Where could i find a Turbo that attaches on to your muffler...

[corkscrew]

I saw one on TV the other day and am very interested...thanks for your help

[neonlarry]

here is one place:
http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_system

[corkscrew]

Anywhere else guys?

[N2TRUX]

Contact forum member Capt Kaos. Chris is a dealer for the one above...

[dogfishguzzler]

Im interested in seeing this forum play out; being ignorant in such matters it seems to me "how do you suck instead of blow?" would you need a new cam to have an "exhaust turbo" seems to me that you would but my knowledge is limited.

[Longhorn Man]

Turbos are run by the exhaust, with the exception of some new belt driven turbo...which is basicly a supercharger then.
These being discussed here are just mounted under the vehicle instead of right off the exhaust manifold.
If you have room under hood for a traditional turbo, then there is pretty much no advantage to this under body type.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

the turbo style ones run by the belt are prochargers and are a mix of a supercharger in the turbo form and as far as the turbos under the car or at the back you will have more lag vs being under the hood and closer end result is the less lag the sooner the power hits

[msgross]

Originally Posted by GREASEMONKEY72

the turbo style ones run by the belt are prochargers and are a mix of a supercharger in the turbo form and as far as the turbos under the car or at the back you will have more lag vs being under the hood and closer end result is the less lag the sooner the power hits

I saw the guys on "horsepower TV" do this to a Corvette. Longhorn man is right on when he said that room under the hood is the main reason for this. As for Lag, they said it wasn't that noticeable but the benefit came from cooler boosted air since it had to travel the length of the car to enter the engine. Cooler air is denser air = more good! The car sounded like a jet with twin exhaust turbos screeming...

[russellmarling]

I read a review (In Chevy High Performance Magazine I think) on the STS turbo setup on a 4th gen Camaro. It performed great except in the rain. They said the car ran rough when it was wet because the air filter was so exposed. This would be a major concern on a daily driver. If you plan on driving in heavy rain don't use one.

[pharcydekm]

Originally Posted by russellmarling

I read a review (In Chevy High Performance Magazine I think) on the STS turbo setup on a 4th gen Camaro. It performed great except in the rain. They said the car ran rough when it was wet because the air filter was so exposed. This would be a major concern on a daily driver. If you plan on driving in heavy rain don't use one.

Great point!!
This is exactley why this board kicks *ss!!!

[Longhorn Man]

and less boost period since the exhaust has cooled quite a bit and has less force to it. More high pressure compressed air leaks, esp in the cold weather too

[Pl4yboy]

Yeah you can only run 6-8 #'s of boost on these...

[pharcydekm]

Now I speak from zero experience with these turbos but... You can run up to 15psi of boost and from what I have heard the lag is not an issue. I too would like to see how this thread goes and would love to hear someone chime in that has used one or at least been in or seen a vehicle with one.
I saw an episode of Horsepower TV that they intalled one on a C5 Corvette. It looked awesome!!!

They are still very new so I can see how people would be cautious on throwing down the cash for it.

[jeffspower]

It seems like a lot of money for the "universal system" from STS. $3k gets you a run of the mill diesel truck turbo, a pop- off valve & trinkets, an oil scavanging pump that can be bought here http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm for $530 (which includes the "super" pump & check valves). Sure, the trinkets add up, but not that much. Buy the oil pump from RBR, pick up a turbo from a diesel shop, get the pop-off on ebay, have your oil lines made locally, buy a power relay & make the simple wiring yourself. I think all this could be bought for under $1500. Then the $1500 you saved can be used for the exhaust work/ mounting & air piping.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by pharcydekm

Now I speak from zero experience with these turbos but... You can run up to 15psi of boost and from what I have heard the lag is not an issue. I too would like to see how this thread goes and would love to hear someone chime in that has used one or at least been in or seen a vehicle with one.
I saw an episode of Horsepower TV that they intalled one on a C5 Corvette. It looked awesome!!!

They are still very new so I can see how people would be cautious on throwing down the cash for it.

