Need Help with Brakes ASAP

[ClassicRedneck05]

ok so i have my 72 and when i was driving the rubber brake line on my front right side going to my caliper burst and i lost my brakes. well i was able to stop down shifting and using the E-brake a little well i replaced the line and the little bleeder valves are so tight on the caliper i cant get them loose to bleed my lines well i was told to losen the line where the rubber hose goes into the brake line and i was actually able to get it to come out there but i still have no brakes i can pump it about 5 times and it will get harder and hold but still goes to the floor any ideas? i really need to get this fixed

also while im on the brake system i have never been able to get any fluid to go to my rear brakes any ideas on that would help to

[68K20 x Drill]

I clamp the bleeder in Vice-Grips until it is about to break, then turn the Vice Grip with a hammer. If it comes out, you can buy a new bleeder screw.

[dave2953]

You'll have to get those bleeders loose somehow; bleeding fluid at any point before the caliper bleeder screw won't do you any good. Sounds like you still have air in the system. As for the rear, have you tried to gravity bleed them? It has worked for me in the past.

[ClassicRedneck05]

hmm alrighty well then i will def have to try that and Gravity bleed?? i cant say that i have herd of that

[lbpd719]

you need to get the bleeders open, but also you need to investigate why you are not getting any fluid to the rears (hopefully I read that correctly).

Did you replace all of the hoses and flush out the entire system? Also check the other lines when they are under pressure if you did not replace them to see if they are bulging. If you have a tiny piece of rubber running in your lines from things falling apart (like the rubber cap on top of the master cylinder, inside of a hose etc) you could be looking at another unexpected brake loss.

Get a few cans of cleaner and start flushing lines, proportioning valve, etc.. After you are sure those are nice and clean and dry, then start worrying about pedal levels.

These types of failures are golden (because they always cost you more than you want to spend) opportunities to make sure vital components are in good shape, and working correctly. (When I get a new vehicle, the first thing I check is the brakes, and check them every time I do a service/oil change.)

Good luck!

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

First off if I were you I would take your truck to a shop and get it fixed properly!! The fact that you have never had back brakes and you seem to be quite content with this surprises the s%^t out of me!

You never mentioned pwr. or drum brakes. I would look at the porportioning valve, the master brake cylinder and the rear brake cylinders to start with. (In your case go to a shop.)

You are a very lucky individual that you never killed or hurt yourself or anyone else when your front brake line burst with your back brakes not working. How long have you been driving around like this? When family members or friends get into your truck they are assuming that it is safe and here you are running around with 50% of your brakes not working. This is just dead wrong.

You may think that I'm over reacting but not so .... this is what gives hot rodding a bad name!

esll.

[ChevyDude]

I just used a Motive power bleeder to do my brakes. Only requires one person, no pumping of the brake pedal...really worked slick!!!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=245949

[ClassicRedneck05]

this is a truck i just got i have only had it about a week it has power brakes disk front and drum rear

[larry may]

Originally Posted by ClassicRedneck05

this is a truck i just got i have only had it about a week it has power brakes disk front and drum rear

There was a thread a few days ago dealing with the same issue about stuck bleeders and bleeding the system. Seems about three weeks ago. One of these wizzards had mentioned how to get the bleeder out and replace it . With out messing up the tapped holes where the bleeder screws into . Good luck

[cdowns]

if you cant get the bleeders open without braking them off its not a big deal and not very expensive to just replace the calipers// if one rubber hose broke i'd be replacing all 3 // the pin on the combo valve should be clamped to the in position during bleeding

[PanelDeland]

I usually use a 1/4 socket to break the bleeders loose.Then a line wrench/flare nut wrench to bleed with.A six point socket will grip in a way that has less tendency to strip the flats off of the bleeder.

[rlm316]

Use the 6-point and a ratchet with plenty of good penetrating oil. When you get them out, put some never-seize on the threads and you will never have another problem with them.