bed wood

[rckendal]

Bed wood will be here wed. It will come sanded I have to finish it, is it best to brush on or can you use a sprayer to put varinish on. Just need some help with what others have done. Thanks for any help.

[Metmanice]

Couple weeks ago on Gearz, Stacey used a HVLP paint gun to do a set and even used an automotive clear coat. Looked great. He said you could then buff it just like your auto finish.

Wouldn't recommend it if you really wanted to use the bed...but damn it was pretty sweet..

[cdowns]

to get an optimum finish you'd need to finish sand it before starting applying anything// brush or spray you can get an excellent finish either way// if you do use a brush the quality of the brush has alot to do with finished looks a $25 brush gets a better finish than a $3 homedepot allpurpose one// ive seen a lot of dropdead woodwork on multimillion dollar yachts done with a brush

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Bed Time Story is a post that I just finished. It is a very complete post from start to finish. We used a sponge applicator, no chance of getting brush hairs in your work or air bubbles that can result with a brush.

esll.

[shade67]

Originally Posted by Metmanice

Couple weeks ago on Gearz, Stacey used a HVLP paint gun to do a set and even used an automotive clear coat. Looked great. He said you could then buff it just like your auto finish.

Wouldn't recommend it if you really wanted to use the bed...but damn it was pretty sweet..

Gearz? what station is that on???

[Richard Dobson]

I used Duron marine spar varnish. Appled about 5 coats sanding in between with 240 grit sandpaper. I used a good China bristle brush, the varnish is self leveling while drying so it don't leave streaks. I had to find a real dust free area to use for applying the paint because it attracts dust and anything else in the area.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by shade67

Gearz? what station is that on???

ESPN

[Dano69c10]

Those wood bed floors are nicer than the wood floors in my house!
Dano

[Longhorn Man]

If the truck will spend much time outside, then you need to make sure the varnish is UV safe.
I've never made it to this point on any truck of mine, but I've read on here that you'd be best off with a marine grade of finish, or you can stain it and then use an automotive clear coat.

[Bishops Trucks]

The marine varnish is best to use if exposed to the elements. Like they said above, use a good brush and sand between coats. After you have all the coats you want on the wood, sand the boards with a sanding block starting with 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. When you are done sanding you can start buffing. Use a good quality compound and work up to the mirror finish that you are looking for.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

I cannot drive in the winter time, hell for that matter night time. But I didn't want to baby this truck so I did the stain and the tinted clear in Sikens. Sikens offers UV protection in their products. This is a Swedish company and the word Sikens means "FOREVER." It comes in satin or gloss. I choosed satin. I used this on my house outside as well as inside. This is made for the elements and you have a huge choice of colors to choose from.

Good luck with your project,

esll.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Here are some pictures of my bed finished in Sikens.

[Longhorn Man]

Outstanding info, thanks
And the bed floor looks kick ass too

[rckendal]

east side, how many coats did you use and did you sand in between coats. Was your wood pre sanded. Thanks for the sikkens info. I have plans to do my bed friday and saturday, your bed looks great i only hope mine will turn out like that. thanks again for your help.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by rckendal

east side, how many coats did you use and did you sand in between coats. Was your wood pre sanded. Thanks for the sikkens info. I have plans to do my bed friday and saturday, your bed looks great i only hope mine will turn out like that. thanks again for your help.

**********************************************************

I used two coats of Sikens dark oak stain and two coats of their clear tinted UV protectant clear coat. Every coat stain or clear is sanded in between. All the boards FOR "THEIR FIRST SANDING ONLY" were sanded with the grain with an electric sander with 150 grit. Air blow sanding residue off and stain. For every other coat we scuffed the boards with 4 zero Bull Wool.

esll.

[slomotion]

A marine varnish, and some throw-away wood handled foam brushes. Cut the varnish about 30% with turpentine for the first coat to seal the grain. Cut the second coat 10%. Then apply 3 or four more coats full strength, sanding lightly with 220 grit paper in between. The varnish is mechanically bonded so the sanding scuffs the surface for bonding as well as smooths out the previous coats.
You can build up to 6 or 7 coats which makes a touch up easier. My thought is, if it works on boats in a severe invironment, it oughta work on a truck bed.
My favorite is Interlux Schooner #96.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by slomotion

A marine varnish, and some throw-away wood handled foam brushes. Cut the varnish about 30% with turpentine for the first coat to seal the grain. Cut the second coat 10%. Then apply 3 or four more coats full strength, sanding lightly with 220 grit paper in between. The varnish is mechanically bonded so the sanding scuffs the surface for bonding as well as smooths out the previous coats.
You can build up to 6 or 7 coats which makes a touch up easier. My thought is, if it works on boats in a severe invironment, it oughta work on a truck bed.
My favorite is Interlux Schooner #96.

