How (hard) to drain and fill tranny including converter? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jmil1974 · 10-15-2002, 04:21 PM

I got 10 quarts o' fluid. Will that be enough? I'll be doing this with the motor out (swapping it). Is there anything else I should do while I am in there?

**COBALT** · 10-15-2002, 06:31 PM

That's plenty.

1. Check your converter neck for wear. That will indicate if you need a new bushing in your front pump and a new converter. If its grooved you have some more work to do. If not you're cool.

2. I'd replace your front and back main seals just as a matter of course since the front pump is exposed.

3. Replace your filter and your pan gasket. Think about either putting in a drain plug, or get a new pan with one in it.

3. Pour 1 qt into your converter before you put it back on your tranny, and make sure its seated completely into the pump before you bolt the engine to it (there's a measurement from the converter flex plate hole-to-tranny flange that tells you if its totally seated. For 400s its 7/8". I don't know what it is for 350s). If its not in all the way you could mess up your pump.

That's all my brain is telling me.

Oh yeah, get a tranny book on the 350. Read it. You'll be happy you did.

cableguy0 · 10-15-2002, 08:47 PM

the best thing to do is drill a hole in the converter and put a drain plug in it. or wait till its all back together and have the transmission flushed at a shop.it does wonders and every last drop of old fluid is taken out of the tranny. basically its a machine that gets hooked to ur tranny cooler lines that has two tanks on it
one for new fluiod and one for the incoming old fluid. with the vechile idling in park the machine sends new fluid in one line and the tranny pump pushes the old out of the other line. the transmission never runs low on fluid through the entire process

jmil1974 · 10-15-2002, 09:13 PM

Thanks, guys. Mucho thanks!

neonlarry · 10-15-2002, 10:46 PM

it's not a big deal, but to get the bolts out of the tranny pan, you have to unbolt the tranny from the crossmember and jack it up about an inch

1-PU70 · 10-16-2002, 12:32 AM

If your changing the front and rear seals then change the bushings too.

Patrick Sullivan · 10-16-2002, 01:59 AM

Quote:

it's not a big deal, but to get the bolts out of the tranny pan, you have to unbolt the tranny from the crossmember and jack it up about an inch

Well, you don't have to, if you like spending half an hour taking 2 bolts out. That said, I've never messed with the crossmember, and I've dropped the tranny pan more than once.

gabet40 · 10-16-2002, 02:18 AM

i was wondering this also. so the easiest way to drain it is to take off the tranny pan and catch as much fluid as you can? what about all the fluid in the lines and coolers?

**ScottH** · 10-16-2002, 09:32 AM

What's involved with changing the front seal and bushings (tranny out already)? Also, can these parts be bought at your local parts store?

Thanks.

crazy longhorn · 10-16-2002, 10:09 AM

The front seal is no problem, I cut a lenght of 3" ex tubing to use as a driver. The pump bushing is another story tho......you need to remove the pump,separate the 2 halves,& use a bushing driver to install the bushing. .....crazy longhorn

10-15-2002, 04:21 PM	#1
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	How (hard) to drain and fill tranny including converter? I got 10 quarts o' fluid. Will that be enough? I'll be doing this with the motor out (swapping it). Is there anything else I should do while I am in there? __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

10-15-2002, 06:31 PM	#2
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	That's plenty. 1. Check your converter neck for wear. That will indicate if you need a new bushing in your front pump and a new converter. If its grooved you have some more work to do. If not you're cool. 2. I'd replace your front and back main seals just as a matter of course since the front pump is exposed. 3. Replace your filter and your pan gasket. Think about either putting in a drain plug, or get a new pan with one in it. 3. Pour 1 qt into your converter before you put it back on your tranny, and make sure its seated completely into the pump before you bolt the engine to it (there's a measurement from the converter flex plate hole-to-tranny flange that tells you if its totally seated. For 400s its 7/8". I don't know what it is for 350s). If its not in all the way you could mess up your pump. That's all my brain is telling me. Oh yeah, get a tranny book on the 350. Read it. You'll be happy you did. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

10-15-2002, 08:47 PM	#3
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	the best thing to do is drill a hole in the converter and put a drain plug in it. or wait till its all back together and have the transmission flushed at a shop.it does wonders and every last drop of old fluid is taken out of the tranny. basically its a machine that gets hooked to ur tranny cooler lines that has two tanks on it one for new fluiod and one for the incoming old fluid. with the vechile idling in park the machine sends new fluid in one line and the tranny pump pushes the old out of the other line. the transmission never runs low on fluid through the entire process __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

10-15-2002, 09:13 PM	#4
jmil1974 Ain't we cute? Join Date: May 2002 Location: Friendswood, TX Posts: 700	Thanks, guys. Mucho thanks! __________________ 69 C10 2WD LWB Fleet 350/350 power front disc conversion (6 lug disc kit from gmcpauls) and new engine, PS, A/C, fresh fluids, SHE DRIVES! FOR SALE $3900

10-15-2002, 10:46 PM	#5
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,745	it's not a big deal, but to get the bolts out of the tranny pan, you have to unbolt the tranny from the crossmember and jack it up about an inch __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

10-16-2002, 12:32 AM	#6
1-PU70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 1,036	If your changing the front and rear seals then change the bushings too. __________________ 1970 CST/10 402,700R4,3:73 posi,AC,PS,PB,TLT,PW,Buckets with heaters

10-16-2002, 02:18 AM	#8
gabet40 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 565	i was wondering this also. so the easiest way to drain it is to take off the tranny pan and catch as much fluid as you can? what about all the fluid in the lines and coolers? __________________ Current owner of 2016 2500 Silverado Midnight Edition. Former owner of: 69 1/2 ton, change from long/fleet to short/fleet, shaved door handles, shaved tailgate, 4/6 drop, power windows, 700r4 72 blazer, 350 with Holley Commander 950 DFI, crane energizer cam, 350 tranny, dual sanderson blockhuggers/magnaflow exhaust

10-16-2002, 09:32 AM	#9
ScottH Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Hampstead, NC Posts: 8,190	What's involved with changing the front seal and bushings (tranny out already)? Also, can these parts be bought at your local parts store? Thanks.

10-16-2002, 10:09 AM	#10
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	The front seal is no problem, I cut a lenght of 3" ex tubing to use as a driver. The pump bushing is another story tho......you need to remove the pump,separate the 2 halves,& use a bushing driver to install the bushing. .....crazy longhorn



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