My Disc Install - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 01:58 AM

Ok guys, I did a front disc upgrade on my 69 C10, was not that bad for my first time. Bought my parts from Kragen (california) Parts America or CKS in other states.
Did I save money? Yes and No. Looking back had I bought everything from CPP Classic Performance Products besides my susspension kit, I would have been better off.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 02:10 AM

I paid 391.00 for rotors, calipers, brake lines, outer tie rods, pads, inner and outer bearings, upper and lower ball joints. Went to CPP and paid 690 for the deluxe drop kit, front and rear sway-bars, front and rear coils, shocks, rear shock mounts and track bar and hardware. Had to go back to CPP 3 times so far. Needed tie rod sleeve, it fits 73 outer tie rods and up to 1970 inner tie rods. The catch, their custom sleeve is left hand thread, so yes my second trip I got there inner tie rods. Had been back to Kragen for inner and took them back. Also, to get the Kragen prices, I had to print out the online prices, then take the page to the store. That way the price online is honnored.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 02:18 AM

The problem with putting something like this together is everything does not always fit. Thus why its called a project. The paint on my caliper is becaue when I put my rims on, the rubbed against the calipers so I had to grind them down, the ears and part of the body.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 02:37 AM

I forgot to mention, the brake hoses, the driver side fit my brake line, the passenger side was bigger. I went back to Kragen, re-ordered the line, same size came back, different box. The fix was a reducer that fit the large end and the small end of my brake line. That was the cheapest thing I bought,...$4.30.
Now I've started on the back, got one coil (4 inch drop) in. Tried to take the axels out. After removing the cover I turn the screw that holds the pin in only to find out its broke. I was told that I have to hit the pin with something to break the holding screw and force it out. You can see where I have been hitting the pin. Anyone have any other ideas on how to do this??

My other option is go and get the whole rear end wheels and all of a 73 truck

prostreet1967 · 04-17-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDOG

I forgot to mention, the brake hoses, the driver side fit my brake line, the passenger side was bigger. I went back to Kragen, re-ordered the line, same size came back, different box. The fix was a reducer that fit the large end and the small end of my brake line. That was the cheapest thing I bought,...$4.30.
Now I've started on the back, got one coil (4 inch drop) in. Tried to take the axels out. After removing the cover I turn the screw that holds the pin in only to find out its broke. I was told that I have to hit the pin with something to break the holding screw and force it out. You can see where I have been hitting the pin. Anyone have any other ideas on how to do this??

My other option is go and get the whole rear end wheels and all of a 73 truck

ive ran into this problem more times than i care to rember before i found out how to do it i beat it out cut it out sometimes u can get lucky and use a pic to try to spin it out most of the time its only held by a half a thread anyways i bought a tool from a local shop here in fort worth for 30 bucks and i have made my mney back hundreds of times here in fort worth theres a place that specializes in differentials the kit includes a bolt thats drilled in the center just screw it in the differential and i wedges against the old bolt to keep it from spinning then the kit has a drill bit about 12 inches its a 7/64 bit after drilling use the supplied extractor and it will come out with your fingers. takes about 10 min after breaking the bolt

VDOG · 04-17-2007, 08:16 PM

I was told a diamond tip drill bit is what I need to get the bolt out.
Whatever I can find, im tired of trying to beat it out, arms are sore now. Last option is to visit the wrecking yard and grab a 73 or later rear end with the wheels on it.

SCOTI · 04-17-2007, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDOG

.... Went to CPP..... rear shock mounts and track bar and hardware.

Did you get the delux track bar kit or just the adjustable bar that mounts @ the top of the differential like stock?

If it's the delux kit, any chance of pics of the brackets (installed or not, doesn't matter.... just trying to decipher some confusing info).

VDOG · 04-18-2007, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Did you get the delux track bar kit or just the adjustable bar that mounts @ the top of the differential like stock?

If it's the delux kit, any chance of pics of the brackets (installed or not, doesn't matter.... just trying to decipher some confusing info).

My original track bar is out right now, and I have not installed the new one yet. I bought the deluxe kit with the front and back sway bars. I will get you a few pics within the hour.

sjarrett71 · 04-15-2007, 02:18 AM

Good work and nice pics. Seems wierd seeing disk brakes on a 69

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

Good work and nice pics. Seems wierd seeing disk brakes on a 69

I was actually just changing the wheel cylnders, but when i got to the fron driver side, I could not get the bolt out and had to take the whole spindle off and go to my friends hop to remove it. After damaging the 37 year old ball joints, I figured it was time for the upgrade.

sjarrett71 · 04-15-2007, 02:44 AM

I've taken a few axles out but never had that problem. I'd probably just say screw it and replace the whole thing if I had one available.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

I've taken a few axles out but never had that problem. I'd probably just say screw it and replace the whole thing if I had one available.

