Bed Wood - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

manimal · 04-23-2007, 02:02 PM

Anybody using anything other than pine or oak in their beds? can you post pics? I have a friend thats a cabinet maker and suggested Mahogony. Isnt that a hard wood also?Thanks in advance.
-Lance

ToddSS · 04-23-2007, 02:08 PM

White ash will save you about $80 or so over the cost of oak and looks pretty similar and is very hard.

Here are a couple of pics. One showing the wood with the stain and without and of the finished product.

manimal · 04-23-2007, 02:12 PM

WOW!! Looks great!

shifty · 04-23-2007, 02:18 PM

This is one of those times when the search feature at the forum is your friend.

Here, I searched for 'wood varnish' and pulled up these threads:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish

I'm sure there are plenty of others that could be found using a different search term like 'wood strips' or 'wood plank' (search doesn't work on 3-letter words, so 'bed' won't get you anything).

cdowns · 04-23-2007, 02:36 PM

mahogany is considered a soft wood a bit harder than most pine alot softer than most oaks// it could be used for a bed floor and would look good on a lightly used truck but wont hold up to severe work conditions

KAILUAZ · 04-23-2007, 05:26 PM

I have plywood,, I dont think you need any pics hahaha

shifty · 04-23-2007, 05:36 PM

I bet your plywood looks better than the rotten ass pine that the PO left on my truck.

Worst part is, he just threw planks of wood on the damned thing - didn't even notch the boards properly - and redrilled all of the damned bed supports so now they look like freaking swiss cheese. It's my one major gripe about the work he did to the truck.

blukangoo · 04-23-2007, 05:51 PM

As soon as I get to my bed I will be installing Ash.
I work in a carpenter shop here in Germany and the structure of the Ash is my favorite.
I was thinking about being different and using Hard Maple but my "brothers" said go with the Ash.

Olden Days · 04-24-2007, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blukangoo

As soon as I get to my bed I will be installing Ash.
I work in a carpenter shop here in Germany and the structure of the Ash is my favorite.
I was thinking about being different and using Hard Maple but my "brothers" said go with the Ash.

The Ash is a good choice, but birds eye maple would look killer!!

dave-68 · 04-23-2007, 07:57 PM

Has anyone used cypress? It doesn't rot. I e-mailed Horkey's to see if he does it but didn't get a response back. I'll probably make the boards myself, I just wasn't sure about the mounting holes. GMCPauls website says to drill the thru hole on center of the washer hole, but that didn't make sense to me if you're supposed to use the eccentric washers?

355 · 04-23-2007, 08:58 PM

I used Poplar. It stains real nice, has a fair grain, has lasted thru a winter of firewood, cinder block, etc and does not rot. I drilled the main frame holes straight and used carraige bolts with no problem. steve

wyatt earp · 04-23-2007, 09:11 PM

has any one thought of using osage orange? its a tightly grained hard wood here in ohio, has a really nice yellow/orange color(hence the name) when naturally finished. only problem is finding a tree that is straight for more than 6-8 ft, they are normally pretty gnarley. i have seen some archery bow makers use this wood and it sands and finishes great for them. also looks fantastic alternated with black walnut. now that i've said it i think i may have to try it on the '72swb.

Bus Ted Knuckle · 04-24-2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wyatt earp

has any one thought of using osage orange? its a tightly grained hard wood here in ohio, has a really nice yellow/orange color(hence the name) when naturally finished. only problem is finding a tree that is straight for more than 6-8 ft, they are normally pretty gnarley. i have seen some archery bow makers use this wood and it sands and finishes great for them. also looks fantastic alternated with black walnut. now that i've said it i think i may have to try it on the '72swb.

If you use Osage Orange, your better cut the tree down, take it straight to the lumber mill, then the planks straight home, mill them, router them, drill them and install them all in about two days or less because once it dries a little it it impossible to work!

rlm316 · 04-24-2007, 12:32 PM

Anyone ever tried teak? Had some 5/4 boards given to me and was thinking of trying them in the bead.

wyatt earp · 04-23-2007, 09:17 PM

oops,just thought of maybe a birdseye or tiger maple, quite pricey but would look awwwwwwsome!!!!!!

bedsled71 · 04-23-2007, 09:45 PM

im using ash for mine..

