What's the best years for a parts truck?

[bighorse]

I have a Mustang restoration shop, but a family friend has asked me to help her son locate and restore a '67-72 Chevy pickup. I found a '67 SWB that was in very good condition (very complete, reasonably straight and no rust) for $2000 so they bought it. However, it's an I6 with a 3 on the tree, and he wants a V8 Auto. It's also devoid of power anything and he would like to have PB and PS. I told him that I thought a later model parts truck might be the best way to go for upgrade parts, but since I don't do much with Chevy pickups, I thought I would ask you guys for your expertise.

I have located a wrecked '96 GMC 1500 SWB. It's got a Vortec V8 with an automatic transmission. Is this a feasible swap? What about the disc brake spindles, or perhaps even the entire suspension and steering subframe? Steering column? Brake booster? Auto brake pedal setup? If this truck isn't a good parts truck candidate, what would be good to look for? Thanks.

Here are some photos of the '67. The odometer shows 91k.

[1970cstblazer]

A 1971 or 1972 model will be great for the disc brakes, 5 lug conversion, and the PS, PB.

[Ackattack]

I'd go for a 72 if you need some interior pieces, it's a little nicer IMO.

71 or 72 for disc brakes and whatnot as stated above.

There are better engines than a vortec 350 if you're going to go to that much effort...but if you can get it cheap, its still a good engine.

[bighorse]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

There are better engines than a vortec 350 if you're going to go to that much effort...but if you can get it cheap, its still a good engine.

We're definitely going to swap to a V8. We can get the entire '96 truck for $1000 and I don't think we could touch a better complete drivetrain for that price. Would the steering/suspension components be of any use at all?

[arkracing]

The problem with the vortec set-up is all the electronic BS & the front end/disc brake/power set up won't be any easy swap, it will probably take quite a bit of fabrication.

'71-'72 C-10 will have a disc brake front end - you can swap the whole front crossmember over to the '67. you can also use the crossmember from a '73-'87 C-10, but they switched over to 1" thick rotors on some models in the late 70's. The early '73-'76 will def. have the 1.25" thick rotors and you'll have to look for a C-10 with "HD brakes" if you go with something in the '77-'87 range.

'71-'72 rear will bolt in and give you the 5-lug - or you can get axles from "early classic enterprises"

Powersteering - a box from a '71-'87 should bolt in with no problems - although some '67 frames need a small "notch" or a spacer between the chassis and the steering box.

I would get a stock style Auto Steering column - again from an auto '67-'72

Motor/tranny - Just go with a nice 350/350 or 350/700R4 for the overdrive gear.

You should be able to pick up a donor '73+ truck with all the suspension, steering, brakes, motor and trans for much less than 1k - just get a good running motor and clean it all up.

[72 cheyenne pdx]

I know for the front suspension/brakes, the 73-87 chevy's is a direct swap with little to no mods. It sounds like sometimes the mounting holes aren't all there in the 67-72 frames. I know you said the kid wants a v8, but there are a lot of option that could be done with the inline. There are a lot of inline 6 people here who could give you some insight on what can be done to those enigines. I know more people on here will chime in. Good luck

[streetstar]

Best parts truck would be a 71 or 72

2nd best would be a 73 - 87

A 96 truck for 1000 -- really depends on how bad the wreck was and the mileage on the motor and tranny--- might have some salvageable seats or something, but nothing else is really compatible without some fabrication ---- then you have a bastard child that no one can ever get the right parts for later on when stuff needs to be replaced.

Then tell your client's boy that a lot of girls out there can only drive autos too, so he's not alone with his lack of coordination-- (just kidding)

But a 350/350 combo can be done for $1500 thats freshly rebuilt without having to dispose of some "light rollover" hulk and wrestle with the electronics to get it to work.

Thats a decent starting point for a nice truck there---- incompatible parts can be made to fit anything, but with the prices these trucks get when they are done right, why mess with a proven formula?

[67_C-30]

First of all to the board!