IMO, the lag is going to be increased with the turbo back that far. You have the intake at the rear now and you are going to pressurize the pipe that runs all the way back to your carb/throttle body. The shorter that plumbing is the better, plus it will be less prone to boost leaks.
s/t

[pharcydekm]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

IMO, the lag is going to be increased with the turbo back that far. You have the intake at the rear now and you are going to pressurize the pipe that runs all the way back to your carb/throttle body. The shorter that plumbing is the better, plus it will be less prone to boost leaks.
s/t

Agreed on the longer pipe more chance for leaks sid eof it. But... on the boost once the pressure is there it is there. In my mind it would be like an air hose connected to an air compressor if it is 100psi 2" from the compressor it is going to be 100psi 10' from the compressor.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by pharcydekm

Agreed on the longer pipe more chance for leaks sid eof it. But... on the boost once the pressure is there it is there. In my mind it would be like an air hose connected to an air compressor if it is 100psi 2" from the compressor it is going to be 100psi 10' from the compressor.

Let me try to explain my theory of a long intake. The turbo can make say 10 lb of boost. You are trying to create this boost as fast as possible (to eliminate lag), so if your intake plumbing is 3” ID pipe 10’ long it will take more volume of air to pressurize it to 10lb than if it were 1” ID. If the pipe is smaller, then the boost will increase faster.

Your air compressor theory~ yes, it’s 100 psi but no volume. If it’s all about pressure only then we could run compressed air in a tank & a 3/8in line to our intake.

I’m not trying to knock this turbo, just voicing my opinion/concern. I’m sure they have it figured out to make it efficient as possible; I think the lag is going to be huge.
This depends on pipe size (I’m not sure what the intake pipe size is).
I do agree it would get cooler air which is a good thing. Also the problem mentioned with water would be an issue, but on a truck we could plumb the intake filter though the bed of the truck (and shorten the intake as far as that goes).
s/t

[Senator350]

OK.
I actually HAVE a remote mounted turbo on one of my cars.
(it's on my '93 Mazda 626... It's HIGHLY modified, including an imported high compression motor, and custom one-off racing parts)

AND i actually have a '70 Chevy pickup. SO, i think i might be the only one here qualified to give advice. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but you always have to <i>consider the source</i>.

(A great line to remember when posting the "Pro's" of the remote mount turbo, taken directly from STS web site. )

Before i start dishing information, i need to correct your question... you ask about a turbo to put ON your muffler. When you remote mount a turbo, you actually REMOVE your muffler, and put the turbo where your muffler was.

typically, the most modern turbos have been made to all but eliminate turbo lag... it's virtually a thing of the past. In 99% of remote mount turbo setups, you will use the exact same turbo that would come in an underhood-kit for your vehicle. Your engines displacement dictates which turbo to use, not where you're putting the turbo.

You should really have headers, a high-flow cat converter, and mandrel bent exhaust piping before you start thinking about remote mounting... if you have restrictions before the turbo, your performance is going to SUFFER.
once you have a high-flow exhaust like that, you just get a weld-on flange, in the correct inner diameter, with the correct bolting pattern for your turbo.
simply welding on that flange, where your muffler used to be, in the right position to place your turbo, intake filter, and return plumbing in the right place will take some precise measuring.

After you have the turbo mounted, you need a mandrel bent intake plumbed back under the hood. This is actually where some headache comes into play... IF you have room to run intake plumbing... AND you relocated your battery out of the engine bay... you probably had room to run a turbo under the hood... and you could have spared yourself the headache of the steps i'm about to outline.

you have spent, so far
$ headers, $ cat converter, $ mandrel bent exhaust, $ flange, $ mandrel bent intake, $ turbo, $welding and installation (?)

more fun steps, once you have the turbo where you want it...

1. Plumbing your turbo's oil supply AND return. keep in mind, if this hose ever get's hurt, you're going to pay DEARLY. This means you have to get the right fittings, and either drill a supply in your pan, running a sump, or using a sandwich filter with provisions for an oil cooler.

2. Plan on how you are going to USE that new forced air... you are going to need more fuel... and you are going to want turbo-cams. So, now you are going to need to upgrade your injectors and fuel pump, or re-jet your carb, pressurize your fuel bowls, and seal your carburetor.
Either way you supply your fuel, you need to spend some SERIOUS time tuning your air/fuel ratio... if you don't, plan on melting your engine.

you just bought
$ either injectors or carb modifications, $ fuel pump, $ AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator), $ Cams, $ TUNING, $ TUNING, $TUNING

3. Now, you just made a very nice working Forced Induction system! Congratulations... but... ummmm.... what about your engine internals? Is your compression ratio OK? (8:1-9:1 is considered safe) How old are those small block rods?!?!? Is your SBC already burning oil?!?!

