Starting Problem..Headache

[HotGMC]

ok, so i have had this starting problem for awhile now. the truck starts up fine, i go out , stop and start it mabye twice(but i dont think it has anything to do with heat, driving), and when i go and start it it gives me one little crank, and then just stops, and when i try it again, does the same thing but weaker.

First time i had it towed, they tested my battery and said it was good. then when i went and had it tested again, it was not stable enough to test.

I got a newbattery, started right up ran for awhikle, and later that day did the same thing. i finially had it towed to a shop for them to look at. they determined that was it my voltage regulator, and fixed it. said my starter and alternator was fine.

so i get my truck back, starts up, sounds like its running fine. i drive it for a few hours, start and stop it like 3 or 4 times. and on my last errand i finish it up, go to start it and the same thing happend. well i end up calling pep boys, i got my truck towed back there, and they said they will look into it..

They pretty much said they didnt notice anything else, besides that.. they check everything that has to do with the starting system.. Could it be some faulty wiring or something?

I dont think its a battery drain, because i have tried to jump it when it didnt start the second time, and with no avail, it did not work, one bit.

Should i just put in a new starter and see if somethin keeps happening with the current one.. it just seems to be the only thing i can of...


any advice would be helpful, thanks in advance, and sorry if it seems all jumbled.

[chevy72blu]

Go ahead and and do a quick check of your wiring, though it doesnt sound to me like a wiring issue. Are you running headers or manifolds? It sounds like textbook heatsoak to me. You can install a heatshield between your exhaust and starter motor to prevent this; I dont recommend header wraps on a daily driver. Throw one on it and see if that fixes your problem. If not, keep it when you replace the starter and prolong it's life.

Im not sure if long term exposure to heat will kill a starter or not, but it would sure seem like it would.

[superman3405]

I had the same problem with my truck before I put the new motor in it. That fixes it by the way...But I ran into a guy down the road from me who was having the same problems he put a new distributor in it and it never had a problem. Still have no idea how that fixed it. Maybe itll work for you

[HotGMC]

i do run headers, some shorty ones, they are pretty old, i dont know if it makes a difference. they tested the starter though, said it was ok. i figure its a machine, if it stops working, it stops working.

[corn]

Check your timing. You may have it a little too advanced. My 396 likes lots of total advance & it will kick & buck a little when it gets warm too. Usually just back off the key & hit it again & it will start...

[LockDoc]

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I was having the same type of problem with the White truck (454 BB) and I think the solenoid or starter was getting too hot and not working right. I picked up a gear drive starter for it and haven't had a problem since....

LockDoc

[haysonj]

I would change the solenoid on the starter they can go bad from the heat. They also can get spots inside from arcing then it doesn't make good contact you could take it apart and clean it but they are so cheap I'd just buy another one

[Longhorn321]

I agree that timing could be an issue but I would say that your problem sounds more like the timing is too far advanced. However, it also could be a high resistance problem. If you have a volt meter, check the voltage drop from the positive post (center of the post) to the starter solenoid lug. It will probably be fine until you turn the key to start it. If you see more than a half of a volt or so, you have some resistance sucking up voltage somewhere. When you have finished the positive side, do the same thing on the negative side. Check the voltage drop from the engine block to the negative post (center of the post). Again if you have more than a half of a volt or so, you are losing voltage to some resistance somewhere (ground strap to the engine?). Heat will definitly play a part in the resistance changing.

[tll74]

Defiately sounds like heat soak to me. Try putting a late model starter from a 96-up Chevy truck 305-350-454. These are inline gear reduction, half the size, more power and come with a heat sheild installed. You will need to get bolts too, they will be shorter. A 40.00 piece used at a salvage yard. I use these on my circle track race car with a 406 and my 85 K20 with a 383. No problems

[eric67m]

Did you swap out to a HEI? If you did that and did not swap out the inline resistance wire going to the distributor it might do this. Delivers 12V when cold and reduces voltage when warmed up. Battery would test ok and the system would work when it cooled down (at the repair shop). Just a thought.

[dadsbrew]

If the timing is retarded to much you will have the same problem, at least I did with mine.

[orgalmeister]

Definitely check the battery cables... old ones can and will build resistance. That's what fixed mine a few years back.

[HotGMC]

gear drive starter?

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by HotGMC

gear drive starter?

I believe they're called "gear reduction starter." I thought about one for my truck until I looked the cost... They're a bit pricey unless you can find one in the junkyard.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...9&CATID=4.html

[dirtyd_nd]

I just fixed the same problem 2 weeks ago. All the same things you stated. Mine was the battery cable. It had a few burn spots in it. As soon as it was replaced the engine cranks up right away. Before, when starting it, it would take a few times. Not now.
Dale

[WorkinLonghorn]

So what is your initial timing set at?

[Shyguy]

I had the same problems with my GMC dump truck. I replaced both cables with newer heavy duty ones and made sure there was a good ground.

Now it turns over good and starts quickly.

Danny - Southeast Missouri

[Stocker]

Lots of good ideas -- here's one more. As Longhorn 321 said, too far advanced will make it hard to turn the engine over. Check for the distributor advance weights stuck in the full advanced position. Happened to me when my engine was being rebuilt, and it was very hard to start. Tapped the weights to break 'em loose, and been good ever since.

[HotGMC]

well i got it back today, the place had given up. couldnt gaurenty that replacing the starter would fix it. i had them replace that and the positive battery cable and now.. its working pretty good. starts up better than when i bought it. im hoping it will last, i will post another Update in a few days.

i am going to start another thread about what color im going to paint it. seeing if anyone has any purple trucks haha

[68gmsee]

That's great! Thanks for keeping us posted and letting us know if that fixes your problem. I've seen many times where the guys/gals from this site give some good advice and suggestions.

It's also a good idea to let the site readers know what fixed the problem. This helps others that my have the same or similar problems with their vehicles.

[HotGMC]

unless it will happen again, and its some faulty wiring. it was basically the starter, i think it was a kinda puzzle, but that was the biggest piece.

I think whoever said it might be the rotor worn, even though the machines say its ok was right. it runs better than when i got it, no hesitation. i just have to get used to the sorta loud wind from the starter when i start it, not used to the sound or the quick ness haha