For the price, I would definitely get the Vortec 350 truck. It would cost a lot to buy any kind of EFI set-up and OD transmission, and if you can get the whole drivetrain for $1000, you're money ahead, providing its not a worn out beat down engine/drivetrain. You can buy new ball joints and tierod ends for a 71-72 and just change out the spindles. There is no need to swap the whole crossmember. A lot of people say "Just change the crossmember, it's easier" but chances are if you swap a crossmember from a used 70's or 80's truck, you need new ball joints and tierod ends anyway if you really want to do it right.

[72armyswbtruck]

If you can get the complete truck for $1000 go for it, the swap is not hard if you have the entire truck just remember not to cut any wires, unplug them all during the transfer. The front clip comes off complete with around 10 bolts so the makes it easiest for putting in the newer engine.

[68shortfleet]

Use the search function to confirm this, but my memory beleives that the front brake system can be made to work also. Memory says that it requires 3/4 2wd 67-72 lower control arms. Then use the upper and lower ball joints fron the 96 donor. You now have a modern brake system. But that seems like a lots of mis-matching parts when you could find a 71-87 donor and use the many times proven method.

Jason

[jay6891]

Welcome from central Arkansas. You did not state how much money they were willing to spend. I'm sure you know that there are many parts available aftermarket that will work to convert over to power brakes if the money is there. I would find a 71-72 model for parts for easy swap but as you know they will be 35 years old. I too remember back in the day about using the 90 something spindles on these trucks. Have you had a chance to search yet.

[bighorse]

Thanks for the welcome. They have some money to spend, but they are depending on me to keep the project as reasonable as possible. What he wants in the end is a nice, dependable, safe truck. I learned a little more about the '96 today. It's got 160k on the drivetrain and the frame is bent. I have a small fleet of tow trucks, so disposing of the leftovers is not a problem. You never know what's going to show up in the impound...I might snag a decent donor truck for them that way if we're patient. I did a tow today for a guy who has a small boneyard of '70-72's. I may see what he has available for the steering/suspension.

Does anyone have any experience with mounting a '67-72 cab and bed on a late model chassis?

[streetstar]

Originally Posted by bighorse

.

Does anyone have any experience with mounting a '67-72 cab and bed on a late model chassis?

Your into Mustangs primarily right? That would be like putting a Boss 302 body on an F-150 4wd chassis and lifting it skyhigh ---------- interesting, but not quite right

Well, maybe not that drastic,

These trucks are not in the Boss Mustang league as far as value right now, but check ebay or some classifieds -- 2k was a very decent deal on that truck, and it looks pretty clean -- far better to go with a resto-mod look than to change the thing completely. As others have already said, the parts are out there to add disc brakes, etc. to the truck --- they actually came with them in 71 and 72 -- the 73-87 disc conversion is easy, new axles are just a C-clip away to match, any pwr steering box up til 87 will work --- there is just not much logical reasoning behind turning a nice truck into a hacked up franken-truck. Unless someone is into building a show truck that lays frame, some type of big hp pro street truck, or the like - it would be unwise to do much to that truck that couldnt be reversed relatively easily

If your client wants a "nice, safe, dependable truck" - maybe they should just get him a clean '96 or '98 short wide and call it good

[bighorse]

Originally Posted by streetstar

Your into Mustangs primarily right? That would be like putting a Boss 302 body on an F-150 4wd chassis and lifting it skyhigh ---------- interesting, but not quite right

Well, maybe not that drastic,

These trucks are not in the Boss Mustang league as far as value right now, but check ebay or some classifieds -- 2k was a very decent deal on that truck, and it looks pretty clean -- far better to go with a resto-mod look than to change the thing completely. As others have already said, the parts are out there to add disc brakes, etc. to the truck --- they actually came with them in 71 and 72 -- the 73-87 disc conversion is easy, new axles are just a C-clip away to match, any pwr steering box up til 87 will work --- there is just not much logical reasoning behind turning a nice truck into a hacked up franken-truck. Unless someone is into building a show truck that lays frame, some type of big hp pro street truck, or the like - it would be unwise to do much to that truck that couldnt be reversed relatively easily