6977chev · 04-23-2007, 10:08 PM

locust ,cedar, and redwood hold up in weather good. but redwood and cedar are both pretty soft and would ding easily. but i'm not sure what the grain of locust looks like when it sawed in to lumber.

Solver · 04-23-2007, 10:10 PM

I used hickory on my step side. Natural color no stain. Looks alot like oak and seems to wear well

OLDIRON69 · 04-24-2007, 12:39 PM

Hickory is a very nice hardwood and fairly easy to work, Ash as well, Cypress won't rot, Cedar like Western red as well as Aromatic are both soft, I would say too soft. Hickory,Oak,Pecan are all good choices as far as workability and very beautiful wood! Osage Orange is hard as concrete and will outlast the truck, like said above, cut, mill and one important thing..it has to be properly dried or it will be a total loss (this is true on the drying with any wood you use)

stllookn · 04-24-2007, 12:55 PM

Osage orange has one of the highest heating values of any wood at 30,900,000 BTU/cord...great for your wood furnace!

Wood selection and finish really depends upon how you are going to use your truck. Work, show or 100 pt. restoration. If it is a 100 pt. you will have to paint the wood either body color a black. I still need to cut a piece to see what GM used in my Longhorn. Nobody thinks about this but the wood selection should also complement the final color of your truck. I really like the natural color of wood under a bright (clear varnish) finish so hate to stain the wood. Having said that...I have seen some really nice transparent stains that allow the natural beauty of the wood to come through but also give just a hint of the background body color to be used as a complement. Don't be afraid to try something different!

Mrrilla · 04-24-2007, 04:27 PM

I am cutting my own from Black Walnut. Here is a picture after I planned them and cut the width. The grain becomes deeper and overall darkens with Spar Varnish. This is a hard wood also.

faribran · 04-24-2007, 12:47 PM

DAVE-68...
i have used the cypress.... works out pretty good.. it has some small knot holes that come out....the color kinda washed out.. lll try to take some pics..

dave-68 · 04-24-2007, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by faribran

DAVE-68...
i have used the cypress.... works out pretty good.. it has some small knot holes that come out....the color kinda washed out.. lll try to take some pics..

fariban, thanks.

What do you guys know about the mounting holes? Is the c'bore for the washer centered on the thru hole?

kxnomore · 04-24-2007, 10:25 PM

Nope, the washer countersink holes are drilled 3/16 of an inch forward from the center hole.
The idea is you drill a 1/8" hole centered in the cross sill. Then you measure 3/16" forward from that hole and drill (with a 1 5/8" forstner bit) the countersunk hole for the washer. That hole should be 1/8" deep.
Then you go back and drill again the 1/8" center hole (lined up with the cross sill) out to the 3/8" size for the actual bed mount bolt.
I wish I had pictures, but that's the idea.

**John Fabris** · 04-25-2007, 12:50 AM

I used Teak in my truck.

Here is two shot of the wood as I got it.

Three shots of the boards (I already cut them down and ripped the grooves)
during the varnishing stage. I coated them 10 times on each surface with a light sanding inbetween each coat.
NOTE that I only got two knots in the wood, and I used them as the two smallest peices...

And one shot of the wood in the bed on the truck...

04-23-2007, 02:02 PM	#1
manimal Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Southern Kalifornia Posts: 3,066	Bed Wood Anybody using anything other than pine or oak in their beds? can you post pics? I have a friend thats a cabinet maker and suggested Mahogony. Isnt that a hard wood also?Thanks in advance. -Lance __________________ ------------------------------------------------------ -Lance 2000 Chevy C2500, 5.7, 4L80e 1999 Suburban K2500, 7.4, 4L80e 1980 Camaro..son's car...PROJECT

04-23-2007, 02:08 PM	#2
ToddSS Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 28	Re: Bed Wood White ash will save you about $80 or so over the cost of oak and looks pretty similar and is very hard. Here are a couple of pics. One showing the wood with the stain and without and of the finished product. Attached Images __________________ 1968 C10 SWB

