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10-01-2002, 08:29 AM | #1 |
English Chevy Owner
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
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Help with Prop shaft centre bearing
I have a 67-½ ton long fleet and need to replace the prop shaft centre carrier bearing. I have been told that there are two sizes of bearing. Would these be dependant on original engine fitment (I6 vs V8), weight ( ½ ¾ or 1 ton) or do they vary randomly. It is currently fitted with a 350, and a TH350, but was originally a six, tranny is probably original.
Is there any way to tell what size bearing I have without dropping it as I can’t get a vernier gauge on it to measure it in place. If I have to drop the shaft and measure it how easy is it and how do I do it, I’ve never worked on a vehicle with auto transmission and it looks quite a different set-up to what I am used to on Manual British cars. Thanks for the expected input
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-01-2002, 11:00 AM | #2 |
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There are 2 basic designs for the 1/2 ton carrier bearing. The first (and most likely the one you have) is bolted to the cross member with two bolts that are approximately an inch from each other, the bolts are oriented front to back, and the carrier bearing housing is tear drop shaped.
The second type is heavier duty and the bolts are about 6" apart and the bolts are oriented side to side, and the carrier bearing mount is half-moon shape. If it is the second type, you will also have a grease zerk where the slider is between the front and back drive shafts. Hope this helps more than it confuses.
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'72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350 |
10-01-2002, 01:45 PM | #3 |
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Yeah, it's actually VERY easy to determine which of the two you have. They are completely different in designs. You shouldn't have to measure anything. Just make a visible inspection, and head off to the parts store that's most reliable. I have the "teardrop" shaped bearing, and get mine at NAPA. Replaced it back in February with no problems since.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
10-01-2002, 05:40 PM | #4 |
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As for which truck has which bearing: I'm sure there is logic in the selection, but I've never been able to puzzle it out, possibly because of modifications done over the life of so many trucks.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
10-02-2002, 05:30 AM | #5 |
English Chevy Owner
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Here is a picture of the bearing, seems to be the first type, mounting bolts fore and aft, hangs down on a stem like a teardrop.
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-02-2002, 05:31 AM | #6 |
English Chevy Owner
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and another view
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-02-2002, 05:35 AM | #7 |
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and finally........(getting nearer 100 posts as well!)
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-02-2002, 09:23 AM | #8 |
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Yep, that is the first type that I described.
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'72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350 |
10-02-2002, 10:38 AM | #9 |
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Yep, that's the most common one. From experience, make sure that you look at the part at the store. Went to get one from NAPA, and I think I saw pretty much all the different styles before they found the right one. First they brought out a U style that was about 6" across, the next one was about 8" across. Then they found a very strange one with mounts on the top and bottom, and then the right one.
Also I would recommend replacing the u-joints since you'll have the driveshaft out anyways. Just my nickels worth... Scott
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------------------------------------------------ I say it's only money, my wife says it's only a truck.... '71 C10 Deluxe, factory ac, ps, pb, should be done by 2102 Longmont, CO husker95@hotmail.com |
10-02-2002, 11:53 AM | #10 |
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just have them take out both and look tio see which one looks like yours....i work at trak auto and thats what i did for mine and any other of us that come in there...-Nick
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-'02 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 4x4... needing a small lift and bigger tires -'72 Chevy C-10(350, bored 60 over)dual flowmasters, 3 on the tree -'85 K5 Blazer,305 NO MORE...350 is in,2" lift,33" Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials -dads '70 burb (red, 5-7 drop, 350...) www.geocities.com/userc10/truckhome.html AIM: Auntjoedadda |
10-02-2002, 01:25 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
I rebuilt my driveshaft just a couple of days ago, on a '72 LWB with the same type of bearing you have. The U-joints cost just over $10 apiece at Napa, and are greasable. I found that the rearmost one was completely rusted out (full of rust powder) on my truck, and the center bearing was seized. |
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10-02-2002, 09:44 PM | #12 |
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For those that didn't notice Lippy is located in England so I don't think a trip to the local NAPA store is going to work out. First clue was the spelling of the word centre...Being a Brit I noticed it right away. Good luck with the bearing anyway...
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10-03-2002, 04:22 AM | #13 |
English Chevy Owner
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OK, I'll check with my parts supplier and get them to open the box. U Joints too, anything else I should change? What about the rear seal on the TH350, it appears to be weeping slightly. Is this simple to replace whilst the shaft is off? Anything else?
It is a little harder maintaining my truck over here in the UK, most service parts are available from stock at specialist suppliers, anything more unusual can take two to three weeks to get and obviously cost a lot more when you add shipping and taxes. We've got a small but active band of American enthusiasts where I live, my 67 lwb fleet, an 82 Ford F150, an 80's Transam strip car running Nitrous and a beautiful 68 Impala with a 454 big block. We all help each other out when we can. Its a tough life but somebodies got to do it! Thanks for all the advice so far!
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-03-2002, 10:36 AM | #14 |
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Don't forget to index the shaft when you reassemble it.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
10-03-2002, 12:02 PM | #15 |
English Chevy Owner
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When you say index the shaft do you mean balance it? Any opinion on the rear autobox seal?
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
10-03-2002, 12:25 PM | #16 |
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By "index," I mean that the crosses all have to be in proper alignment (sounds faintly astrological, doesn't it? ). The easiest way to ensure that the original relationship/balance is maintained is to mark the two halves of the shaft before disassembly. Not reassembling them properly will result in redoing this job after just a couple thousand miles.
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'69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt. |
10-03-2002, 01:40 PM | #17 |
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I just sent you a PM...
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
10-04-2002, 05:30 PM | #18 |
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I don't know about you guys but the first indication to me that Lippy was from the UK was the flag under his name! (er...wait...he just hit 100 posts...flag wasn't there before...uh, forget I mentioned it)
Anyway, I had to do the same job not too long ago Lippy! It sucked, pulling apart everything after 30 some years of abuse, and no maintenance! LOL. Here's mine center bearing:
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