Bedwood Finish - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

OhioDan · 10-09-2002, 06:54 PM

I just have one question for those that have put new wood in their beds. After ya get it all nice and the way ya want it, how do you get out all those minor imperfections? i.e. dust in your finish. I'm just about there, and I've been wondering about that. Any suggestions, ideas? I don't know if you can see it in these pics?

Thanx in advance.

OhioDan · 10-09-2002, 06:56 PM

And another.

OhioDan · 10-09-2002, 07:00 PM

One more.

Brewski* · 10-09-2002, 07:23 PM

Wet Sand with xxxxfine sand paper and finish coat in a dust proof enviroment (paint booth for example). You can also use an epoxy clearcoat that is a little thicker and quick torch the bubbles. This is how they get those nice clear table tops at HOOTERS~!

colohusker · 10-09-2002, 07:36 PM

Hooters has tables? Always thought it was just the seat to sit on, and the floor to hold my tongue.

If the dust spots are in the last couple of coats, might also try some 0000 steel wool. If they were in the first couple of coats, go with sandpaper and final finish.

slam33 · 10-09-2002, 10:49 PM

That Looks like a varnish. Never shake the can before you use it. You will get bubbles in the finish.

Kman · 10-09-2002, 11:03 PM

I just sand with 220 with the grain blow it off then wipe it down with a tac cloth apply top coat in as dust free place as possible when you have one board coated take your brush and tip out varnish lightly from one end to the other by draging brush over surface this will help to flow out the varnish and remove bubbles and dust IMO

OhioDan · 10-10-2002, 04:25 AM

No, it's not a varnish. It's Polyurethane, with ultra UV protection. Clear, gloss finish. The can says it's for outside use. Sounds like it was made to do the wood in truck beds? I sand between each coat with 220 grit paper, wipe it down with a tack cloth, and use the tip of the brush to smooth it out after each coat. It still gets like tiny bumps (dust?) after each coat. I don't have access to a paint booth. There has to be something I can do to get the smooth finish I'm looking for? Or am I just expecting to much? Here's another pic after last night.

Cheesewagon · 10-10-2002, 07:51 AM

If your using Poly thats meant for outside use, its hard to get the finish perfect. What I do is after sanding with 320 grit ( between coats), is vacumm, and then use your tack cloth. I always wait about 10 mins. after I've done my sanding to do the vacumm, then 10 mins. after that I tack everything done. This lets what ever dust is in the air settle done to the floor. You could also dampen the floor area where your finishing to control the dust. The problem with using steelwool is that it's very hard to get all the fine particles off the surface. In the past I've used a magamet to remove the steelwool particles. Also make sure you coat all your edges on the wood surface, any area left un-coated will leave moist air into the wood, which in turn will lift your finish coat off the top edges. I'm sorry for so long a post, but I thought my expericnce in furinture restoratation would never help out on this forum. Your finish is looking great so far, if you need any other help on this just PM me, Tom.

jmil1974 · 10-10-2002, 08:27 AM

A buddy of mine used to do this when he painted in his garage.
Hose down the floor with a fan/AC blowing. Turn air off and let it settle. Hose down again. This should help substantially in your battle against dust. I guess you could mop too, just use plenty of water. Works like when construction sites hose down the ground only it works even better on concrete. You can even hang tarps up for walls and wet the insides of those too. Good luck!

Kman · 10-10-2002, 06:34 PM

Don't use steel wool on exterior work the particals of steel left behind will rust, you can use bronze wool we use it on yacht refinishing. You could wet sand it and spray clear coat over the polyurethane its more work and money but it will give the best gloss or wet sand and buff out with paste wax like is used on gym floors you wet sand out imperfections and the wax brings out the shine my 2c

OhioDan · 10-12-2002, 05:12 AM

Thanx for all the response on this problem. I'll try some/most/all of them to get the finish I want. See ya'll somewhere on the road.

