If i tightened my lift springs too much would it make the suspension stiffer?

[cstanley]

As many of you know, I installed a 4" spring lift on the 'chicken a while back. It rides pretty stiff now, and doesn't seem to have much flex. even if I sit on the hood (220 lbs) it doesn't dip or budge at all.

Could I have tightened the spring eyes too much? can they safely be loosened a bit? They were very tight to install in the first place... maybe if i threw that 5.9 cummins in there it would be just about right.

2nd question: There is a little triangular-shaped bracket attached to the bottom of my frame, driver's side just behind the front spring's rear eye, and it seems to be there to prevent the spring from flexing to the rear. should this be removed? It seems that the spring would have more room to flex if it weren't there. There is not one on the pass. side, nor does there appear to ever have been.

thanks everyone!

[Mudder]

BDS told me to loosen mine and drive it for a hour or so flexing it as much as possible and even bouncing it beforeI tighten things up.

[Yukon Jack]

I'm not sure I understand what they are telling you to do. Do you mean let the shackle bolts and front spring hanger bolts be a little loose, then drive it around then tighten those?

I can't understand why they would be recommending that. Properly torqued those are designed to let the springs work the shackle.

[cstanley]

hmm...
well, i guess i didn't follow instructions very well. I tightened the stuff out of mine before I put it back on the ground, so maybe they've really never settled in...

anyone have any ideas about that bracket I questioned in my OP? Not sure if I have a pic, but I'll check or get one later tonight.

[1969K10]

Originally Posted by cstanley

anyone have any ideas about that bracket I questioned in my OP? Not sure if I have a pic, but I'll check or get one later tonight.

That bracket is to prevent the stock springs from moving to much. I doubt it is of any value to you now.

[Yukon Jack]

I've seen posts about the bracket mentioned. I don't remember it's specific purpose but I recall reading about people removing it. Neither of my trucks had that bracket.

When I initially responded to this post, for some reason I only saw Mudder's post and thought that was the initial post. Now that I see your question, yes you could have tightened those bolts too much and created a bind situation.

I'm using ORD's greasable bolts at each spring eye and shackle eye and they sure are nice, something for you to look into. I can't find the torque spec for those bolts but someone might be able to help on that issue.

[mosesburb]

The springs you installed have a much higher spring rate than the ones you removed making them much stiffer. Also, they have a positive arch as opposed to the negative arch that you removed. Positive arch will ride stiffer than negative arch. What you are describing sounds like a pretty normal ride after lifting.
Most of the lift springs for these trucks have ridiculously high spring rates. I think the lowest I found was Tough Country EZ Ride with a rate of around 495lb/in. Rancho springs were around (IIRC) 850lb/in. Most springs were closer to Rancho's numbers than TC's numbers. I have no idea why the springs for our trucks are made with such a high rate when the '73 and up trucks are significantly lower. The '73+ springs are also a couple inches longer which helps out quite a bit as well.

[Mudder]

BDS told me that they dip their springs in paint before they are sent out making them stick together sometimes. They said to do what I said in the other post to break them loose and to let them settle in before tightening.

[cstanley]

Originally Posted by Mudder

BDS told me that they dip their springs in paint before they are sent out making them stick together sometimes. They said to do what I said in the other post to break them loose and to let them settle in before tightening.

ok, i'll try that. thanks. also, these are the Tuff Country EZ Ride springs. Ya'll are right, though. it seems like these could be made a little softer.

[Zoomad75]

I've always torqued suspension bolts with the weight of the truck on the suspension. Torquing without the weight on it can cause a bind with the bushings that could limit movement. I've seen some that actually caused a difference in ride height side to side.

With the weight on the suspension, loosen (not remove, just enough to take the bind off) the spring eye and shackle bolts. I'd squeech some white spray grease in at the bolt/bushings and take a SLOW ride around the block to get the suspension to move and then torque the bolts back up to spec.

The leafs may be sticking too, but leaving the spring eye bolts loose won't get them unstuck. You'll need to cycle the suspension to do that or you can take them back off, pop the spring clamps and unstick them manually. I'd go with driving it first. With the spring eye binding taken care of the springs should be able to wear in a little. It should soften up over some drives.

[barraza]

The bracket is a stop for the spring to go against if the front spring bolt breaks. You would still have steering control because the bracket will keep the spring from moving too far. The reasoning is that the front leaf bolt takes all the steering force since the drag link moves fore and aft. There is usually a strap enclosing the front spring pocket only on the drivers side that performs the job in front. It is questionable whether it would it function as designed, but there isn't any reason to remove it, a properly sized spring should never hit it.

Stiff springs? Join the club. Most commonly available lift springs have insanely high spring rates. My next set will be custom made.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by barraza

Stiff springs? Join the club. Most commonly available lift springs have insanely high spring rates. My next set will be custom made.

Try a set of Alcans, they ride amazingly well.

[Yukon Jack]

Maybe a couple "Dukes Of Hazard" jumps would loosen the spring pack