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07-20-2008, 05:50 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: kingston,pa
Posts: 24
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rear brake drums 3/4 ton
how do i remove the rear brake drums 3/4 ton with coil springs 65 chevy truck it seems that the axle and the drum is one piece my 69 i just remove set screws and off they come.
thanks jeff |
07-20-2008, 09:42 PM | #2 |
resident wrencher
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ramona california
Posts: 720
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Re: rear brake drums 3/4 ton
Hey jeff on my 66 3/4 ton 4x4 the rear drums had screws but u have 2 look they r inbtween the studs if its the eaton ff then if u want 2 replace ur axel seals u could pull the axel out just jack it up then undo the nuts and the tire and drum as a hole will come off but try that last it sucks to do if u have acess to a brake adjuster spoon pull the plug on the backin plate and with a small flash light spin the adjuster star wheel 2 back the shoes off the drum and if its still stuck use a rubber mallet to smak the edge of the drum off or u could use a torch or somtin 2 cutt the hold down pins
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07-21-2008, 07:48 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: kingston,pa
Posts: 24
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Re: rear brake drums 3/4 ton
Thanks for the help guys,
Well i guess i have to pull the axles to get my drums off (65 3/4 ton) there is no screws between studs. I never saw this set up before my 69 3/4 ton has the screws take them out and off comes the drums. I need to do this because the truck sat for 18yrs and i want to change wheel cylinders and brakes lines etc. any more info would be great. thanks |
07-22-2008, 11:22 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 13,821
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Re: rear brake drums 3/4 ton
yeah some have integral hub and drum, you have to pull axle then the spindle nuts and replace as a unit
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07-23-2008, 08:41 AM | #5 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Re: rear brake drums 3/4 ton
While you have it apart put in a new grease seal. And you need to be careful not to damage the seal when you mount the hub back on the axle.
To turn the big nut you can buy a socket, which I never remember to do. I use a pin punch or a screwdriver with a hammer. There is a locking plate under the first nut with tabsto hold the nut in place. The combined drum & hub is heavy, so be careful. One shop I worked at had a dolly with a jack in it. When you get into the 2 ton trucks you really need one. When I am installing the assembly I use a floor jack to hold the drum up, helps to avoid damaging the seal. The older manuals say to grease the wheel bearings. It is a good practice, but not required. Some lube on the bearings will eliminate a dry start. If I'm in a hurry I will shoot some gear lube into the hub before sliding on the axle shaft. Also check your breather. On the top of the differential drivers side. Older truck have a pipe fitting with a sheet metal cap, newer trucks a hosw that runs above the housing. It can get plugged, which will cause your weakest seal to blow when the lube gets warm and the vapor expands.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. |
07-26-2008, 07:19 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: west coast
Posts: 3,380
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Re: rear brake drums 3/4 ton
The 69 is a Dana 60 axle. The 65 is a Eaton HO52. Different drum set up.
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