10-09-2002, 06:54 PM	#1
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Bedwood Finish I just have one question for those that have put new wood in their beds. After ya get it all nice and the way ya want it, how do you get out all those minor imperfections? i.e. dust in your finish. I'm just about there, and I've been wondering about that. Any suggestions, ideas? I don't know if you can see it in these pics? Thanx in advance. Attached Images __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-09-2002, 06:56 PM	#2
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	And another. Attached Images __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-09-2002, 07:00 PM	#3
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	One more. Attached Images __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-09-2002, 07:36 PM	#5
colohusker Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 436	Hooters has tables? Always thought it was just the seat to sit on, and the floor to hold my tongue. If the dust spots are in the last couple of coats, might also try some 0000 steel wool. If they were in the first couple of coats, go with sandpaper and final finish. __________________ ------------------------------------------------ I say it's only money, my wife says it's only a truck.... '71 C10 Deluxe, factory ac, ps, pb, should be done by 2102 Longmont, CO husker95@hotmail.com

10-09-2002, 10:49 PM	#6
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	That Looks like a varnish. Never shake the can before you use it. You will get bubbles in the finish. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

10-09-2002, 07:23 PM	#4
Brewski* Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Rocky Mount, MO Posts: 1,293	Wet Sand with xxxxfine sand paper and finish coat in a dust proof enviroment (paint booth for example). You can also use an epoxy clearcoat that is a little thicker and quick torch the bubbles. This is how they get those nice clear table tops at HOOTERS~!

10-09-2002, 11:03 PM	#7
Kman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne,Florida Posts: 174	wood finish I just sand with 220 with the grain blow it off then wipe it down with a tac cloth apply top coat in as dust free place as possible when you have one board coated take your brush and tip out varnish lightly from one end to the other by draging brush over surface this will help to flow out the varnish and remove bubbles and dust IMO

10-10-2002, 04:25 AM	#8
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	No, it's not a varnish. It's Polyurethane, with ultra UV protection. Clear, gloss finish. The can says it's for outside use. Sounds like it was made to do the wood in truck beds? I sand between each coat with 220 grit paper, wipe it down with a tack cloth, and use the tip of the brush to smooth it out after each coat. It still gets like tiny bumps (dust?) after each coat. I don't have access to a paint booth. There has to be something I can do to get the smooth finish I'm looking for? Or am I just expecting to much? Here's another pic after last night. Attached Images __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-10-2002, 07:51 AM	#9
Cheesewagon Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Perrysburg, Ohio, USA Posts: 409	If your using Poly thats meant for outside use, its hard to get the finish perfect. What I do is after sanding with 320 grit ( between coats), is vacumm, and then use your tack cloth. I always wait about 10 mins. after I've done my sanding to do the vacumm, then 10 mins. after that I tack everything done. This lets what ever dust is in the air settle done to the floor. You could also dampen the floor area where your finishing to control the dust. The problem with using steelwool is that it's very hard to get all the fine particles off the surface. In the past I've used a magamet to remove the steelwool particles. Also make sure you coat all your edges on the wood surface, any area left un-coated will leave moist air into the wood, which in turn will lift your finish coat off the top edges. I'm sorry for so long a post, but I thought my expericnce in furinture restoratation would never help out on this forum. Your finish is looking great so far, if you need any other help on this just PM me, Tom. __________________ '91 suburban 350 TBI - R 700 4 new daily driver '72 Cheyenne Super 49,000miles 350/350 frame up resto w/ matching numbers.

10-10-2002, 08:27 AM	#10
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	A buddy of mine used to do this when he painted in his garage. Hose down the floor with a fan/AC blowing. Turn air off and let it settle. Hose down again. This should help substantially in your battle against dust. I guess you could mop too, just use plenty of water. Works like when construction sites hose down the ground only it works even better on concrete. You can even hang tarps up for walls and wet the insides of those too. Good luck! __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

10-10-2002, 06:34 PM	#11
Kman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne,Florida Posts: 174	Don't use steel wool on exterior work the particals of steel left behind will rust, you can use bronze wool we use it on yacht refinishing. You could wet sand it and spray clear coat over the polyurethane its more work and money but it will give the best gloss or wet sand and buff out with paste wax like is used on gym floors you wet sand out imperfections and the wax brings out the shine my 2c

10-12-2002, 05:12 AM	#12
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Thanx for all the response on this problem. I'll try some/most/all of them to get the finish I want. See ya'll somewhere on the road. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.



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