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10-23-2002, 11:35 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA
Posts: 157
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OEM oil pan
Hi all need some help. Reciently installed a new oil pan and gasket and is just won't seal. I used a napa oil pan and 1 piece blue gasket, well to get to the point it leaks at the timing chain cover and the real near the main. Its the oil pan seal not the main itself. My stupid brother JB welded the dam thing in place so not sure how hard it will be to change it out again cause he used a hammer to try to seal it also. Anyway i need to know who has / sells a stock oem oil pan, i have been told the one from napa is after market and won't sell correctly without a few mods. Also the timing chain cover is new also will i have to replace that also since JB is on it? I don't have the time to do it so i will be taking it in to a shop for repair. 70.00 ducks an hour for labor i will pay for parts does that sound fair for Anchorage , AK...if anyone here is in Anchorage that knows of a good place let me know or if you can do the work holler at me.
1970 chevy 350 auto 4x4 |
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10-24-2002, 01:48 AM
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#2 |
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Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Sounds like your first order of business is to repossess some wrenches.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. 
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10-24-2002, 06:43 AM
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
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You might try Summit. They sell a good line of oil pans, including the OEM style.
Jim |
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10-24-2002, 09:46 AM
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#4 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SOMERSET KY.
Posts: 6,425
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 WOW !!!! 70 DUCK AN HOUR IS A WHOLE LOT OF WATER FOUL!! I SURE HOPE YOU HAVE ONE OF THOSE AUTOMATIC DUCK PLUCKERS. IT WOULD TAKE ME ALL NIGHT TO PLUCK THAT MANY DUCKS. I FIGURE IF IT'S IN THE TRUCK IT WOULD BE .. SAY TWO HOURS TOTAL....... THATS 140 DUCKS!!!! IT'S TAKEN ME THE LAST THREE SEASONS TO SHOOT THAT MANY. MAYBE YOU COULD TALK HIM INTO TWO NICE DEER, OR ONE GOOD SIZED CARIBOO ,ALL BUTCHERED & PACKAGED??
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE.  THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES//LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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10-24-2002, 10:07 AM
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#5 |
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Keepin' It Stock
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Grand Island, Nebraska, USA
Posts: 554
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you should be able to remove the JB Weld with scotchbrite pad. It's tough epoxy, but it ain't steel. Don't know how much damage was done with the hammer, so that could be a problem. I've always used the four piece oil pan gaskets made by Felpro. The front and rear gaskets are rubber and the two sides are cork. The set comes with two rear gaskets - one is a little thicker than the other. To decide which one you need you put a straight edge across the bottom of the oil pan at the rear and measure from the bottom of the half circle up to the straight edge. If I remember right, if it measure 2 1/4" you use the thicker gasket, if it's 2 3/8" you use the thinner one - the instruction sheet will tell you for sure. I use permatex #2 to seal the front and rear gaskets to the block and the Permatex Ultra Blue RTV between the oil pan and the gasket. Also put RTV where the side gaskets and the end seals meet. Good Luck!
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72 Sierra Grande - Maych Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time. Last edited by johnnyp; 10-24-2002 at 03:58 PM. |
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