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#1 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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rear axle seals......
What do I have to do to replace them? I suppose I should change the bearings while I'm in there...?
Thanks
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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#2 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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bump
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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#3 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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first off, get yourself a GM service manual. It is without a doubt the best tool you can buy.
secondly, this is a quick run down, I may leave something out so see rule one^ jack up rear of truck, put on jack stands. pull tire and drum. remove the 12 bolts that hold your pumpkin on the rear end, drain lube. remove pinion shaft lock bolt, remove the pinion shaft. push the axle in, towards the rearend, remove the C clip. Now you can pull the axle out. now you have access to the seal. pull seal, inspect the bearing for pitting, inspect the axle shaft for excessive wear. re-assemble in the reverse order. It is usually simpler than it sounds. Unless somebody snapped off the pinion shaft lock bolt like they did on one of my trucks.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
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#4 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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Thanks da-burb!!!
I have a service manual but these directions are easier for my simple mind to understand ![]()
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Pixley, Ca.
Posts: 486
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I assume its a 1/2 ton your working on.
1. Jack it up and support it safely. 2. Pull off the tires and wheels. 3. Remove the brake drums. 4. Pop the cover of the rear of the rear end. 5. Take the bolt out of the lock pin slide out the pin and remove the c-clips from the axles. Pull the axles out. 6. If your just going to replace the seals, pry the old seals out. Find a suitable driver and install the new seals. If your going to replace the bearings, I find it easiest to use a long bar and go through the housing and pop the bearings out from the opposite side. Don't worry about removing the seals as the bearings will take them out. Very easy to do this way. 7. I usually use the old bearing race to tap the new bearings into the housing then use a big 3/4 drive socket to seat the bearings into the housing. 8. Reassemble. Should take about 2 quarts of gear oil. Be careful with the seals as they bend easily. Lube the lip of the seal before you put in the axles. Check the axles for wear and if there is a groove where the bearing rides check for axle saver bearing kits. A little pricey, but cheeper than new axles. If you haven't done this before make a mental note on how far the bearings and seal fit into the housing. Hope this helps and good luck.
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69 C-10 CST Short Fleet, Factory Air, BB427-400 Auto-2400 stall-tilt-cruise-Tach & Vac Gagues, 4/6 drop, power one piece side windows, Eaton posi. |
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#6 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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Thanks Jeff!!! I'm getting ready to go out and tear into it.
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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#7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Think about new C-clips...that little piece of metal is all that holds you wheel on.
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#8 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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Are the c-clips a dealer item?
I went today and got everything (seals, bearings, gear oil, posi additive and black rtv) but they didn't have the c-clips. Is there anything else I should replace while I have it tore down?
__________________
'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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#9 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Check the surface the seal mates with. It is probably grooved. If so, get a redi-sleeve, a thin stainless steel tube that slides over the shaft and gives your seal a smooth surface to seal against. Also, check your differential vent, it sticks out the top of the housing. On my 52 it's on the driver's side. Remove and clean it. If the vent's plugged, you will blow out your new seals the first time the gear lube gets warm.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. ![]() |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 23
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Is that what I need to replace too? When I push and pull on my back wheels with it jacked up they move in and out a little bit. This is acompanied by a clicking sound.
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#11 |
Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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I hope a little side to side movement in the axle is normal 'cause mine does it too.
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'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American ![]() |
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