replacing cab bushings

[texastrendz]

has anyone ever replaced cab bushings without pulling the cab. i know the bolts are welded into the floor, can i just cut the tack weld, slide bolt out, change bushing and weld the bolt back into the floor. will this throw something out of alignment if i cut the bolt out. any help would be great. thanks again and again.

[Shyguy]

Sorry, I don't know the answer, but I am in the same situation.

I need to replace the bushings and don't want to pull the cab if I don't have to.

Hopefully some one will chime in that knows the answer.

Danny

[kevncar]

The bolts weren't welded in mine. All I did was wrench them out. They were a little rusty, but I got them out without having to cut them out. I completely removed my cab, but I would think you could just remove the fronts, jack it up with a block of wood and a floor jack and replace and then do the backs... The biggest worry I would have is if you can squish the new ones down as far as the old ones were to keep everything lined up. Haven't got my cab back on yet, and will probablly replace all the bushing (core sup.) when I do so the later is all theory...sorry I couldn't be more help.

good luck

[Security guy]

I just got finished changing mine today. I don't have the front clip or bed on so it was pretty easy. The rear come from the bottom. Just undo the bolt's on both sides. The front came in from the top with a nut on the bottom. After all bolts were out, i jacked up one side at a time just enough to get the old bushings out and slide the new ones in. I put all four new ones in before tightening anything down. I still had my steeriing and brakes connected. Didn;t seem to affect any of that. I'm not sure what your talking about the bolts being welded or tacked into place? My truck has been apart before, so the p.o. may have done something that I don't know about. Hope this helps.

[Hawker7]

Mine were original and had no welds holding them in.

[umwtnt]

What year truck are you talking about. On the 67-72 trucks the only bolts I recall that might have some PO welds on it is normally the Radiator support. Been there, done that. That front cab bolts are bolt and nut and the rear blts come out from the bottom. The nut in the cab is captured. Loosen all the cab bolts and gently lift one side of the cab with a jack, replace the mounts one at a time and if you have any shims reinstall them in the same place. I would spray all the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil of your choice for a couple of days before trying this task, it makes a difference. Do 1 side at at time and then tighten all the bolts back down. If I remember correctly the front bolts are torqued to 50 ft lbs and the rear to 20 ft lbs. But please don't quote me I may not remember correctly. Good Luck.

[Old Yeller 1970]

I don't remember if mine were welded or not but I swapped them out with the cab on the frame. I jacked up the cab enough to remove the old ones and slide in the new ones.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

We have removed the cabs on 20 trucks in the last few years and all of the front cab mount bolts were welded to the floor by the factory.

We have not seen any that were not welded so it must have been certain assembly plants that did the welding.

The weld can be ground away so that the bolts can be removed if yours happen to be welded. I have used a die grinder with a small cutter to remove the sometime very large weld. Depending on if it is welded and how the welding was done some repair of the floor may be necessary. If a repair is necessary an appropriete sized washer can be hammer welded into the recess.

Jim

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

The front mounting bolts on all 4 of the trucks I have messed with were tack welded in.

[Shyguy]

The front ones on the cab off a 3/4 ton frame that I moved to a short 1/2 ton frame are welded.

I never really looked to tell how much they are welded, though.

Danny

[cdowns]

i placed a piece of 2x6 under the cab floor and gently jack up 1 side at a time about 1inch is all you need to raise it//no problem cutting tack weld and rewelding when u finish up

it's best not to try jacking on the rocker panels as it may cause alot more work in the long run

[texastrendz]

thanks alot guys for all the responses, i knew i wasn't the only c-10 owner with them welded in. i will just grind them down and knock them out and reweld them when finished. once again this site makes like a little easier with the support it has.

[c10crazy]

Here are some links for cab related articles:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=180365

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=192342