Gringoloco's GenIII 6 point-oh build

[gringoloco]

Well, I finally found the time to start on this project I've had sittting around for a while. A buddy of mine (Fastrucken) has a '66 fleetside he is currently doing a 5.3/4L60E swap into. He also turned me on to a 6.0 sitting in the JY where he got his motor. I couldn't resist the deal for $400- take whatever you need! I got everything- sensors, harness, accessories- all of it.

It has been sitting a while until he started doing his swap; I just couldn't let his truck be cooler than mine So, I started the unenviable task of tearing through all the spaghetti and getting into the very DIRTY motor.

[gringoloco]

I decided after getting into it, that the motor needed freshening up. I have taken a little time to clean everything well as I go and will be doing a few upgrades along the way. The rotating assembly is mostly stock except for the ARP rod bolts- notoriously weak in these motors- the bottom end should be good for 600hp now. I won't be making quite that much, but while I'm in here I will definitely be making some heads/cam improvements. Looking for around 450...

In these pics you can also see the Trans-Dapt motor mount plates I'm using as well as the 73-87 style 'clamshell' mounts I'm switching to. I had planned on using the ECE style, but felt it placed the motor too far forward for my tastes.

[gringoloco]

That's what it looks like now, after disassembly, cleaning, honing, more cleaning, new bearings/rings, a coat of paint, and reassembly. Waiting on my heads and cam now.

I also started tearing into the harness. I figure for $600 for an aftermarket harness, I can do this on my own. It really is pretty simple once you get into it. The harness is basically stand-alone already, you just need 4 fuses and 3 relays added to make it run. I will take some time and reroute it while it's apart because the way the trucks harness is from the factory runs over the intake and to the fenderwell- UGLY.

It's much more manageable when it's not balled up on top of the motor. I got it pared down to only what is needed to run. Out of the 160 pins on the ECM, I will only need 52! For whatever reason, the only tape I could find while labeling the harness was expensive a$$ blue painter's tape. At least it wasn't the green stuff... The box of wires is what I deleted from the harness.

Here's also a pic also of the engine that's coming out. It's actually a pretty good running little 350ci. I think I'm gonna put it in my truck. My ol'lady asked me why I was doing this when the truck already has a perfectly good engine. I asked her why she needs so many pairs of shoes... They'll never get it, I guess.

[68 short step]

nice job.... so are your using the exisiting 350 or 400 tranny?
you get rid of the tranny, neutral saftey sw., rear o2's wires and there goes about half your wireing...

[gringoloco]

I'll be putting a 700R4 behind it. Minus those circuits and all the emissions junk makes for a really clean setup.

[shifty]

what kind of adaptation is involved with using a 700R4?

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by shifty

what kind of adaptation is involved with using a 700R4?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6767...s1%20flexplate

[gringoloco]

Not much really. Just have to find a way to actuate the TV cable and a crank spacer to line up the torque converter. The spacer is off the shelf GM. Bowtie Overdrives makes a kit if I can't easily figure anything out for the TV cable. I'm thinking I can use the old cruise control bracketry...

[shifty]

Is it easier to use a 700R4, or a TH350 for a swap like this?

How much of the harness can you whittle away if you use an analog tranny (and delete rear O²'s)?

I thought the 700R4's were notorious for grenading. I always hear 3rd Gen Camaro owners complaining about their trannies taking a crap on them (all 700R4's) I am pretty sure internals were beefed up when the 700R4 went electronic (became the 4l60e), but ... I can't help but wonder if that 700R4 is going to hold up behind an LQ9?

[BUDDY]

Originally Posted by shifty

Is it easier to use a 700R4, or a TH350 for a swap like this?

How much of the harness can you whittle away if you use an analog tranny (and delete rear O²'s)?

I thought the 700R4's were notorious for grenading. I always hear 3rd Gen Camaro owners complaining about their trannies taking a crap on them (all 700R4's) I am pretty sure internals were beefed up when the 700R4 went electronic (became the 4l60e), but ... I can't help but wonder if that 700R4 is going to hold up behind an LQ9?

