14 bolt questions

[one_ton_k5]

Hi all, I just finished rebuilding a 14 bolt from a 79 cab & chassis one ton GMC.

I am getting ready to install it in my 71 Blazer and I have a few questions:

The spring pads on the 14 bolt are 40.5" center-center, the spring pads on the 12 bolt I have in the truck now are 40". I am installing an ORD shackle flip and new bushings at the same time as the axle, can this 1/4" per side be made to work without cutting and re-welding the perches?

I do have a welder and I already moved the brake mounting flanges out and converted the axle to disk brakes so I'm not afraid to cut and weld but I'd rather not if I can avoid it. What do you guys think?

Also for you guys who have done this, can I use my rear driveshaft with the hybrid u-joint or will I need a new one?

Thanks. Once I get this axle in I can move on to the D60 up front!

[DieselEater]

You should be just fine with 1/4" per side.....this will be made up with the slop in the hangars to the frame.

Drive shaft length should also be fine.....just make sure you have enough travel on the slip yoke to flex with terrain. I think its a 6" unit, so three inches sticking out is about perfect.

hope this helps,

A.......

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by DieselEater

You should be just fine with 1/4" per side.....this will be made up with the slop in the hangars to the frame.

Drive shaft length should also be fine.....just make sure you have enough travel on the slip yoke to flex with terrain. I think its a 6" unit, so three inches sticking out is about perfect.

hope this helps,

A.......

Hey A......,

Yes it helps. I was figuring I could run with the 1/4" difference but it's nice to hear a few other opinions too.

Good to hear about the driveshaft as well, I've never done an axle swap before so I'm just trying to be as prepared as I can so it will go well and be a good experience as opposed to a nightmare.

Thanks.

I'd love to hear from others who have done the 14 bolt swap as well......

[1tonblaze]

I did the 14 bolt and ord shackel flip to my 70 k/5 . I had to cut off the oringal mounting pads on the rear becuase they where too far out . you will also find when you do this swap the axle will be moved 1 1/2 forward . ord makes the one inch zero rate spring spacers to correct this problem . when i put my axle in it was a little close to the front part of the 1/4 panel and i installed these spring spacers and it solved the problem . as far as the u joint goes they are suposed to be the same as the 1/2 ton .

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by 1tonblaze

I did the 14 bolt and ord shackel flip to my 70 k/5 . I had to cut off the oringal mounting pads on the rear becuase they where too far out . you will also find when you do this swap the axle will be moved 1 1/2 forward . ord makes the one inch zero rate spring spacers to correct this problem . when i put my axle in it was a little close to the front part of the 1/4 panel and i installed these spring spacers and it solved the problem . as far as the u joint goes they are suposed to be the same as the 1/2 ton .

Were your mounting pads close or off by two and a half inches? The 3/4 ton 14 bolt has a 2 inch wider spread than the one ton C&C axle I am using.

That is good info on the ORD zero rates. I was wondering about that too. Thanks a lot for bringing that up.

[1tonblaze]

it didnt click that you where useing a one ton 14 bolt . yeah i have the 3/4 ton version and it was off a good bit . if the axle is out of a 1 ton truck it should just bolt in from what i have read and been told . the ord zero rates put my axle back where it was needed i am runing 36 14.50 16 tires on 16x10 rims and the tire was really close to the front part of my 1/4 panel but after puting them spring plates in it was back to where it was susposed to be with the wheel well ceter line

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by 1tonblaze

it didnt click that you where useing a one ton 14 bolt . yeah i have the 3/4 ton version and it was off a good bit . if the axle is out of a 1 ton truck it should just bolt in from what i have read and been told . the ord zero rates put my axle back where it was needed i am runing 36 14.50 16 tires on 16x10 rims and the tire was really close to the front part of my 1/4 panel but after puting them spring plates in it was back to where it was susposed to be with the wheel well ceter line

Ok, thanks. I am going to order the zero-rates tomorrow.

[1tonblaze]

no problem also you are going to have to drill the spring plates out if you are useing the u bolt flip kit that puts the spring plates on top of your spring pack . I orderd pretty much everything lift wise they had for the 67-72 trucks . what size lift are you runing ?

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by 1tonblaze

no problem also you are going to have to drill the spring plates out if you are useing the u bolt flip kit that puts the spring plates on top of your spring pack . I orderd pretty much everything lift wise they had for the 67-72 trucks . what size lift are you runing ?

I have the factory top plates off a 3/4 ton. I think it will be no problem to re-drill the top hole.

I am running an unbelievable 4" lift made by a third grader. Give me a few hours and I'll post a few pictures....

[va_tlc]

i did the 3/4 to 14 bolt also. and to add i had to cut off the shock mounts and relocate also, thats great if you can get by without moving the spring perches, i bought new perches from summit and after welding em on and installing the lift, the rear of the truck was like 2 inches higher, so i took the rear 4 inch block out and cut it down bout a inch and a half, another thing you probally already know but when you fill your punkin up with gear oil after gettin it full to the plug. either jack your truck up on one side then the other... or pull on a hillside to get gear oil out to each hub, keeps from buring your bearings up, good luck and becareful as you know its heavyyyyy..

