Easy Aluminum Radiator Upgrade....See Pics!!

[ChiefRocka]

I finally had some extra time to install the Summit Radiator I purchased days ago.

I decided to make this an easy bolt on install for those of you who might not have a welder.

Follow along as I explain in detail how I did this to my truck this afternoon:
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First of all, my truck ran at a cool 180* constantly....with the original tiny sixer radiator. So running hot was never a problem, I only did this swap just for the 'cool' factor...
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Here's the stocker...Didn't look too bad though:
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Drained the sucker:
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This is the part number I went with:
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I decided I didn't want it the stock location, but rather flush with the radiator support:
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I used the existing holes shown in the red circles.....behind those you can see the stock mounts:
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After a couple of measurements, I found I only needed a 1" lift on the radiator.
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The material used was a 16" piece of 1x2 rectangular tubing, centered the tubing between the frame-rails and marked to holes. I used 3/8" x 1" allen head bolts. I was gonna just tack weld bolts under the tubing, but again I wanted to show a "drill and bolt" install.
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[ChiefRocka]

I center the tubing in the frame rails...however the existing holes are 1/2" offset. Dimensions are shown at the end.
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For the upper mounts, I used 5/16" stud vibration mounts. Here I drill the existing holes to 1/4", then tapped to 5/16" coarse thread. You can just drill to 5/16" then nut from behind if you wish.
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Dropped the radiator in place, centered it up (between the frame-rails), then marked and drilled the flange.
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The reason I used the 1x2, is because if fits snug in the radiator bottom, with about 3/16" clearance just enough for some rubber cushion.
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Here's some measurements:

16" long...one side is 2" in, and other side is 1 1/2" in, and 1 9/16" from the edge for your centers:
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[ChiefRocka]

I also like the fact that the radiator neck is tapped for 1/8" pipe. The connection here it a temporary connection.
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I need to come up with a new hose for the bottom, and rework the upper hose as well.
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I think this made for a pretty easy and straight forward install.
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I might throw my buffers on the bench grinder and hit up the tanks before running it...only time will tell...

Later

[billydonn]

Snazzy post Chief! Try a lower rad hose for 66 c-10 with 327. That should get you close...they use the front rad position and are mounted higher.

Your overflow is plumbed to the bottom of that catch can, I assume.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by billydonn

Snazzy post Chief! Try a lower rad hose for 66 c-10 with 327. That should get you close...they use the front rad position and are mounted higher.

Your overflow is plumbed to the bottom of that catch can, I assume.

Cool man, thats what I need to know !!

Yes, that's where it's going.....I think I might run an AN fitting off of the radiator, with an elbow. This will look much better then whats on there now.

[Slowmotion]

Everytime I Ck On This Site I See That You Have Done Something New To Youre Truck. It Just Keeps On Getting Better And Better. Keep Up The Good Work. I Enjoy Seeing The Progress.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Slowmotion

Everytime I Ck On This Site I See That You Have Done Something New To Youre Truck. It Just Keeps On Getting Better And Better. Keep Up The Good Work. I Enjoy Seeing The Progress.

Cool, cool...thanks bro

[Fred T]

Well done, John. Now we need some shot of the finished product. Is there a shroud in the making?

[joe231]

nice write up! thanks

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Fred T

Well done, John. Now we need some shot of the finished product. Is there a shroud in the making?

I should have it done tomorrow....Then I'll post up some more pics. I wasn't planning on a shroud...mabey just an electric fan in the near future.

Originally Posted by joe231

nice write up! thanks

No problem, man !!

[protrash64]

Nice John.......you'll like this radiator. I did this years ago.........completely different way. I used 2 polyurethane bump stops in the existing holes on the bottom and then mounted the top w/ a 67-72 mount on top w/ another bumpstop.

no shroud and 400ci never gets hot, even in 100* plus temps.........

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Nice John.......you'll like this radiator. I did this years ago.........completely different way. I used 2 polyurethane bump stops in the existing holes on the bottom and then mounted the top w/ a 67-72 mount on top w/ another bumpstop.

no shroud and 400ci never gets hot, even in 100* plus temps.........

Cool man....I thought about the bump-stops too, however I didn't have the perfect size in stock...and they wouldn't of worked as the tubing was offset to give me my 3/4" clearance....Mabey I'll change it in the future...but for now it works great !!

