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Old 03-02-2008, 10:04 PM   #1
Chevyman680063
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Engine decision

I have one of the GM Goodwrench 350 crate engines in my truck that was in it when I got it back in '03 and it ran fine back then but now the thing leaks oil like crazy. It leaks oil from the back of the intake, from the timing chain cover, from the oil pan, from the valve covers, possibly from the rear seal, and it looks like it's leaking around the exhaust manifolds but that's probably just coming from the oil that's leaking from the valve covers and it's running down the side of the motor. The motor runs ok but it could also run alot better. I'd also like to put a larger cam in it because I love that lopey idle sound and wouldn't mind boosting the HP some. I was thinking about getting another GM Goodwrench 350 crate motor with 250hp 350 ft. lbs. of torque because I wasn't sure how much it would cost to pull the motor and have all the seals on the motor replaced plus to fix anything inside the motor that could be wrong. The motor also puts a little out the left exhaust with just a little bit of smoke but nothing really bad as far as the amount of smoke. I was wondering if you guys thought it would be better and cheaper to just have the motor pulled and replace all the seals, fix anything that's wrong in the motor, and put a larger cam in it, or just to put another crate motor like what's in it and later down the road put a larger cam in it. Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:15 PM   #2
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Re: Engine decision

Pull the motor, buy a gasket set amd get busy! You can also do the camshaft while you have it out. I would look at cleaning up what you have. I wish I would have done this. I am building a 350 mule motor for my truck until I have the funds and time to build a 396 or 402. I have about $1600.00 in the 350 because I like nice stuff and do not cut many corners... In the futre the 350 build will allow me to buy anoth truck project and give it a nice motor....
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Last edited by 70C10Step; 03-02-2008 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:15 PM   #3
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Re: Engine decision

i'd buy a gasket set if the engine runs good a couple of thousand dollars cheaper
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:22 PM   #4
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Re: Engine decision

Well I'm not really mechanically inclined when it comes to pulling apart a motor and putting it back together. The motor is sluggish and like I said, it puts (sounds like putz), out the left exhaust with a little smoke. It doesn't run as smooth as it should either. I use it as a daily driver and it gets me from point A to point B, but wouldn't take it out of town because I'm not sure just how well the motor would handle going long distances. I've thought about taking it to someone and let them look at it to see if all the internals are ok and replace the seals but am not sure of the cost of it plus most mechanics around here seem to not want to work on the old stuff.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:42 PM   #5
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Re: Engine decision

Okay I catch your drift now.... If you have to go the crate engine route, I would order one and install the cam shaft before installing it in the truck again. You cannot beat the Chevy crate motor price and warranty!!! If you can somebody please chime in...
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:06 PM   #6
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Re: Engine decision

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Originally Posted by 70C10Step View Post
Okay I catch your drift now.... If you have to go the crate engine route, I would order one and install the cam shaft before installing it in the truck again. You cannot beat the Chevy crate motor price and warranty!!! If you can somebody please chime in...
The only thing about going the crate engine route and then putting a different cam in it is wouldn't that void the warranty. Jegs has that GM Goodwrench 350 250hp 350 ft lbs. torque for around $1400-$1500 but Summit has it for around $1600 now for some reason. I work at a GM dealership and could probably get the 10% employee discount on the motor but I haven't checked yet to see what they would charge to order it from them. If the motor that's in the truck now is still good and only needs something minor in it replaced along with the seals and it would save me money then I wouldn't mind going that route, I'd just have to find someone around here who would want to work on the old truck and not give me that, "Wellllllll, I-I could do that, buuuuuuutttttt...". I'm on a tight budget and trying to go the cheapest route but not go the cheapest quality route, if that makes sense.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:50 PM   #7
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Re: Engine decision

Just a thought,but if it runs pretty good and the main complaint is the oil leaks,and questionable reliability,and you work at a GM dealer,and funds are really tight; Maybe you could ask one of the dealer mechanics if they'd look at it for you,maybe in their free time,maybe at their home or whatever for a few bucks. They could do a quick check of the compression and other vital stats to see if it's good.Then maybe cure the worst leaks.When I worked in a shop the guys where always helpful (but I was the manager).
The leak behind the manifold could just be the oil pressure sending unit (or line out if gauge dash).It's right in the back there on top and if that is loose or leaky it will drip down the back of the motor and even appear to be rear seal and pan leak. Also check the valve cover in the back.
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:48 AM   #8
Chevyman680063
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Re: Engine decision

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Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn View Post
Just a thought,but if it runs pretty good and the main complaint is the oil leaks,and questionable reliability,and you work at a GM dealer,and funds are really tight; Maybe you could ask one of the dealer mechanics if they'd look at it for you,maybe in their free time,maybe at their home or whatever for a few bucks. They could do a quick check of the compression and other vital stats to see if it's good.Then maybe cure the worst leaks.When I worked in a shop the guys where always helpful (but I was the manager).
The leak behind the manifold could just be the oil pressure sending unit (or line out if gauge dash).It's right in the back there on top and if that is loose or leaky it will drip down the back of the motor and even appear to be rear seal and pan leak. Also check the valve cover in the back.
The leak from the back of the manifold is the rear seal on the intake that has opened up and started leaking from there. I found that out by sticking by hand back there and could feel where the seal had started coming apart. As for asking one of the dealer mechanics to look at it, they wouldn't know what to do. My dad has an 85 GMC Jimmy he bought from them back in 89 and last year he called them and asked about looking at it for him because he had been having problems with the motor. They told him they don't work on stuff that old anymore, all they work on is new stuff and that they don't even have the equipment to work on something from 85 One of their main mechanics wasn't even born in 85.
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