If your client wants a "nice, safe, dependable truck" - maybe they should just get him a clean '96 or '98 short wide and call it good

Point taken...I realize there are tried and true ways to accomplish what the owner wants and that's why I'm here. Keep in mind that I'm climbing the Chevy truck learning curve, and I agree with the franken-truck comparison. I'm just turning over stones to see what I can find. I actually expected someone to compare the late model chassis idea to putting an early Mustang body on an SN-95 chassis. There is a company that actually does that, but with unibodys it's a lot more involved than creating cab/body/bed mounts and bolting them to the frame.

We looked for several weeks and found a lot of rust buckets for not much less money, so I knew that $2k was a decent price for the '67. If it was mine, I would restore it to original, stock condition (that would be SO easy with this truck). However, I also understand why that does not appeal to a 17-year old boy. Thanks for all the input...I'll certainly be back with more questions as we progress.

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by bighorse

Thanks for the welcome. They have some money to spend, but they are depending on me to keep the project as reasonable as possible. What he wants in the end is a nice, dependable, safe truck. I learned a little more about the '96 today. It's got 160k on the drivetrain and the frame is bent. I have a small fleet of tow trucks, so disposing of the leftovers is not a problem. You never know what's going to show up in the impound...I might snag a decent donor truck for them that way if we're patient. I did a tow today for a guy who has a small boneyard of '70-72's. I may see what he has available for the steering/suspension.

Does anyone have any experience with mounting a '67-72 cab and bed on a late model chassis?

I don't know, I wouldn't pay $1k for a 160,000 motor - Vortec or not.

I wouldn't put it on a newer chassis either - the factory chassis is great and can be easily and cheaply upgraded for power disc brakes and power steering.

as far as the front crossmember goes - I agree with 67_C-30 about rebuilding the front end of a donor truck as well - the only problem is that the '67-'70 Lower front control arms have steering stops that won't work with the disc brake spindles without modifications. You also have to change tie rods as they are different on the '67-'70 compared to the '71-'72 and the '73+. That is why it is easier to get a donor truck.

I took all the A-arms from a '91 Suburban, bought some 2" dropped spindles for a '73+ truck, all the steering set-up from a '73+ truck, and bolted all of it to my '69 chassis.

[caminokid]

I am using a 77 for suspension and brake parts. The axles out of the 77 fit into my 69 axle case. Both are 12 bolt. The 69 has coil springs with over loads. The 77 is a leaf spring set up. The 77 also has 11" drums. I am using the front spindles and all brake parts from the 77. I think the disc on the front are 12"...I could be wrong. Just like the 67 your people have...mine has no options. I am keeping it that way. I dont want any power robbed from the motor.

[slomotion]

Talk the boy into an '80's V8 "hot rod" truck and buy the '67 to restore.
Maybe I'm getting mellow in my old age, but it seems a shame to do all that to a survivor. If the '67 was rougher and really needed a lot to bring it back, I'd agree to do the mods, but a good running six in a good body is rarer than the 350/350 slammed short fleet.
JMO no offense to anyone intended.

[streetstar]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=262961


This link above is to one of the board members trucks that is what i was referring to when i said , "Resto-mod" style . Exterior appears to be nicely restored, yet it is obviously bagged -- wheels are still 6 lug too, which is cool when you compare it to the countless amount of Torq thrust 5 spokers on here. Engine is a slicked out TPI. Your truck would likely be worth more restored in this manner than taken back to a "chalk stripes on the firewall" restoration, because it is a lower optioned model.

The higher optioned CST and Cheyenne trucks , as well as the Sierra Grande GMC's are the ones that are worth restoring back to a true stock restoration.

Have fun man -- you can get away with a lot more on a resto-mod truck restoration (bags, 20's, etc) than you can a nice mustang or vette restoration (until the money runs out that is)