To build a 300-350hp motor.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Russ72C10 · 08-30-2002, 09:49 PM

which combo of heads/cam/intake/carb would it take?

I already have a new 600cfm Edelbrock Carb, and a Performer intake. If I were to throw a set of Edelbrock Performer heads into the mix, along with a decent cam..... would that be enough to get a late 70s V8 into the 350hp range?

My goal is to have a truck that's easily drivable, gets okay MPG (12mpg? maybe? lol) can idle in traffic... and is reliable. Preferably could run 14s or faster in the 1/4 (12s are my goal eventually)

Any ideas? I'd love to hear some combos....

And of course, cost IS a factor. I want to spend less than $2000 total for a SOLID setup of 350hp or so. The less $$ the better though!

I'm all ears!

Thanks guys!

Blue_71 · 08-30-2002, 10:16 PM

one thing that will help, keep the quench distance at .35"
http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm
^for mor einfo on this

to keep in your budget, i would say vortecs would be about the best choice for heads, which will require a different intake. maybe some flat tops and MAYBE bore, depending on how out of round the original bore is. cam selection is very important, but im not good at picking cams so i can thelp there.. if you dont already have it, HEI will help some i think..

but, thats just my opinion, others on here will be able to help better

bbs1965 · 08-30-2002, 10:37 PM

shortblock
they cost $300 for an assembled rebuilt 350 short block here
add $15 brass freeze plugs
add $60 for hi vol oil pump screen and steel shaft
add $30 for pc lifters
request 69 flat top 4 valve relief pistons = no extra charge
double chain $25
gasket set $30
oil and filter $10
paint $5
reuse old cover and pan
1 gallon diesel before i paint $1.30
cam = I like 270 comp for street $99
cam #2 = the Erson tq20 is a bad mojo street cam
cam #3 = 280 comp

top half

I would run a nice set of double humps $300 to $400 ready to go
you already have intake
carb is ok I would prefer a holley 650 dp but can make due
I sell hei for $30
headers $85
ultra seal header gaskets $20
plugs cap rotor wires $50
set of long slot rockers $75
push rods $18
reuse old covers and waterneck

If you chose 280 you'll need a stall

boss hogg 3000 around $220

Spend leftover on a 125 NOS setup $400
fuel pump and cell $200
hit it with about 75 hp run it rich when spraying the reason I like 650 double pumper but your 600 will suffice

this setup is about as big as you can go without getting into driveability issues.

just a little over $2000.

Plan B

take $2000 and buy a running 454 and quit wasting time on them 350's

mikep · 08-30-2002, 10:37 PM

Build a motor for reliability. Use 4 bolt mains, balance the assembly, use decent aftermarket or chevy PM rods, forged flattops and a set of good rebuilt heads with a decent cam in the 220 or under duration area. That will keep your cost under $2000 and your fuel mileage at a livable level. THEN buy a big old nitrous tank and let the juice flow at the track. Your bottom end will be up to the task and you won't have to pay out the nose every time you fill up at the gas station. Otherwise you'll never meet your'e goals on your budget. Build for the real world!

bigjimzlll · 08-30-2002, 10:43 PM

Hi..on the quench part..the bare minimum is .035 I would zero deck the block and use a .039 compressed head gasket, or run the standard .020 deck height and use a .018-.020 head gasket. a lot of engine builders suggest a .045 quench

Russ72C10 · 08-31-2002, 12:25 AM

Great info so far, guys! Giving me plenty of ideas... I'm fairly new to the idea of building my own engine, so all the help is appreciated!

Nitrous was actually the way I was leaning. I think it'd be the best way to get the "UMPH" when I wanted it, and to still have a fairly docile V8 that wouldn't keep me in the poor house feeding it at the pump. I'm taking notes on all the little things though....

One other thing I had noticed... I can get a brand new GM Vortec 350 (rated 330hp) for $2100. Considering the cost involved in building up my current shortblock & top-end, or replacing it altogether - do you think the Vortec engine would be a decent "trade-off" per se?

Still taking notes!

TheMattMan · 08-31-2002, 01:31 AM

Or u can just buy a scoggin Dickey 350/350 for 2200 dollars. Not that u shouldn't build your own because its always fun to do...

PanelDeland · 08-31-2002, 08:50 AM

Chevy has a new 383 crate engine.It is about $3800.00. They didn't list a price on the short block.I would check into that, use your existing heads. Then save until you can get a set of edelbrocks or other aluminum heads.With this crate engine and Vortecs they claim around 340 hp I think. This would be a good combo to build to 12's.I think with this short block, a set of decent aluminum heads and your intake and a 650-750 I think you could probably get a street idle and still get into the 12's depending on traction.