Thats probably whats going to happen. I promise the wife I would not work on the truck tomorrow.
I think she is going to just have to be mad at me. LOL

sjarrett71 · 04-15-2007, 02:54 AM

You won't be alone. I'm sure mine will be mad at me for some reason also.

AR15DEFENSE · 04-15-2007, 03:07 AM

when they told you to hit the pin they did'n mean the shaft between the axles. you need to get the rest of the bolt out, (thats holding that shaft in) then slide out the shaft between the axles. happens frequently.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR15DEFENSE

when they told you to hit the pin they did'n mean the shaft between the axles. you need to get the rest of the bolt out, (thats holding that shaft in) then slide out the shaft between the axles. happens frequently.

Yes thats exactly what I was told. I just dont have enough room to swing.
Its getting close, I can see the pin moving, its just going to take me a little longer than I had planned.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR15DEFENSE

when they told you to hit the pin they did'n mean the shaft between the axles. you need to get the rest of the bolt out, (thats holding that shaft in) then slide out the shaft between the axles. happens frequently.

Yes thats exactly what I was told. I just dont have enough room to swing.
Its getting close, I can see the pin moving, its just going to take me a little longer than I had planned.

AR15DEFENSE · 04-15-2007, 03:09 AM

ps, replace that shaft once you get it out, and make sure you get all metal shavings outta there

AR15DEFENSE · 04-15-2007, 03:26 AM

depending on where the bolt broke at, most times you can shoot compressed air into the hole and the rest will come out. you can also use a small magnet, or an easy out. I have seen this dozens of times in the past ten years, and have fixed them all without hammering on that shaft.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 03:33 AM

The bolt broke with thread still on it. So I probably do need and easy out because im beating the heck out it.

Tx Firefighter · 04-15-2007, 06:56 AM

Usually, they break with about 1 thread left on the little bolt. A lot of times, you can take a small pick and stick it down the hole and turn the remainder of the bolt out. They are usualy loose, but they break for some reason. We had this happen a lot on the trucks when I worked for the Postal Service fixing their trucks.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Usually, they break with about 1 thread left on the little bolt. A lot of times, you can take a small pick and stick it down the hole and turn the remainder of the bolt out.

Maybe I will try that. The hammering of the pin is not working for me. If it was on a hoist then maybe. Then I have to start on the body.
Man I love these trucks!!!!

69_hafton · 04-15-2007, 01:15 PM

Despite only wanting to replace wheel cylinders, you went with 5 lug rotors in the front, I'm guessing you'd want to do the same in the rear? If so, you're looking at aftermarket axles with the rear you've got, and at this point would be better off with a 71-72 rear coil spring 12 bolt axle, IMHO. Note: I don't know what a '73 rear would involve.

VDOG · 04-15-2007, 01:38 PM

I had planned on changing over to disc this summer, but after I took the spindle apart, it did not make sense to replace the 1969 upper and lower ball joints when I had plans to upgrade in a few months. The only problem with replacing the rear with a 71 or 72 model is they are hard to find or have been stripped clean. It would take me weeks and to search wrecking yards every day to find one. 73-87 is the rotors and calipers that are sold to us by different companies, they just put it together for us to make it easy.

c10crazy · 04-15-2007, 01:32 PM

Nice progress there!

jlaird · 04-15-2007, 06:25 PM

VDOG, can you say again what year inner tie rods you used. In the one of the brake FAQ's someone said the following:

"The sleeve your talking about from CCP allows you you to use 73-87 spindle in 67-72 trucks( Ball joint's must be 73-87) 73-87 outer tie rods and 67-70 outer tie rod for use on the inner is the set-up you will need to use Trust ME."

Is this what you did?

04-15-2007, 01:58 AM	#1
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	My Disc Install Ok guys, I did a front disc upgrade on my 69 C10, was not that bad for my first time. Bought my parts from Kragen (california) Parts America or CKS in other states. Did I save money? Yes and No. Looking back had I bought everything from CPP Classic Performance Products besides my susspension kit, I would have been better off. Attached Images

04-15-2007, 02:10 AM	#2
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install I paid 391.00 for rotors, calipers, brake lines, outer tie rods, pads, inner and outer bearings, upper and lower ball joints. Went to CPP and paid 690 for the deluxe drop kit, front and rear sway-bars, front and rear coils, shocks, rear shock mounts and track bar and hardware. Had to go back to CPP 3 times so far. Needed tie rod sleeve, it fits 73 outer tie rods and up to 1970 inner tie rods. The catch, their custom sleeve is left hand thread, so yes my second trip I got there inner tie rods. Had been back to Kragen for inner and took them back. Also, to get the Kragen prices, I had to print out the online prices, then take the page to the store. That way the price online is honnored. Attached Images

04-15-2007, 02:18 AM	#3
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install The problem with putting something like this together is everything does not always fit. Thus why its called a project. The paint on my caliper is becaue when I put my rims on, the rubbed against the calipers so I had to grind them down, the ears and part of the body. Attached Images

