4" Lift in Progress...a couple questions

[rcbildr]

I'm in the process of installing a 4" lift on my 85 3/4 ton suburban and I have a couple questions. So far I have the front springs and shocks installed and I've noticed that it looks like the CV joint on the front driveshaft is going to hit or rub on the crossmember. Will that change once I get the lift installed on the back? If it doesn't change, what should I do? Also, what do I use to get the steering arm off....should I keep beating on it with a big hammer? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by rcbildr

I'm in the process of installing a 4" lift on my 85 3/4 ton suburban and I have a couple questions. So far I have the front springs and shocks installed and I've noticed that it looks like the CV joint on the front driveshaft is going to hit or rub on the crossmember. Will that change once I get the lift installed on the back? If it doesn't change, what should I do? Also, what do I use to get the steering arm off....should I keep beating on it with a big hammer? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Not sure about the cv I've never had any issues with a 4" lift. As far as the steering arm soak them with some pb blaster overnight and if you look closely they are some numbers stamped on the arm. Get the biggest hammer you can get under there and pound on those numbers, should pop right off.

[Zoomad75]

I'm not sure that the lift is the total cause of the driveshaft interference. It's part of it, but your sig line states the Sub was converted over to a 465 manual trans, from an auto. Did the t/case get swapped out too? What did it have and what's it got now? What style of cross memeber was used?

There are different crossmembers for the different tranny/t-case combos that were used. Given the different placement between manual trans and auto trans you could be coming into some interference from that.

The cheap way to fix would be to break out the grinder and make clearance for the d-shaft. Or you could start looking for a crossmember that has the drop in it for the front shaft.

[rcbildr]

I used the stock NP-208 T-case, but I had to buy a different crossmember. I had to replace the 'W' shaped crossmember with the flat crossmember. I looked at the clearance again today and it looks like I will be ok, but it will be close. If it does hit, I think a few mintues with a grinder will fix it.

Thanks for the info...the PB Blaster and 5lb hammer worked. I made some more progress on the Burb tonight...got the new steering arm installed. I also managed to hit my thumb with the hammer.....now my finger and thumb on my left hand really hurt...dropped a pump on my finger this morning. All thats left for the front is to make up some new sway bar mounts...I pieced together the lift..and mount up the sway bar and then the real fun begins...swapping out the rear end and installing the lift. Thanks again for the info.

[Zoomad75]

No problem... Besides, I'm not getting anything done on my own stuff until I smash a finger or bleed. I managed to cut my finger last weekend while checking my diff fluid. I chalked it up as a blood sacrifice to the off road gods for a good trip this weekend.