08-30-2002, 09:49 PM	#1
Russ72C10 Four Wheeler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 101	To build a 300-350hp motor.... which combo of heads/cam/intake/carb would it take? I already have a new 600cfm Edelbrock Carb, and a Performer intake. If I were to throw a set of Edelbrock Performer heads into the mix, along with a decent cam..... would that be enough to get a late 70s V8 into the 350hp range? My goal is to have a truck that's easily drivable, gets okay MPG (12mpg? maybe? lol) can idle in traffic... and is reliable. Preferably could run 14s or faster in the 1/4 (12s are my goal eventually) Any ideas? I'd love to hear some combos.... And of course, cost IS a factor. I want to spend less than $2000 total for a SOLID setup of 350hp or so. The less $$ the better though! I'm all ears! Thanks guys! __________________ '84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s

08-30-2002, 10:37 PM	#4
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Build a motor for reliability. Use 4 bolt mains, balance the assembly, use decent aftermarket or chevy PM rods, forged flattops and a set of good rebuilt heads with a decent cam in the 220 or under duration area. That will keep your cost under $2000 and your fuel mileage at a livable level. THEN buy a big old nitrous tank and let the juice flow at the track. Your bottom end will be up to the task and you won't have to pay out the nose every time you fill up at the gas station. Otherwise you'll never meet your'e goals on your budget. Build for the real world! __________________ No truck :-(

08-30-2002, 10:43 PM	#5
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	Hi..on the quench part..the bare minimum is .035 I would zero deck the block and use a .039 compressed head gasket, or run the standard .020 deck height and use a .018-.020 head gasket. a lot of engine builders suggest a .045 quench __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

08-31-2002, 12:25 AM	#6
Russ72C10 Four Wheeler Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Decatur, IL Posts: 101	Great info so far, guys! Giving me plenty of ideas... I'm fairly new to the idea of building my own engine, so all the help is appreciated! Nitrous was actually the way I was leaning. I think it'd be the best way to get the "UMPH" when I wanted it, and to still have a fairly docile V8 that wouldn't keep me in the poor house feeding it at the pump. I'm taking notes on all the little things though.... One other thing I had noticed... I can get a brand new GM Vortec 350 (rated 330hp) for $2100. Considering the cost involved in building up my current shortblock & top-end, or replacing it altogether - do you think the Vortec engine would be a decent "trade-off" per se? Still taking notes! __________________ '84 K20 4x4 350 V8 - Weiand intake - Headers - 4" Tuff Country lift - 35x12.50 ProComp M/Ts on 15x10s

08-31-2002, 01:31 AM	#7
TheMattMan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Lumberton, TX , USA Posts: 71	Or u can just buy a scoggin Dickey 350/350 for 2200 dollars. Not that u shouldn't build your own because its always fun to do... __________________ MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB

08-30-2002, 10:37 PM	#3
bbs1965 Open Sundays 10 till 10 Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Waxahachie,Texas 75165 Posts: 1,009	shortblock they cost $300 for an assembled rebuilt 350 short block here add $15 brass freeze plugs add $60 for hi vol oil pump screen and steel shaft add $30 for pc lifters request 69 flat top 4 valve relief pistons = no extra charge double chain $25 gasket set $30 oil and filter $10 paint $5 reuse old cover and pan 1 gallon diesel before i paint $1.30 cam = I like 270 comp for street $99 cam #2 = the Erson tq20 is a bad mojo street cam cam #3 = 280 comp top half I would run a nice set of double humps $300 to $400 ready to go you already have intake carb is ok I would prefer a holley 650 dp but can make due I sell hei for $30 headers $85 ultra seal header gaskets $20 plugs cap rotor wires $50 set of long slot rockers $75 push rods $18 reuse old covers and waterneck If you chose 280 you'll need a stall boss hogg 3000 around $220 Spend leftover on a 125 NOS setup $400 fuel pump and cell $200 hit it with about 75 hp run it rich when spraying the reason I like 650 double pumper but your 600 will suffice this setup is about as big as you can go without getting into driveability issues. just a little over $2000. Plan B take $2000 and buy a running 454 and quit wasting time on them 350's

08-31-2002, 08:50 AM	#8
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Chevy has a new 383 crate engine.It is about $3800.00. They didn't list a price on the short block.I would check into that, use your existing heads. Then save until you can get a set of edelbrocks or other aluminum heads.With this crate engine and Vortecs they claim around 340 hp I think. This would be a good combo to build to 12's.I think with this short block, a set of decent aluminum heads and your intake and a 650-750 I think you could probably get a street idle and still get into the 12's depending on traction. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"



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