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by va_tlc

i did the 3/4 to 14 bolt also. and to add i had to cut off the shock mounts and relocate also, thats great if you can get by without moving the spring perches, i bought new perches from summit and after welding em on and installing the lift, the rear of the truck was like 2 inches higher, so i took the rear 4 inch block out and cut it down bout a inch and a half, another thing you probally already know but when you fill your punkin up with gear oil after gettin it full to the plug. either jack your truck up on one side then the other... or pull on a hillside to get gear oil out to each hub, keeps from buring your bearings up, good luck and becareful as you know its heavyyyyy..

Would it be better to raise the fill plug and add more oil?

[1tonblaze]

also i have seen you are runing disc brakes on the back what are you doing for a parking brake ???? thats the one thing i been in the middle of the road on since i know the caddy calipers that they tell you to use are junk and the parking break hangs up on them after a few years of use

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by 1tonblaze

also i have seen you are runing disc brakes on the back what are you doing for a parking brake ???? thats the one thing i been in the middle of the road on since i know the caddy calipers that they tell you to use are junk and the parking break hangs up on them after a few years of use

Yeah, I haven't really addressed that yet. I was thinking of doing a drivline brake but that is only good for parking, I'd like an EMERGENCY brake so that in the case of brake failure, there is a strictly mechanical way to stop the truck.

I've seen a few posts here and there about using late model GM 14 bolt emergency brakes which are little drum brakes inside the rotor. The late models being 4 wheel disk, the rear rotors are used as drums for emergency and parking brakes.

Perhaps something similar can be made to work....

Check out this sweet "Lift Kit" the previous owner installed in my truck:

[1tonblaze]

yeah you where right looks like some backwoods work there . i went with new springs all the way about on my blazer . it had 4 inch blocks in the back with broken in half spings . i been finding out slowly that my trucks previous life must have been hard from the broken in half automatic transmission . I have heard about useing the new style gm 14 bolt disc brakes with the parking brake inside of the rotor . i just been thinking about leaveing the heavy drums on there dont really care if mud and sand ect get in there and tear up the brake shoes . brake shoes are cheep plus i dont have to pay anyone to do them

[one_ton_k5]

Originally Posted by 1tonblaze

yeah you where right looks like some backwoods work there . i went with new springs all the way about on my blazer . it had 4 inch blocks in the back with broken in half spings . i been finding out slowly that my trucks previous life must have been hard from the broken in half automatic transmission . I have heard about useing the new style gm 14 bolt disc brakes with the parking brake inside of the rotor . i just been thinking about leaveing the heavy drums on there dont really care if mud and sand ect get in there and tear up the brake shoes . brake shoes are cheep plus i dont have to pay anyone to do them

I agree that if I had good drum brakes like you, I would think hard about changing them. But in my case, my axles NEEDED to be changed and there was no way I was gonna put NEW drum brakes on when disks are so easy.

I tried looking at your truck pics, it said I had to be your friend to see them or something like that.

Here are my axles as I bought them 3 weeks ago:

[1tonblaze]

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=97354230 there is some pics of my truck on my myspace page just feel to lazy to post them on here

[va_tlc]

you done a nice job cleaning them up, all i did about the gear oil was ..
after i filled it to the plug, i drove the truck out on a hill one on side then other side to let the oil run out o the outer axel, then added some more to it, those disk are gonna be nice, mine had the old drums so i just left em on,
man those blocks looks dangerous.... some people huh

[1tonblaze]

humm i will have to look in the pics on myspace i have everything set on public veiw

[va_tlc]

.

i love these rear ends, they look massive under there.

[shilo]

heres a narrowed one

[va_tlc]

shilo thats bad right there, did you narrow it or was it already done? wondering about axels?

[1tonblaze]

thats what i was going to do with my axles before i got the blazer i was going to put them in a cj . but i wasnt going to have them cut down . I was going to run them full width

[shilo]

I debated full width or narrowed for a long time. I went with narrowed axels and super wide tires. the jeep is exactly as wide as my dodge 2500 with 12.50 tires. But the jeeps are 18"

I had a machine shop narrow it for me and ordered custom shafts from dutchman.

I love the looks of a 14 bolt. Cant be beat.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by shilo

I debated full width or narrowed for a long time. I went with narrowed axels and super wide tires. the jeep is exactly as wide as my dodge 2500 with 12.50 tires. But the jeeps are 18"

I had a machine shop narrow it for me and ordered custom shafts from dutchman.

I love the looks of a 14 bolt. Cant be beat.

Agreed, I have a 14B and 60 in my YJ... already has a 496, Th400 and Stak 3 speed transfer case in it.

Only running 15" wide tires though.

[one_ton_k5]

Those are sweet guys.

14 bolts are sweet. Maybe not sexy or exotic, but damn sweet.