carrier/support bearing

[53sparks]

Someone posted a good after market one here a while back, does anyone know of it or is the one i get at the parts store just as good? also the parts store they have 2 different diameter does any one know where they used what? I have a 68 gmc big block long box, Thanks Guys Ron

[53sparks]

i should add mine is a auto matic tranny 400

[Longhorn Man]

I hear too many bad things said about the parts store C-bearings.
i say go to a drive shaft place and get a quality unit, and I also recomend having them install it... no hammers or anything when they do it, they have the right presses and know 100% what they are doing... it's all they do.

[JVictor75]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I hear too many bad things said about the parts store C-bearings.
i say go to a drive shaft place and get a quality unit, and I also recomend having them install it... no hammers or anything when they do it, they have the right presses and know 100% what they are doing... it's all they do.

Plus a bazillion to what he said! That being said, everybody check this link out!

http://dicksdriveshaft.com/specials.html

Go to the bottom of the page and look at the aftermarket carrier bearing/back half of the two piece driveshaft. He sells both the carrier and back half of the shaft together for $200. And it's a good quality piece! If you have any questions about the piece, he (Dick) is a cool old dude and personally answers the phone # listed about half of the time.

Having said before that I've owned nothing but LWB 67-72 chevy trucks, I cannot (and refuse to) count on both hands and both feet how many damned AutoZone/El Cheapo parts store carrier bearings I've replaced thru the years.

Because the latest truck (the rotted out 1971 in my sig) was lowered 2" front 4" rear, I'd get about a good six to eight months out of an AutoZone C-bearing before the driveshaft would THUNK when putting the truck in gear.

His new carrier design corrects this problem by getting rid of the rubber and replacing it with a huge ring bearing. And the rear half of the driveshaft is a "slip" design (bear with me, I'll explain as best I can), so the front half of the D/S doesn't move at all other than to rotate.

The rear half does all of the movement up and down as well as "slipping" up and down on itself to correct binding problems and issues with lowering the truck without shortening/lengthening the D/S.

Does that make sense? If not, give them a call and they'll explain it way better than I can. All I know is that it certainly feels like the truck is shifting/driving a lot easier now.

I can and will personally vouch for this piece.

I know that doesn't mean just a whole hell of a lot to everybody. Especially since nobody knows me and I'm a relative "newbie" around here, but that's my .02.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

get a dana spicer unit and it will last 4 ever. if you,ve got a factory bbc engine you,ll need the large bearing, most $$$$$$ one

[53sparks]

i have never replaced one before, i thought it was as simple as remove and replace, is there a lot of adjustment? Thanks again Ron

[RicksTrucks]

The one in my 69 SWB went out a few weeks ago, just broke off. Went to the local parts store and bought one. Just looking at it I knew it wouldn't last long - spot welds were bad, but put it on anyway. Broke in two days. Took both shafts to the local driveshaft place, had them balance them, put new u-joints and one of their carriers (it was like my first one, a lot stronger). Working good so far.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

you gotta have apress to remove and install bearing correctly. hammers hurt it very easyily. you also need a sleeve that just fits and applys all pressure to bearing side at drive shaft. hard to explain. you ought to replace one in a semi truck if you want a workout. its huge.
bob

[matthufham]

i got one from oreilys and other than it immediately rusting, the install was easy and it's been 5000 miles so far, or a half year you could say.

[RicksTrucks]

O'Reilly's is the one that fell apart on me and it was the expensive one that they had.

[dan42]

Here's an old thread with some good info - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=229826