[slepysal]

Man , that looks nice! I showed my brother in law this post, he just spent300.00 on a stock one.!! ( like I did for mine) Nice job

[SeanPaintsFlames]

That's how my truck's PO mounted the radiator when they dropped a 350 in. That's also the reason my know-it-all mechanic friend gave for my truck overheating every time I got stuck in traffic. Apparently, my radiator is too far away from the fan to make it work properly.

Does yours still stay cool enough?

[rickf]

Originally Posted by SeanPaintsFlames

That's how my truck's PO mounted the radiator when they dropped a 350 in. That's also the reason my know-it-all mechanic friend gave for my truck overheating every time I got stuck in traffic. Apparently, my radiator is too far away from the fan to make it work properly.

Does yours still stay cool enough?

The holes the Chief used are for the stock OEM "big" radiator (for big 6 and v8 options), the smaller radiator further back and lower was only for th 230L6. I believe the v8 only had the "short" water pump in that era, so an original OEM style fan shroud should be a proper fit and should resolve your fan-too-far-away issue.

The shroud mounts to sheet metal that in turn mounts to the radiator support, not to the radiator itself. So it ought to work with a variety of radiators.

The shrouds are available, when I was looking they were $100 to $120 depending on source.

Beautiful job Chief, of course I'd expect nothing less given the history with other projects you've shown here.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by slepysal

Man , that looks nice! I showed my brother in law this post, he just spent300.00 on a stock one.!! ( like I did for mine) Nice job

Thanks man.....So far I have $169 for the radiator...metal, bolts and vibration mounts I had already.

Originally Posted by SeanPaintsFlames

That's how my truck's PO mounted the radiator when they dropped a 350 in. That's also the reason my know-it-all mechanic friend gave for my truck overheating every time I got stuck in traffic. Apparently, my radiator is too far away from the fan to make it work properly.

Does yours still stay cool enough?

I haven't run it yet, but as I mentioned before, my 230 6 cyl radiator kept my 350 @ a constant 180*...idle, traffic, whatever.....So since the new radiator is made of alumium, it should disappate even better....We will see. I want to get rid of that ugly fan anyway...might go with an electric.

Originally Posted by rickf

The holes the Chief used are for the stock OEM "big" radiator (for big 6 and v8 options), the smaller radiator further back and lower was only for th 230L6. I believe the v8 only had the "short" water pump in that era, so an original OEM style fan shroud should be a proper fit and should resolve your fan-too-far-away issue.

The shroud mounts to sheet metal that in turn mounts to the radiator support, not to the radiator itself. So it ought to work with a variety of radiators.

The shrouds are available, when I was looking they were $100 to $120 depending on source.

Beautiful job Chief, of course I'd expect nothing less given the history with other projects you've shown here.

Thanks for the added info and the compliments......I set my truck back on the b-burner again.....Should have it ready on Monday.

Later

[David Flores]

Looks good. I just ordered a summit radiator with trans cooler(SUM-381428)

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by David Flores

Looks good. I just ordered a summit radiator with trans cooler(SUM-381428)

Cool

[Iron-Butt]

Nice write up. I might need to change mine out since I just installed the old air kit.

[**grumpy**]

Great choice.

I've used those Summit universal aluminum rads. in 3 vehicles.
My 53 suburban
a 57 chevy wagon
and a 59 chevy wagon.

best 170. bucks I spent.

Plus Summit is only 35 minutes from my house, so I just run there and pick stuff up.

[Brianflores]

real nice, it's good to have time to work on the truck........

[salazar44]

I would like to do this also, but dont know how everyone else is running the tranny cooler lines. Or where they are putting the tranny cooler. I have a powerglide.

[David Flores]

Originally Posted by salazar44

I would like to do this also, but dont know how everyone else is running the tranny cooler lines. Or where they are putting the tranny cooler. I have a powerglide.

Try SUM-381428 from summit.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by David Flores

Try SUM-381428 from summit.

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That would be a good choice....Although, when I convert my truck from the stock 3-speed over to the 700R4, I am going to run a nice, over kill tranny cooler. I used a really sweet one from Summit one time on a boosted Diesel Excursion...It had 1/2 ports w/a thermostatically controlled fan...Don't think I have to go that crazy, but there are options out there.

No sense in running your fluid thru boiling water.

[Woogeroo]

So, how do those metal radiator hoses work? How do they tighten up? Just curious...

thanks for sharing and all the picture taking!

-W