04-23-2007, 02:12 PM	#3
manimal Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Southern Kalifornia Posts: 3,066	Re: Bed Wood WOW!! Looks great! __________________ ------------------------------------------------------ -Lance 2000 Chevy C2500, 5.7, 4L80e 1999 Suburban K2500, 7.4, 4L80e 1980 Camaro..son's car...PROJECT

04-23-2007, 02:18 PM	#4
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Re: Bed Wood This is one of those times when the search feature at the forum is your friend. Here, I searched for 'wood varnish' and pulled up these threads: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=wood+varnish I'm sure there are plenty of others that could be found using a different search term like 'wood strips' or 'wood plank' (search doesn't work on 3-letter words, so 'bed' won't get you anything). __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

04-23-2007, 02:36 PM	#5
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Bed Wood mahogany is considered a soft wood a bit harder than most pine alot softer than most oaks// it could be used for a bed floor and would look good on a lightly used truck but wont hold up to severe work conditions __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

04-23-2007, 05:26 PM	#6
KAILUAZ King of Rust Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: St Petersburg, FL Posts: 359	Re: Bed Wood I have plywood,, I dont think you need any pics hahaha __________________ 1970 GMC 2500, 350, TH400, front disks, thats it! My Pics

04-23-2007, 05:36 PM	#7
shifty Questionable Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Atlanta Posts: 13,376	Re: Bed Wood I bet your plywood looks better than the rotten ass pine that the PO left on my truck. Worst part is, he just threw planks of wood on the damned thing - didn't even notch the boards properly - and redrilled all of the damned bed supports so now they look like freaking swiss cheese. It's my one major gripe about the work he did to the truck. __________________ If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

04-23-2007, 05:51 PM	#8
blukangoo Neighborhood Pickle Slinger Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cadolzburg, Bavaria, Germany Posts: 2,224	Re: Bed Wood As soon as I get to my bed I will be installing Ash. I work in a carpenter shop here in Germany and the structure of the Ash is my favorite. I was thinking about being different and using Hard Maple but my "brothers" said go with the Ash. __________________ -------------------------------------------------- My C10 Diary Our cars: 1966 Chevrolet Chevelle 396 - TH350 1968 Chevrolet C10/CST 327 TH400/375 1969 Corvette Stingray 350 - Muncie Manual Trans 1969 Chevrolet ElCamino 350 - TH400 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible - 350 Rocket - TH350 1973 Camaro LT - New Engine Done - TH350 1973 Corvette Convertible 454 - TH400

04-23-2007, 07:57 PM	#10
dave-68 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Palm Bay, Florida Posts: 75	Re: Bed Wood Has anyone used cypress? It doesn't rot. I e-mailed Horkey's to see if he does it but didn't get a response back. I'll probably make the boards myself, I just wasn't sure about the mounting holes. GMCPauls website says to drill the thru hole on center of the washer hole, but that didn't make sense to me if you're supposed to use the eccentric washers?

04-23-2007, 08:58 PM	#11
355 Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 81	Re: Bed Wood I used Poplar. It stains real nice, has a fair grain, has lasted thru a winter of firewood, cinder block, etc and does not rot. I drilled the main frame holes straight and used carraige bolts with no problem. steve __________________ 1969 C10 Long Step,355,700r4w/lockup, HEI,Weiand,750 Performer,1.6 rockers,Camel Humps,Comp 262Extreme,Hedman,2 1/2"pipes, tele/tilt,SunRoof,ps,Disc pb,ac,Cragar,eaton,Corvette style roll pan, Bowtie louvered tail gate,lowered 2/2.

04-23-2007, 09:11 PM	#12
wyatt earp Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: ohio Posts: 77	Re: Bed Wood has any one thought of using osage orange? its a tightly grained hard wood here in ohio, has a really nice yellow/orange color(hence the name) when naturally finished. only problem is finding a tree that is straight for more than 6-8 ft, they are normally pretty gnarley. i have seen some archery bow makers use this wood and it sands and finishes great for them. also looks fantastic alternated with black walnut. now that i've said it i think i may have to try it on the '72swb.