04-15-2007, 02:37 AM	#4
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install I forgot to mention, the brake hoses, the driver side fit my brake line, the passenger side was bigger. I went back to Kragen, re-ordered the line, same size came back, different box. The fix was a reducer that fit the large end and the small end of my brake line. That was the cheapest thing I bought,...$4.30. Now I've started on the back, got one coil (4 inch drop) in. Tried to take the axels out. After removing the cover I turn the screw that holds the pin in only to find out its broke. I was told that I have to hit the pin with something to break the holding screw and force it out. You can see where I have been hitting the pin. Anyone have any other ideas on how to do this?? My other option is go and get the whole rear end wheels and all of a 73 truck Attached Images

04-17-2007, 08:16 PM	#6
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install I was told a diamond tip drill bit is what I need to get the bolt out. Whatever I can find, im tired of trying to beat it out, arms are sore now. Last option is to visit the wrecking yard and grab a 73 or later rear end with the wheels on it.

04-15-2007, 02:18 AM	#9
sjarrett71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolla, MO Posts: 2,463	Re: My Disc Install Good work and nice pics. Seems wierd seeing disk brakes on a 69 __________________ -Scott-

04-15-2007, 02:44 AM	#11
sjarrett71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolla, MO Posts: 2,463	Re: My Disc Install I've taken a few axles out but never had that problem. I'd probably just say screw it and replace the whole thing if I had one available. __________________ -Scott-

04-15-2007, 02:54 AM	#13
sjarrett71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rolla, MO Posts: 2,463	Re: My Disc Install You won't be alone. I'm sure mine will be mad at me for some reason also. __________________ -Scott-

04-15-2007, 03:07 AM	#14
AR15DEFENSE Resident Absorber Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: WI Posts: 131	Re: My Disc Install when they told you to hit the pin they did'n mean the shaft between the axles. you need to get the rest of the bolt out, (thats holding that shaft in) then slide out the shaft between the axles. happens frequently. __________________ The best offense is a better DEFENSE!

04-15-2007, 03:09 AM	#17
AR15DEFENSE Resident Absorber Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: WI Posts: 131	Re: My Disc Install ps, replace that shaft once you get it out, and make sure you get all metal shavings outta there __________________ The best offense is a better DEFENSE!

04-15-2007, 03:26 AM	#18
AR15DEFENSE Resident Absorber Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: WI Posts: 131	Re: My Disc Install depending on where the bolt broke at, most times you can shoot compressed air into the hole and the rest will come out. you can also use a small magnet, or an easy out. I have seen this dozens of times in the past ten years, and have fixed them all without hammering on that shaft. __________________ The best offense is a better DEFENSE!

04-15-2007, 03:33 AM	#19
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install The bolt broke with thread still on it. So I probably do need and easy out because im beating the heck out it.

04-15-2007, 06:56 AM	#20
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: My Disc Install Usually, they break with about 1 thread left on the little bolt. A lot of times, you can take a small pick and stick it down the hole and turn the remainder of the bolt out. They are usualy loose, but they break for some reason. We had this happen a lot on the trucks when I worked for the Postal Service fixing their trucks. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

04-15-2007, 01:15 PM	#22
69_hafton Sleep-Deprived Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 445	Re: My Disc Install Despite only wanting to replace wheel cylinders, you went with 5 lug rotors in the front, I'm guessing you'd want to do the same in the rear? If so, you're looking at aftermarket axles with the rear you've got, and at this point would be better off with a 71-72 rear coil spring 12 bolt axle, IMHO. Note: I don't know what a '73 rear would involve. __________________ 1971 K/10 Long Fleetside 350/350 - 6" Lift 1969 C/10 SWB 292 - Sold It

04-15-2007, 01:38 PM	#23
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: My Disc Install I had planned on changing over to disc this summer, but after I took the spindle apart, it did not make sense to replace the 1969 upper and lower ball joints when I had plans to upgrade in a few months. The only problem with replacing the rear with a 71 or 72 model is they are hard to find or have been stripped clean. It would take me weeks and to search wrecking yards every day to find one. 73-87 is the rotors and calipers that are sold to us by different companies, they just put it together for us to make it easy.



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04-15-2007, 01:32 PM	#24
c10crazy Like a Rock! Join Date: May 2002 Location: USA Posts: 1,092	Re: My Disc Install Nice progress there! __________________ 69 LWB Runs great - work in progress Mess with me and you mess with the whole trailer park!

04-15-2007, 06:25 PM	#25
jlaird Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: johnstown, NY Posts: 2,393	Re: My Disc Install VDOG, can you say again what year inner tie rods you used. In the one of the brake FAQ's someone said the following: "The sleeve your talking about from CCP allows you you to use 73-87 spindle in 67-72 trucks( Ball joint's must be 73-87) 73-87 outer tie rods and 67-70 outer tie rod for use on the inner is the set-up you will need to use Trust ME." Is this what you did?

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