Bottom line... If you want to run FI safely, you need to build your engine specifically for that purpose. THEN and ONLY then should you think about "bolting a turbo onto your muffler".

OK...
The Pro's:

1. <font color=red>allows forced induction when there is no room under the hood</font>

2. no need for an intercooler, because the intake piping length dispells close to as much heat as a top or side mount intercooler.

3. Stealth / sleeper appeal


The Con's:

1. No support from a company supplying a kit

2. Room for intake piping

3. LOUD sound.. displeasing to a lot of people


<font color=blue><B><Center>Basically, there's NO REASON for doing this, other than NO room under the hood... and like i said, if you are going to run intake piping, you could probably relocate your battery and have room for a kit that comes with lots of R&D, company support, and a return policy should things not fit.<p>

it's a long, long long long long, road. fare the well, brave lad.

[Pl4yboy]

Maybe I'm wrong about the boost. But I did hear that somewhere.

[special-K]

Is there a slight chance water might find it`s way into the filter on the red car???
With these under body turbos,what about wastegate controllers?Under the hood they have problems hanging up,already.I can imagine road grime,oil,and corrosion would surely play havoc on this component.

[special-K]

Cooler air is a good thing.That`s why there`s intercoolers.Cooler charge air allows higher boost with tolerable EGTs.Longer tubing does not effect charge air pressure.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

cooler air also makes more HP, but IMO theres just alot more risk just driving normaly on the street with the turbo sitting under the car and the airfilter being right there next to the road plus i mean come on it looks so much cooler sitting under the hood

[N2TRUX]

Maybe this will answer some of your questions and minimize the speculation.-

Benefits of Remote Mounting



Ease of installation. STS turbo systems can be installed in about 8 hours with standard tools and average mechanical ability.

Performance Sound. The turbo acts as a muffler and sounds like an aftermarket performance muffler. Turbo spool and rushing air from the blow-off valve make a unique sound that will turn heads!

No need for major modifications to your vehicle. STS systems are designed to "bolt-on" to factory mounts.

Increased gas mileage. Unlike a belt driven supercharger, the turbo utilizes "wasted" energy leaving your tailpipe. Most of our customers get 1-3 mpg increase in gas mileage.

Lower underhood temperatures. No need to worry about melting wires, hoses, or other components.

Converts back to stock in about an hour.

More room under the hood. Future repair work or modifications will not require the expense of removing the turbo system to allow access to engine components.

Cooler oil to the turbo. Cool oil is better for both the turbo and engine.

Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.

Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently.

Built-in intercooling. Intake piping provides ~50% intercooler efficiency. There is no need for the expense, pressure drop, and installation problems associated with a front mounted intercooler.

Turbo is exposed to ambient air rather than underhood air. Allows for better cooling of turbo components.

No need for expensive headers, mufflers, or exhaust systems.

Turbo is closer to the tail pipe outlet. Provides a better pressure differential across the turbine wheel which promotes better flow across turbine.

Better weight transfer. Increases traction because the bulk of system is mounted in rear of vehicle rather than up front.

Less noise in the passenger compartment.

[special-K]

Sorry N2TRUX,that sounds like a bunch of sales b.s. to me.A few possible pluses,none to outweight the minuses IMO.

"Better weight transfer?"About like sitting a 12-pack on the passenger floor.
"Increased gas mileage?"They only compare it to a belt system.

Just a sample

[N2TRUX]

It may be sales hype BS, but at least it's coming from someone that knows the system, and not a bunch of " I heard from a friend" speculation. Or "buy all the parts and build it yourself".

I have my concerns over this system too, but it does produce results. On an older car or truck, there isn't as much advantage since space under the hood is not a real concern.

On a late model car or truck where space under the hood is a major issue, this system has huge advantages. Yes, there may be some trade offs but the benefits "appear" to out weigh the trade offs.