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Old 10-07-2007, 05:32 PM   #1
VDOG
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New Wheel Color

Change the wheels to Rustolem rattle can gloss black. The chrome look on this tired stock color was not working for me.
Also anybody lowered their truck only to have the driveshaft center bearing squeal? Mine is warn out, do I need a special one on a replacement will work?
And is it hard to change, DIY anyone?
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Old 10-07-2007, 06:15 PM   #2
Brock
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Re: New Wheel Color

Nope...Don't like the black rims...change them back

Just playin' they look good...maybe you should rattlecan the truck?!?
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:13 PM   #3
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Re: New Wheel Color


Dont think I did not think about it!! Cant hide that much bodywork with rattle can paint.
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:37 PM   #4
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Re: New Wheel Color

My .02:

I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting.
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:49 PM   #5
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Re: New Wheel Color

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Originally Posted by 68gmsee View Post
My .02:

I'm a chrome person, but don't mind painted rims. I painted mine blue on one of my trucks. I think the black rims will go great with thin whitewall tires. They seem sort of dark as they are. Might be the lighting.
The lighting is fine its the cheap $20.00 digital camera from Sears thats not helping. LOL!! Well I washed the truck Friday and Armor All the tires so thats another reason for the dark wheels.
I got chrome rallyes 2 15x8 and 2 15x10 for $25.00 from a friend of mine. The chrome was rusting and flaking on some parts of the wheel in the lip area thats why I painted them.
Had to get the 15x10's repaired because the back space was 6 1/2 inches toward the front lip. Had it move back tp 4 1/2 from back lip.
When I finish the truck then I will have a nice set of 18" and or 20' wheels on it.

Last edited by VDOG; 10-07-2007 at 07:50 PM. Reason: Forgot to add a line
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Old 10-07-2007, 08:25 PM   #6
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Re: New Wheel Color

Carrier bearings are not that hard to change, although I do remember having a bear of a time getting the old bearing off the driveshaft after removing from the truck.Put the shaft on a bench, hold in place with a vise. Then get a BIG hammer, a chisel, and a can of penetrating oil. Mine came off after about 10 minutes of beating on it.
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:28 PM   #7
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Re: New Wheel Color

I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot.
Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed.
I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop.
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:57 PM   #8
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Re: New Wheel Color

You can press the U joints apart in a vice with a 5/8 or smaller socket on 1 side and a 15/16" or 1" socket on the other side. The big sockets allows the cup to slide out into the socket. Easy as pie, and no impact like beating causes on the ears of the shaft. This is basically what a shop will do, except a good shop with a press set-up to do it. Its the same principle though.
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:47 PM   #9
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Re: New Wheel Color

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Originally Posted by Longhorn Man View Post
I would NEVER beat on a shaft with a hammer of any sort. We fire ppl at work for that stuff. That shaft spins anywhere between 2500 to 3500 RPMs when you go down the freeway... higher if you have a lead foot.
Take it to a drive shaft shop, have them inspect the 3 U-joints, they'll replace them (without a hammer) if they are bad, they'll spin it and ballance it if needed.
I'm the cheapest SOB you'll ever meet, but I still took my drive shafts into a shop.

I just need to change the driveshaft center bearing cause its squealling since I lowered my truck. Are you saying I should change the U-Joints also?
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:13 AM   #10
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Re: New Wheel Color

Quote:
Originally Posted by VDOG View Post
I just need to change the driveshaft center bearing cause its squealling since I lowered my truck. Are you saying I should change the U-Joints also?
If your changing out the center carrier bearing then you should spend the little extra and replace the u-joints at the same time, not that much more money but saves you time, effort and energy down the road.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:49 PM   #11
Longhorn Man
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Re: New Wheel Color

I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing.
I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money.
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Old 10-09-2007, 01:32 PM   #12
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Re: New Wheel Color

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I say the people who do it every day will be able to tell you if they are good or need replacing.
I agree it's not a bad idea to chainge them, but I understand money is money.
The heck with the money, if it needs to be done then thats one less thing I have to do.
Seems like ever since I lowered the truck one thing has lead to another. Since I got my rearend rebuilt now my truck is running hot. So I added a temp gauge yesterday and it showd 180 degrees. My idiot light kept coming on so I got the gauge to show me where I was at. Last week my fuel gauge
was working as it has off and on and then my generator light came on while the truck was running and the fuel gauge stop working. Truck was still firing up so change the voltage regulator, generator light wen out, fuel gauge still not working.
Whats next!!
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