04-24-2007, 12:32 PM	#14
rlm316 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Woodstown, NJ Posts: 669	Re: Bed Wood Anyone ever tried teak? Had some 5/4 boards given to me and was thinking of trying them in the bead.

04-23-2007, 09:17 PM	#15
wyatt earp Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: ohio Posts: 77	Re: Bed Wood oops,just thought of maybe a birdseye or tiger maple, quite pricey but would look awwwwwwsome!!!!!!

04-23-2007, 09:45 PM	#16
bedsled71 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: yuma arizona Posts: 448	Re: Bed Wood im using ash for mine..

04-23-2007, 10:08 PM	#17
6977chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Oldenburg, Indiana Posts: 199	Re: Bed Wood locust ,cedar, and redwood hold up in weather good. but redwood and cedar are both pretty soft and would ding easily. but i'm not sure what the grain of locust looks like when it sawed in to lumber.



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04-23-2007, 10:10 PM	#18
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Re: Bed Wood I used hickory on my step side. Natural color no stain. Looks alot like oak and seems to wear well Attached Images __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

04-24-2007, 12:39 PM	#19
OLDIRON69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ben Wheeler,Texas Posts: 992	Re: Bed Wood Hickory is a very nice hardwood and fairly easy to work, Ash as well, Cypress won't rot, Cedar like Western red as well as Aromatic are both soft, I would say too soft. Hickory,Oak,Pecan are all good choices as far as workability and very beautiful wood! Osage Orange is hard as concrete and will outlast the truck, like said above, cut, mill and one important thing..it has to be properly dried or it will be a total loss (this is true on the drying with any wood you use) __________________ 05 2500HD 6.0 excab 69 LWB-Gone but not forgotten! 68 Dodge Charger 383/727 69 Dodge Charger-440/4spd

04-24-2007, 12:55 PM	#20
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Re: Bed Wood Osage orange has one of the highest heating values of any wood at 30,900,000 BTU/cord...great for your wood furnace! Wood selection and finish really depends upon how you are going to use your truck. Work, show or 100 pt. restoration. If it is a 100 pt. you will have to paint the wood either body color a black. I still need to cut a piece to see what GM used in my Longhorn. Nobody thinks about this but the wood selection should also complement the final color of your truck. I really like the natural color of wood under a bright (clear varnish) finish so hate to stain the wood. Having said that...I have seen some really nice transparent stains that allow the natural beauty of the wood to come through but also give just a hint of the background body color to be used as a complement. Don't be afraid to try something different! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

04-24-2007, 04:27 PM	#21
Mrrilla Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tucson,AZ Posts: 66	Re: Bed Wood I am cutting my own from Black Walnut. Here is a picture after I planned them and cut the width. The grain becomes deeper and overall darkens with Spar Varnish. This is a hard wood also. Attached Images

04-24-2007, 12:47 PM	#22
faribran Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: AL Posts: 1,828	Re: Bed Wood DAVE-68... i have used the cypress.... works out pretty good.. it has some small knot holes that come out....the color kinda washed out.. lll try to take some pics.. __________________ "

04-24-2007, 10:25 PM	#24
kxnomore Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: CA Posts: 331	Re: Bed Wood Nope, the washer countersink holes are drilled 3/16 of an inch forward from the center hole. The idea is you drill a 1/8" hole centered in the cross sill. Then you measure 3/16" forward from that hole and drill (with a 1 5/8" forstner bit) the countersunk hole for the washer. That hole should be 1/8" deep. Then you go back and drill again the 1/8" center hole (lined up with the cross sill) out to the 3/8" size for the actual bed mount bolt. I wish I had pictures, but that's the idea.

04-25-2007, 12:50 AM	#25
John Fabris TOTY 2006 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Magalia CA USA Posts: 2,270	Re: Bed Wood I used Teak in my truck. Here is two shot of the wood as I got it. Three shots of the boards (I already cut them down and ripped the grooves) during the varnishing stage. I coated them 10 times on each surface with a light sanding inbetween each coat. NOTE that I only got two knots in the wood, and I used them as the two smallest peices... And one shot of the wood in the bed on the truck... __________________ John Fabris 67 C10 SWB Last edited by John Fabris; 04-25-2007 at 12:52 AM.

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