Holley 600 Rebuild / Overhaul

[rage'nrat638]

WELCOME TO HOLLEY REBUILD DAY
I HAVE IN FRONT OF ME A 600 HOLLEY CARB W/ELECTRIC CHOKE, MOST ADVANCE AUTO STORES STOCK REBUILD KITS FOR THIS CARB.
A FEW ITEMS NEEDED TO DO THE JOB
HOLLEY REBUILD KIT
COMPRESSED AIR
GASKET REMOVER
GUNK HYDRO SEAL PARTS CLEANER
LIGHT OIL
CLEANING BRUSH'S
5/8 WRENCH
1" WRENCH
5/16 NUT DRIVER
CARB STAND --- MAKES JOB A SNAP
FRISBEE --- PARTS TRAY
CLEANING TUB
WATER
CLEAN WORKING AREA

Here we are going to start by removing the front bowl. this is the one with the banjo fuel fitting attached, and accelerator pump. you can see that the old gasket was cut/torn misaligned, and that it had been leaking.
start putting your parts removed in your parts tray

[rage'nrat638]

#2 NEXT WE CONTINUE GOING IN
this is the primary metering block, it has your power valve and two fuel jets attached.
be carefull not to break off the alignment tabs, these love to be stuck to the front of the carb body.
HERE you can see the fuel tranfer tube with the sealing rubbers on each end.

i also included a picture of the gasket remover .. good luck finding this stuff.

you can see how the gaskets love to stick every where.

USE YOUR GASKET REMOVER

[rage'nrat638]

#3 MOVING ON
here we have the back side of the metering block, i can't stress enough how important this gasket remover is for holley carbs. if you try scraping this gasket crap off you will load up all the little passages with paper. and all of this stuff will be floating in your parts cleaner moving to every part your trying to clean.

i will spray the old gasket with the remover and set aside to sit.

NOTICE your fuel mixture screws here on each end of the metering block

in the last picture i moved a head and removed the rear bowl. while you were not looking..

that is the rear metering plate.

USE YOU GASKET REMOVER !!!!!

[rage'nrat638]

#4 THIS IS THE REAR BOWL REMOVED.
here you can see the rear bowl removed, and the secondary metering plate exposed.
HERE AGAIN..
be very carefull not to break off the alignment tabs on this plate.
you can see how the rear bowl gasket was cut/torn at the top from over tighting and caused leaking.

this is where looking at your instructions come's in handy to know if your missing any parts. i will be adding a second plate to this set-up on reinstall.

use your gasket remover !!!!!!!

[rage'nrat638]

#5 FLIP THIS BABY OVER

This is the bottom plate. remove all the screws and put them in your parts tray.
you need to remove the vacuum secondary diaphragm rod from the base plate to remove the bottom plate.

heres a picture of the best cleaner i have ever found it's 26.00 a gallon and worth every penny.
as you can see from the container i keep some around.

USE YOUR GASKET REMOVER

[rage'nrat638]

#6 LETS START CLEANING
heres my drain pan converted into my cleaning pan...

you can see at the cost of my favorite parts cleaner i am not going to waste it..
i pour a little in the bottom of the pan and move it around with my soft brush.
i clean the day lights out of every part on this thing.
next to me i have a 5 gallon bucket of water, that i did not show. i don't even have to get-up bad back you know. so as i clean each part i wash it off in the water, and blow dry with my compressed air

THE KEY TO ANY CARB JOB

is a clean working area, and compressed air, use you eyes here. blow out every little passage. here in the 2nd to the last picture i point out a little ball check valve made into the plate. how could you clean that out with out compressed air? spray carb cleaner..maybe !!!

hand towel dry all parts and set aside

[rage'nrat638]

#1
very important that both floats be in the middle of there adjustment.
you will see the picture where i bench set the floats level, bowls upside down. you need to bend the float around until the needle and set are in the middle of its adjustment and the floats are level.

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#2
all ways remove the power valve(s) and jets then...
all the passages must be blown out with compressed air.
if you blow compressed air into each passage, you can tell where the air come's out. or might not be if plugged
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#3
i always use the gasket remover to keep from scraping the gaskets off, making tons of paper shavings that fall into the fuel and vacuum passages.
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#4
make sure your power valve gasket is centered around the valve when you tighten it down.

#5
make sure your pump squirter nozzle has a top and bottom gasket.

#6 the rear metering plate. did it have a spacer plate and thin gasket? i have seen where the big bowl gasket pushes into the passages. with out the spacer plate and thin gasket.

I ADDED THE THIN PLATE AND GASKET TO THIS CARB.
YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BIG BLUE BOWL GASKET SQUEEZED INTO THE METERING PLATE PASSAGES. WITHOUT THE SPACER PLATE USED. YOU CAN SEE HOW MUCH FLOW GETS EFFECTED

hope this helps your pal mark

THANKS GUY'S FOR YOUR COMMITS GLAD TO BE OF HELP. NOTHING BETTER THAN TO THINK I MADE A DIFFERENCE IN SOMEONES LIFE