**********************************************************

Sweet truck!! Nicest flat deck that I've seen and I like the six banger they were good engines.

esll.

[Longhorn Man]

good god that is beautiful!

[Musclerodz]

I don't think too many people are using their nice wood beds anymore as haulers. I have gone to using automotive clear cloat as a wood finish several years back on the vintage wood propellers we manufacture. It does not yellow with age, UV proof, and durable. Problem with sanding andthing finer that 150 will clog the pores of the grain. Once you are done sanding, wipe the boards down with a wet rag, not wringing wet with water dripping in the floor. It will open the pores and stand the grain up. It will feel rough again but will allow the finish to penetrate deeper into the wood. Apply 1-2 good coats, let it cure. Finish sand with 320/400 and apply 2 more coats and the wood will be as smooth as a baby's a$$.

[Sequoyah]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

I don't think too many people are using their nice wood beds anymore as haulers. I have gone to using automotive clear cloat as a wood finish several years back on the vintage wood propellers we manufacture. It does not yellow with age, UV proof, and durable. Problem with sanding andthing finer that 150 will clog the pores of the grain. Once you are done sanding, wipe the boards down with a wet rag, not wringing wet with water dripping in the floor. It will open the pores and stand the grain up. It will feel rough again but will allow the finish to penetrate deeper into the wood. Apply 1-2 good coats, let it cure. Finish sand with 320/400 and apply 2 more coats and the wood will be as smooth as a baby's a$$.

Not really...I'd recommend sanding 80, 100, 120, 150...220 if you're really insane Use a new brass bristle brush to get the dust in the grain (especially if you are using a wide, open grain like ash or oak...just brush with the grain). Blow it off with compressed air and if you like use a tack cloth over it (I usually don't personally). I'm going to use a "card" scraper to give it a surface I can finish. I guess you could say "hand-scraped" but that term is kind of over used with some flooring materials. It won't be wavy...it shears the fibers instead of putting progressively finer scratches in the wood. Both ways work well though

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

I don't think too many people are using their nice wood beds anymore as haulers. I have gone to using automotive clear cloat as a wood finish several years back on the vintage wood propellers we manufacture. It does not yellow with age, UV proof, and durable. Problem with sanding andthing finer that 150 will clog the pores of the grain. Once you are done sanding, wipe the boards down with a wet rag, not wringing wet with water dripping in the floor. It will open the pores and stand the grain up. It will feel rough again but will allow the finish to penetrate deeper into the wood. Apply 1-2 good coats, let it cure. Finish sand with 320/400 and apply 2 more coats and the wood will be as smooth as a baby's a$$.

You are quite right Musclerodz...

The property you describe is called 'mill glaze'. The planing and sanding of wood causes the grains to lie down, preventing proper penetration of finishes or later, after the finish had been applied, those grains can relax, affecting the integrity of the finishes adhesion. The water method works well plus there are "mill glaze removers" available at most better lumber yards. ...just my .02 worth.

[slomotion]

Thank You, Longhorn. Here's a couple shots of the other end. BTW, I do use this to haul. I have two pieces of plywood with carpet on the bottom that matches the skid strips. When I'm going to use it I just strap down the ply's and go.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread!

[Dad's Truck]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Thank You, Longhorn. Here's a couple shots of the other end. BTW, I do use this to haul. I have two pieces of plywood with carpet on the bottom that matches the skid strips. When I'm going to use it I just strap down the ply's and go.

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread!

NOW I know what I want to do with my six-banger!

[rckendal]

I finished bed Saturday it took a solid 9 hours to do. i Put 4 coats of spar varnish and sanded with 220 in between coats on Friday. I put new cross sills and a new reinforment sill, i was lucky because neighbor was able to help here and there could not have done this by myself. again 9 hours to put all new wood in had a hell of a time it was one of the hardest things i have done. Thanks for your help oh yea my bed looks great it turned out real nice.

[Yeller68]

Originally Posted by rckendal

I finished bed Saturday it took a solid 9 hours to do. i Put 4 coats of spar varnish and sanded with 220 in between coats on Friday. I put new cross sills and a new reinforment sill, i was lucky because neighbor was able to help here and there could not have done this by myself. again 9 hours to put all new wood in had a hell of a time it was one of the hardest things i have done. Thanks for your help oh yea my bed looks great it turned out real nice.

You did yours, pretty much the same way I did mine, and I agree with you, it was one of the hardest things I did to the truck. But it was worth it, as good as it turned out. But as they always say.....