cam

[1969 k/10]

When putting an upgraded or performance cam in your engine, do you notice a big difference? Is it worth the time and money?

I have a 350 w/ new intake, carb, and headers btw.

[The Big Green]

Its so worth it...lol. I got my 67 when I was 16 and when I went to my buddies to show him, he said "lets put a big cam in it" lol. I had the stock 327 with 600 carb, we put in a Lunati 292dur/480lift, and no stall...lol...it would lunge at stoplights. It wanted to run the light, and everyone asked if I had enough cam in it...lol.

Are you wanting good gas mileage? If so, I would stay a small cam with stock convertor and stay away from the stall convertor. I have a 350, preformer intake, 600 holley, and headers. I have the same engine as you basiclly and I have a small RV cam, just big enough to tell it has a bigger cam. It a 270dur/454lift(I blieve).

As far as performance goes, my cam is for pulling, hince RV cam, but it is a tire burner, but I also have 4.11 gearing. Maybe not a huge difference but its worth it, IMO, just for the sound.

If you know how to install a cam, it takes me about a hour or 2. Costs about $145 for my cam and lifters and well worth it.

[t&tkennels]

i m planning on doing a engine build for my 71'. ive got a performer intake , 600 edelbrock carb , 1" 5/8 headers & gonna be running 9.8:1 pistons & talked to the guys @ comp cams & they recomend their extreme energy 274 hyd. cam. They said it was a good street cam with a mild rough idle.im gonna also run a 2,000rpm stall & i already have 4.10 gears . just choose your cam wisely ,you dont want a cam that make its power from 3,500 to 7,000 rpm when the rest of the engine is setup to run from 1,200 to 5,000 rpm.

[1969 k/10]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

Its so worth it...lol. I got my 67 when I was 16 and when I went to my buddies to show him, he said "lets put a big cam in it" lol. I had the stock 327 with 600 carb, we put in a Lunati 292dur/480lift, and no stall...lol...it would lunge at stoplights. It wanted to run the light, and everyone asked if I had enough cam in it...lol.

Are you wanting good gas mileage? If so, I would stay a small cam with stock convertor and stay away from the stall convertor. I have a 350, preformer intake, 600 holley, and headers. I have the same engine as you basiclly and I have a small RV cam, just big enough to tell it has a bigger cam. It a 270dur/454lift(I blieve).

As far as performance goes, my cam is for pulling, hince RV cam, but it is a tire burner, but I also have 4.11 gearing. Maybe not a huge difference but its worth it, IMO, just for the sound.

If you know how to install a cam, it takes me about a hour or 2. Costs about $145 for my cam and lifters and well worth it.

Ya i was thinking about an rv cam or 4x4 cam from comp cams.
I also have 4.11 gears and def. don't care about gas mileage, i want power! lol

[Bob 68327]

I would put a Isky 292 /507 in it and a 3000 stall That will wake it up !! Good power and long smokey burnouts

[1969 k/10]

ya, i want power but don't really feel like changing out the converter

[Gray Ghost]

Originally Posted by 1969 k/10

When putting an upgraded or performance cam in your engine, do you notice a big difference? Is it worth the time and money?

I have a 350 w/ new intake, carb, and headers btw.

I put in a Summit 1102 grind in my 350....comes in around 1100 rpm yet has a smooth but distinct idle....for a driver it's perfect.

[rscam]

I have put many cams in car over the years and I always end up to big. If you want driveability then keep the LSA above 112 or you'll have vacuum issues. Also anything above about .470 lift you need to change the valve springs and possibly screw in studs.

[The Big Green]

Originally Posted by rscam

I have put many cams in car over the years and I always end up to big. If you want driveability then keep the LSA above 112 or you'll have vacuum issues. Also anything above about .470 lift you need to change the valve springs and possibly screw in studs.

Yea, I hear ya on the studs...lol. I had a 11.1 350 with a 300 Comp 515lift and it sounded great and ran great too. I had the 882 heads with 194valve, because they take heat well and don't crack so easy. The springs and studs were good, but recently went back stock because of gas prices and I want a DD. I just got the engine together and it was ok for about 50 miles and then the ticking and backfiring started. I got it back home after pulling the valvecovers off 4 times and adjusting the Full rollers. I thought I was doing something wrong...lol...because they kept loosing. I took them off the next day, tightened them and ran it for a bit, dang studs pulling out on a stock engine with RV cam...lol. I guess the studs were the cause of the 300 Comp, and were already loose because or it. I pulled the intake off to remove the heads and have the studs pinned, and there was 3 flat lobes on the cam, brand new cam, but sometimes they go bad, because they use crappy metal.

1969 k/10
That being said, check the heads and see if the studs are push ins, if they are I'd pull them and pay the $30 bucks, give or take a few bucks, because they (could) pull out. It happened to me because of my bigger cam that was in it. You won't go wrong with the RV or Extreme energys, but keep it small, or you will need a stall and springs, if not you will lunge and float the valves when you lay the hammer down...lol.