They are STILL putting these in trucks. You can get an allison behind the 6.0, (I think), but the standard equipment is the 4L60E. I'd recommend going back to the JY & trying to get the tranny as well, just for a more seamless swap. I'm sure you can get the 700r4 to work though.

Later,
Buddy

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shifty

Is it easier to use a 700R4, or a TH350 for a swap like this?

TH350 would be easier simply because of the lack of TV cable. You would still have a kickdown cable though. You could use the kit posted above by68ss or buy the little spacer from GM for like $20 and redrill your flexplate for the TQ converter...

How much of the harness can you whittle away if you use an analog tranny (and delete rear O²'s)?

A LOT. I am only using 52 pins on the PCM out of a possible 160. You will delete more than you keep.

I thought the 700R4's were notorious for grenading.

The early ones were weak. ~84-up are better and they can be built to hold the power. Mine is a rebuilt/upgraded unit.

...

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Can you tell me more about the motor mount setup.

I had to cut the engine stands off my 68 cause they were all hacked up. I'd like to use motor mounts that have the bolts running parallel with the frame, so what engine stands, motor mounts, and adapters do I need for an LS1?

They are simply '73-'87 Truck stands. They will bolt in place of your engine stands just like factory. The adapter plates are Trans-Dapt 4572.

Originally Posted by shifty

How much of the harness can you whittle away if you use an analog tranny (and delete rear O²'s)?

Maybe more info than you're looking for, but someone else might be able to use it. This should be the same for nearly all LS variants '99-'02. From what I have seen, there are slight variances between where some of the grounds and 5V reference power is on the PCM, but the meat-and-potatoes are all the exact same.

These are the red and blue PCM connectors on a truck. Some of the extra unused pins will be diffrerent between F-cars and 'vettes.

The highlighted yellow portions are must haves for the engine to run:

- Idle Air Temperature Sensor (IAT)
- Crank Position Sensor (CKP)
- Fuel Injectors
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Knock Sensors (May run without them, but why?)
- Cam Position Sensor (CMP)
- Ignition Coils
- Oxygen Sensors O2 (Front- rears are emissions only)
- Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP)
- Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF)
- Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

The highlighted green are extras I will be using for convenience:

- ALDL Serial Data to hook up a scanner
- Fuel pump relay control
- Tach output
- Alternator turn on
- MIL/SES Lamp
- VSS Signal (helps with idle w/auto tranny and output for speedo)

[gringoloco]

And some progress- Got it bolted together some more and started routing the wiring harness. I will be hiding the wiring as much as possible. I want to be able to see my valvecovers! I will also be doing some coilpack relocation to hide them a little better than just sitting on the motor.

[Ackattack]

Can you tell me more about the motor mount setup.

I had to cut the engine stands off my 68 cause they were all hacked up. I'd like to use motor mounts that have the bolts running parallel with the frame, so what engine stands, motor mounts, and adapters do I need for an LS1?

[shifty]

I would get the tubular mounts that you see in Killer 71's buildup. All you need is a mount with a single bolthole parallel to the frame.

[oscareltemblo]

Originally Posted by shifty

I would get the tubular mounts that you see in Killer 71's buildup. All you need is a mount with a single bolthole parallel to the frame.

I agree that's what I'm using

[killer71]

makin some headway i see!

[Hart_Rod]

On board, . The only truck "stuff" I brought with me to NM was the 5.3 wiring harness for the CrewCab. I don't have a garage or many tools, but thought I might be able to figure out how to make the original harness work and save a few bucks. Do you know what wires you keep if you are going to run the factory 4L60E?

R

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Do you know what wires you keep if you are going to run the factory 4L60E?

As far as I can tell, the highlighted red are the only ones needed to run it. This is untested and unverified, but all that is left are emissions and various fluid level sensors and traction control, but who needs that stuff?

[68 short step]

you'll also need "33 brk sw ppl"

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

you'll also need "33 brk sw ppl"

To unlock the converter?

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

To unlock the converter?

you got it..

[68 short step]

like this....
http://216.25.99.66/newhtml/brakeswitch.html

[killer71]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

like this....
http://216.25.99.66/newhtml/brakeswitch.html

Does this dude know some stuff or what?

[abadsvt]

this is some usefull info. Thanks alot!