I need help with my rear end

[Critter]

Sounds like a personal problem, right? I had a little time today so I made some progress on the rear springs. I’m sure a lot of you have seen my situation from this post:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=303419

I got everything pulled out and set aside. Here is my question. If you take a look at the new 6 in lift spring, the left side sits up a little higher than the right. It is also about 1 inch farther away from the center pin than the left side. In other words, the springs aren’t symmetric. There aren’t any marks that identify which way is forward. I would THINK the higher end goes to the back with the rear shackle. Anybody agree or disagree? I kinda feel dumb about asking this, I’m sure y’all that lift trucks everyday are going to tell me this is a no-brainer.

Anyway, I included a couple other pics for the heck of it. The last are my DIY4x4 shackles with a fresh coat of Rustoleum.

[LUV2XCLR8]

I have been ordering parts for mine all week, not so sure I am happy about us having similar problems

[71jimmy]

When I did my Tuff Country springs they had instructions which mentioned the method to determine which end goes to the front and rear. Unfortunately I can't remember of the top of my head and I can't find the instructions. Try going to the web site of the spring manufacturer, they should have installl instructions.

The other way would be if you remember how your old springs were mounted. I believe one end is longer from the alignment pin to the end. But I don't recall if the longer end goes forward or rearward. Good Luck.

[Critter]

These are Tuff Country 6 inch springs but I got them from an online vender. No instructions. I was able to find the instructions online for a full 6-inch kit; I assume my springs are the same. The longer side goes to the back, I found the answer at the top of page 5…

http://www.tuffcountry.com/NewFiles/16611.pdf

By the way, I measured the original springs and the pin seems to be centered, i.e. symmetric. Either way, my question is answered. Thanks!

[Critter]

Ok, next question. I think I am going to want to use the 2° shims when I put everything back together. I am guessing that I need to get a new center bolt that has a longer “peg”? As it is, the peg barely sticks thru she shim about 1/8th of an inch. Am I worrying too much or is this unsafe?

[BLUE THUNDER]

Might be a dumb question, but what is the shackle reversal for? What are the benefits from using that type of set up? BTW, the tranny is comming out today. I'll call you. Mario

[crawdadfox]

Yes you want to "pin" the degree shim to the spring!! You will need a pair of 3/8 center pin's, make sure to clamp the spring pack on both side's of the center pin that way you dont strip the new pin's installing them.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by BLUE THUNDER

Might be a dumb question, but what is the shackle reversal for? What are the benefits from using that type of set up? BTW, the tranny is comming out today. I'll call you. Mario

He is not doing a shackle reversal but the benefit of going from a tension style shackle to a compression style shackle is that you can retain a flatter spring which should offer a better ride and more articulation for off road use. Also you can install longer shackles for a little more lift for cheap (to a point, stock are about 4 inch, you probably don't want to use shackles longer than 6 inches which will offer a net gain of 1 inch of lift). There might be something that i'm missing but that's the basics.

[BLUE THUNDER]

Hey Critter, how much were they? What's the website?

[Critter]

About $80 for the shackles, plus I picked up a couple sets of greasable bolts for the springs. This is a great source for 4x4 parts. AJ used them for a lot of his stuff as well.

http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm

[Burt4x4]

Beware ~ Aluminum degree shims will crack and "spit" out in time. WFO sells steel ones, DIY may have them too.
I had one fail on me years back. I did not see that I lost the shim during a wheeling trip and my ubolts were loose because of the shim being gone. My spring perches were rounded/bent destroyed. Had to cut them off and replace. But that alowed me to clock my pinion up and remove the need for shims..
Just my .02c from the past
Keep those Ubolts tight!
Burt

[Critter]

Originally Posted by Burt4x4

Beware ~ Aluminum degree shims will crack and "spit" out in time. WFO sells steel ones, DIY may have them too.
I had one fail on me years back. I did not see that I lost the shim during a wheeling trip and my ubolts were loose because of the shim being gone. My spring perches were rounded/bent destroyed. Had to cut them off and replace. But that alowed me to clock my pinion up and remove the need for shims..
Just my .02c from the past
Keep those Ubolts tight!
Burt

Good info. These are used aluminum shims that have been on the blazer for years, so I was a little worried about using them anyway. I think I will just order some new spring perches and clock the axel that way.

[cleszkie]

Critter -

You need to install the rear lift springs such that the centering pin is closer to the rear spring eye. This is to move the rear axle back away from the front fender lip. If you've ever seen a lifted Blazer that looks like the rear tires are not centered in the wheel wells, but are closer to the front, that is because they have used only lift blocks, a shackle reversal with the stock springs, or a lift spring with a non-offset centering pin. I have Superlift 6" springs in the rear of my Blazer and that is how they are installed. Superlift even ships them to you with a sticker on the springs that tells you which way is the front.