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11-14-2007, 07:14 PM | #1 |
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010 block?
my buddy got a 72 GMC grande from his grandpa.
its got this 010 block he calls it, says that it means its a high nickel content block...making it alot tougher then other 350's is there any truth to this?
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11-14-2007, 07:22 PM | #2 |
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Re: 010 block?
Not really -- makes for good bench racing ammo however.
No effect on performance whatsoever, but The block might be marginally tougher when it comes to core shifting and things like that - which would come into play if you had to rebuild it multiple times, ----- but most people are much more concerned with whether a block is 2 or 4 bolt mains. |
11-14-2007, 07:30 PM | #3 |
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Re: 010 block?
They wear a little better having the higher nickel content, but streetstar is right, its no real big difference. The pre '76 blocks are a better than the later light casted block in terms of cracking, but if you are building a mild, street driven engine, there's no bad 350's.
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11-14-2007, 07:27 PM | #4 |
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Re: 010 block?
its a 2 bolt main...i tried to tell him that it was all the really mattered aha...
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- Jason If you can turn, Youre not going fast enough. Favorite caption: first car to 200 mph in the 1/4 mile, no parachute, drum brakes all the way around.. ..back when men were men. |
11-14-2007, 07:32 PM | #5 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 010 block?
if it is a 10 20 block, then it is in fact a high nickle, and is in fact tough as nails.
The caddy big blocks are high nickle, and I've opened uip motors with 100,000 miles, and have little to no ridge at the top of the cylinder... not even enough to catch a fingernail. Even seen 2 100,000 mile cad motors, where you could see a faint reminance of the cross hatch from the honing process. Ppl that work in machine shops will tell you they can HEAR the difference when they bore them out. |
11-14-2007, 07:32 PM | #6 | |
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Re: 010 block?
supposedly, an 010 020 block is a high tin/ high nickle content block. i have one here, 2 bolt main, 010 020... pistons are worn completly out, and 5 of them had both compression rings broke. not a single scratch or ridge on the cylinder.
now with that said,i dont think a 3970010 block is neccasirly an 010 block, it has to have 010 020 under the timing cover and above the oil filter
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
Last edited by Blue_71; 11-14-2007 at 07:37 PM. |
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11-14-2007, 07:40 PM | #7 |
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Re: 010 block?
that is corect tho 010 at the end of the casting number is a sure way to tell you have a 4" bore block, either a 327 or 350 and the 010 and 020 under the timing chain cover designates the extra tin and nickel
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11-14-2007, 08:53 PM | #8 |
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Re: 010 block?
yep 010 & 020 best there is in production blocks
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11-14-2007, 11:40 PM | #9 |
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Re: 010 block?
So i have a 3970010 4 bolt main block that i have been saving for years, and have never heard of the marking under the timing cover and above the oil filter. But i just went and looked at it and it has the 010 marking under the timing cover but i dont see any of these marking near the oil filter. Found some markings, just not the right numbers. Am i looking in the right spot? Does anybody have any pics?
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11-15-2007, 03:32 PM | #10 | |
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Re: 010 block?
Quote:
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11-15-2007, 05:31 AM | #11 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 010 block?
honestly, I've never heard it was supposed to by by the oil filter too.
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11-15-2007, 06:28 AM | #12 |
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Re: 010 block?
I have seen several with the oiul filter number but not all have it. They only stamped the 010 or whatever there.
I've had four 010's myself and wouldn't trade them for ANY newer block. Most rebuilders will tell you that those are the best Chevy blocks. That said the performance level is the same, it's just a better quality block.
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11-15-2007, 08:00 AM | #13 |
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Re: 010 block?
Here is a shot of the 350 block I used to make my 383.
It is out of a 1971 Monte Carlo. It has 2-bolt mains. Don't kill yourself if you don't have a 4-bolt main block, for most of our applications it is beyond overkill. I only added the completely assembled 383 picture because I like looking at fresh engines. Ain't she pretty?
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11-15-2007, 08:24 AM | #14 |
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Re: 010 block?
Its also on the back of the block. My GMC Serra Grande came with this block also 4 bolt mains. Sorry I don't have the picture of the rear that shows the numbers. Looks just like the front just bigger.
s/t
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11-16-2007, 12:11 AM | #15 |
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Re: 010 block?
Mine only has the 010 marking. It is on the rear of the block also. So is this block worth building or should i keep loking for a better block?
Jason |
11-16-2007, 09:16 AM | #16 |
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Re: 010 block?
There really is no better 350 block....as long as it is not cracked....build it!
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11-16-2007, 10:26 AM | #17 |
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Re: 010 block?
You still got a good block so build it.
I think the only times the high nickel might make any difference is if you were building a high hp engine or if you were gonna bore it .060. |
11-16-2007, 04:09 PM | #18 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 010 block?
or if you want it to last 100,000 miles with little to no wear.
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11-16-2007, 05:12 PM | #19 |
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Re: 010 020 block?
The 350 in my 68 SWB has a block with "010" "020" numbers behind the timing chain had them as well by the oil filter as stated above.
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05-30-2009, 10:06 AM | #20 |
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Re: 010 block?
ok, opening up an old conversation here...
Rebuilding the my 350 and found only "010" under the timing cover but then found "010" and "020" by the oil filter. I think later I'll do a bit more research for curiosity sake... maybe it means I have the block with high tin/nickel/kryptonite content?!
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05-30-2009, 12:25 PM | #21 |
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Re: 010 block?
I`d like to know.
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05-30-2009, 12:41 PM | #22 |
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Re: 010 block?
The tin/nickle has nothing to do with core shift. Core shift ONLY happens at or before casting the block. Its when a "sand core" moves out of position druing or before the steel is poured. Core shift after is a cracked block.
Core shift during boring or any other time is just a wives tale. The core shifted during casting and you just found out when you bored it out. Or busted the block. I worked in a foundry in Bridgeport CT for a few years and never have I seen a core shift after the cast. Seen a lot before and during but never after its cooled and cleaned. Last edited by dwcsr; 05-30-2009 at 12:42 PM. |
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