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#1 |
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
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How do you remove the electrical plug on the back of the ignition switch?. Mine doesn't slide off like a regular connector. Do you have to pry it off with a screwdriver?
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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#2 |
Weapons Of Construction
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 1,095
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There should be two tabs you press in on the sides to remove it. Usually, you can press one of the tabs, rock the connector enough to keep the tab from clicking back into place and then do the other side. You will find this much easier if you remove the switch and harness from the dash before trying to pull the connector off.
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1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO |
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#3 |
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
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I tried this method and thought maybe I needed the screwdriver. I guess I'll try it again. Thanks
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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#4 |
Weapons Of Construction
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 1,095
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It wouldn't hurt to try a screwdriver to press the tabs in. They're pretty old and plastic, so they may even break. If they do, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I think the only reason they are so hard to remove was to prevent someone from stealing the truck with their own ignition switch.
Usually when I use a screwdriver to pull things apart I end up stabbing myself. ![]()
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1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO |
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#5 |
67-72 Addict!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
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Me too,LOL, that's why I haven't tried that yet.
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Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads |
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#6 |
GYRO GEARLOOSE
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA
Posts: 361
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You actually have to lift the tabs away from the switch. I use a medium flat screwdriver to raise one tab, rock the plug, then pry away the other tab. You can cut off the tabs if you need to pull the swutch a lot, but it is hard to align the connectors then.
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Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 14
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I may be misunderstanding your question but after you get the electrical connector unplugged, are you still wanting to remove the ignition switch? If so, this requires a small paper clip and some patience. There is a very small hole on the front where you insert the key. You have to insert the paperclip here and press in as you turn your key to the accessory position. This should essentially disconnect the switch from the containing ring so it can be removed. This took me a bit to get it but is the way to get it apart. Maybe somebody else has a better idea.
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