power brake booster

[62 short step]

I'm about to purchase one, my ? is which ones are yall running?

[3speed 6cyl]

Once I get mine running I'll let you know if it's any good. Currently strugglen' w/ priming system.

[Brad54]

What year truck?
I've got a '62 with the funky hydraulic clutch. I'm keeping the drum brakes for now. CPP was the only company that had a system for dual reservoir/drums/clutch.

The quality of the parts was excellent. The instructions are THE WORST I'VE EVER SEEN. I can't find terms strong enough to say how horrible the instructions were. A single sheet, with a line-art drawing from the rear 3/4 of the assembly. Nothing else. When I called for some more info, they said the hole on the brake pedal arm needs to be relocated 3/4-inch lower and that "there's a tag on the new rod that says that." No, there was no tag. If I didn't know it usually has to be moved for a power conversion, I wouldn't have known to ask "how much does it need to be moved."

Also, it didn't come with any hook-ups for the clutch, or any suggestions for the line. (You need some sort of a flexible joint between the hard line and the clutch slave. If you just run hardline directly to the slave, it'll crack when the engine moves while it's running). No instructions on bench bleeding the master cylinder, and no schematic on how it all goes together. The unit arrives completely assembled and should bolt right to the firewall...except that you have to add two additional holes to the firewall. And to determine the location of these two holes, you have to take the whole thing apart.

I was a tech editor for car mags for 10 years, so I'm pretty good at figuring this stuff out...but I think the average weekend enthusiast will be frustrated. Good instructions would have made it a one-day deal. No instructions, and I spent several days figuring things out, making trips to the parts store and waiting until Monday to call their tech line. At least if they had instructions I could have looked everything over before starting to turn wrenches. Once the truck comes apart, it's apart until the new stuff goes back on. You'll need a plan for how to run the new, additional lines, a cap to plug one of the in-ports on the old junction block, etc.

-Brad

[thekid54]

^Hmmm, I agree their instructions were pretty weak, but you don't have to take the whole unit apart to locate the new holes in the firewall, atleast I didn't.

[62 short step]

Thats a good point, I didn't know you have to move the rod on the pedal assembly. I figured it would be in the stock location. Whats the point of it being moved 3/4 inch lower?

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by 62 short step

Thats a good point, I didn't know you have to move the rod on the pedal assembly. I figured it would be in the stock location. Whats the point of it being moved 3/4 inch lower?

It changes the pedal ratio.

I probably didn't NEED to remove everything to drill the holes, but I wanted access for my transfer punch. I've drilled too many holes in brackets based off a sharpie marker that end up being just a touch off to one side or the other, and then you have to drill a bigger hole.
I also wanted to paint all that gold iridite. I can't be the only one who likes the looks of semi-gloss black power boosters and brackets versus that gold color, can I?

-Brad

[62 short step]

Originally Posted by Brad54

It changes the pedal ratio.

I probably didn't NEED to remove everything to drill the holes, but I wanted access for my transfer punch. I've drilled too many holes in brackets based off a sharpie marker that end up being just a touch off to one side or the other, and then you have to drill a bigger hole.
I also wanted to paint all that gold iridite. I can't be the only one who likes the looks of semi-gloss black power boosters and brackets versus that gold color, can I?

-Brad

Yea, I prefer it to be black also!! Thanks for the info on the rod to the pedal. Jeremy

[slepysal]

I am running a 250 l6 in my 1960 and due to clearnce issues am not able to use a booster. I was able to get a slave cylinder kit , a master cyl plate ,and brake / clutch pedal rods. rodsfrom MP brakes. The instructions are good . They use the two bolts left of the master cylinder on the fire wall to mount the new clutch master . I have not installed it yet. But they also sell a master/booster assembly for 60-62 with m/t. With what I paid for the parts I sholud have just got the wole assembly !

[62 short step]

Originally Posted by slepysal

I am running a 250 l6 in my 1960 and due to clearnce issues am not able to use a booster. I was able to get a slave cylinder kit , a master cyl plate ,and brake / clutch pedal rods. rodsfrom MP brakes. The instructions are good . They use the two bolts left of the master cylinder on the fire wall to mount the new clutch master . I have not installed it yet. But they also sell a master/booster assembly for 60-62 with m/t. With what I paid for the poarts I sholud have just got the wole assembly !

I know what you mean Sal, the 60-62 booster for the manual has everything you need. I have taken my 4-speed out a few months back and put a th 350 auto in its place. Now I can just get the 60-66 master and power booster and be done.