Brake Drum 14 bolt axle

[Bernie]

Is there any special trick for getting the brake drums off a 14 bolt axle ? I've been trying all morning and nothing seems to want to move.

[racin69z]

If it is a 14 bolt full floater, You have to take it off much like you would on a 4x4 front end.

First you take off the axle retaining bolts around the center hub, then you use a 6 prong hub socket to loosen the bearing nuts, and then take off the drum/hub assembly.

Lynn

[Bernie]

Thanks for the relply. That is today's task.

[racin69z]

No problem, I didn't see your other post till just now. It's not too bad of a job, but nothing like a 12 bolt!

[eric67m]

Im bringing this post back because I have a simular problem.

I have a 3/4 ton Full floater SMALL DRUM. One brake is locked up and will not turn. I have pulled the axle out of the housing. The drum will not slide/pound off. I believe that the brakes are stuck on. The ebrake has been cut (might need to be cut off closer to the back plate. This small drum version does not have a slot to back out the brake adjuster.

Am I missing something or how do I get this brake drum off?

[Bernie]

I've never done this myself, but I was told once that you can drill out the hold down pins from the back of the back plate and then pull the drum off and the shoes etc will come with it.
Hope this helps.

[eric67m]

I have drilled out the hold down pins and removed the bolts from the back of the wheel cylinder. This allowed the drum to move out another 3/8". I am not sure if the emergency brake line is rusted in the on position. I may try to cut it off closer to the backplate. Maybe I need a bigger BFH? There are two slots out by the brake shoes, possibly I could pry the shoes in?

[Bernie]

On mine there were two bolts which held the parking brake cable to the backing plate. these were bolts and the whole thing turned when I tried to unscrew it from the outside. Maybe your's is rusted tight so that you could undo them or maybe you could drill out the head that sticks through the backing plate. At worst, the only things that you won't replace are the drums and backing plate so you don't have much to lose by levering on the brake shoes.

[Longhorn Man]

I would try instaling the wheel again, and see if you can use the leverage ro rotate the wheel... rearward would be easier, or maybe a spud bar hooked into the lugs. If that fails, a bigger hammer and beat the hell outta the drum.

[1969 GMC]

I have resorted to torching and using grinders to take drums off before. There may be better, more intelligent ways, but they don't allow me to blow off steam as well.

[OldCreek]

Certainly, the shoes may be 'rusted' to the drum. You could try to spray some wd40/rust dissolver into the drum/shoe surface. Drilling the pins sounds like a good idea to get some more room but the p.b. leverage bar will probably stick to the wheel cylinder link pin and keep it from moving out more. also, the shoe star retainer bar at the top will keep it from sliding out also. unbolting the p.b. cable will help also.

In the end, you'll probably just have to do what I did.... use a BFH and large screwdriver. Oh yeah, sticking the screwdriver into the backing plate slots can help pry the shoes off of the drum.

Don't worry, you'll probably end up replacing everything inside anyways. Just don't jack up the backing plate or throw out some of the important inner pieces.... i.e. pb leverage bar and spring, link pin, and star shaped shoe retainer.