I hate wetsanding... (with a passion)

[C-10volvo]

It takes FOREVER, its distracting me from my finals, and it even makes a 20 year olds back hurt.... but it looks so good!

I have not posted much here in a long time (other than a bumper post) but here is a quick refresh on my project.
* Started out as my grandfathers truck
* Got it when i was 15 when he past away with 45K miles
* It had a 305 with a 700r4, later replaced with a gm 350 crate
* Did all the bodywork and paint 2 years ago
* Cracked the flexplate 2nd day i had it back from paint.
* Neglected it till about a week ago due to school and work taking all my time and money.

I was cleaning my horrid garage when i stumbled across some 2000 grit i had left over from my Volvo project. I filled up a bucket of soapy water and a spray bottle and went to work on the tailgate then the bed.

I hope i will have it done by the time it gets nicer in Oregon. Maybe by then i'll have enough bank for tires for my 20's that collect dust, a flexplate and torque converter.

Here are a few pics. Anyone have any helpful tips for buffing?

these are only during and after pics

[poolboy65-ls1]

It so not fun but it's sure worth it!

[tyjoja]

hey looks good. Nice to here and see people and projects from people from oregon and the northwest. lol bob

[st1]

Looking good, do you do freelancing work?

[knightlife]

thatd be a bit of a drive, wouldnt it st1? lol

[benoit454]

Definately not fun but worth it.

I always end up doing it a few times, you know blocking, getting ready to prime, after prime, after paint, then buff lol.

[piecesparts]

What do you have for a buffer and what type of polishing compoound do you use. There have been a lot of changes in the past five years and some types are harder to use than others. Are you looking for a truly smooth finish, or would you want a type of finish that is like the factory's create? If you are inot the factory look, 3000 grit foam sanding disk on your DA sander will do wonders in shortening the job. It is good stuff, but I usually go for the hand sanding with a 2000 grit and then follow with 2500 grit using a 3-M rubber backing pad for support. Get a small rubber or surgical nylon squeege to wipe away the water and paint residue to see if you are doing well.

I use two different buffers; Both buffers are adjustaable speed rotary units (Not orbital). One with a 9" 3-M wool pad--set at 1200 RPM to cut the finish down and polish it, I then follow with a foam pad and a glazing compound on a buffer that is set at about 900 RPMs. This is all followed with a detail spray cleaner and another foam pad to get the compounds out of the paint. Keep the pads clean and wetted so that they do not burn the paint. Stay away from shrp edges on the vehicle so that you don't burn through the paint. And keep the buffer moving at all times.

The picture below is an idea of the finish that I got by taking my time. There is about 25 hours of finish work in the front work on this truck. That includes the hood, fenders, and doors.

[C-10volvo]

thanks for the tips! i have been using just 2000 grit with a 1/4'' flexible block for the contoured sections and a harder "wonderblock" for the rest.. as for compound i've been using some 3m stuff to buff it, then Maguires #7 then tech wax. for my buffer.... yeah... its a ghetto orbital with a cotton pad... yeah... about that...

I need to source myself some finer paper, better buffer and wax. Anyone have any good websites for this?

thanks again, Ken

[bigblock79]

it looks good

[piecesparts]

I use the 3-m "Finnessee-It" polish to buff the paint with, then I go back with 3-Ms glazing compund on dark finishes. I don't use a wax on paint that is new. I give it about 45 days then I go back with a sealer to keep the dirt out of the paint. Everyone has their own choice of finish products, i ofund that Wizards is a great product, and it works to keep paint clean and lowers the static charge on the finish, so dirt soes not attract to it. The sealer can be used and if necessary the area can be repainted after sanding (WITHOUT) any fisheyes or the usual wax problems.

[benoit454]

I do pretty much the same.

I use 3m rubbing compound and machine polish. I use a wool bonnet and one of the sander/polishers I got from autozone. It's just like a big angel grinder but varible speed.

I too DO NOT wax fresh paint for at least a month or so.

I usually wet sand with 1000 or 1500 and then use the 3m super duty or extra cut compound whichever it is, that stuff worked best for me as far as shine and ease of use.


I hear norton makes an all in one polish now, just uses 3 different bonnets but only one coumpound for everything, seen it on trucks, the tv show.

[C-10volvo]

what is your guys' definition of fresh paint? paint that has been recently cut and buffed or freshly sprayed paint?

[benoit454]

just painted. = fresh paint.

if it's old paint like a year or so ago and not just sprayed, and you cut then buff it, you'll have to wax it as soon as possible!!!!!!!!!

At least that's how it's been with me, get faded or dull paint, wet sand and buff it, it gets dull within a month if you don't wax it.

So this time I did it, i waxed it and took it off with a buffer, then waxed it again and took it off by hand.

If the paint is only a few weeks old or months old it's pretty "fresh".

basically something you just sprayed, let dry for the reccomened time frame before wet sanding and buffing, which is uaully like 72 hours or so after paint has dried, that's fresh and should not be waxed for at least a month or longer.