Truck will not start - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

c10chevy69 · 10-06-2008, 05:26 AM

Well this one has been driving me crazy for a little while now. It's getting fuel and 12v to the dist. but nothing to the plugs. I have tried two coils one is new and had the module checked. Cap and rotor look like new but could be the problem, what do you think?

soba_03 · 10-06-2008, 09:20 AM

I assume we are talking an HEI set up? Check for presents of the carbon button that goes between coil and rotor. Is this a new distributor to this truck? If you have volts to the distributor not much to go wrong, coil lead or rotor button. Good luck...

LOW DOUGH · 10-06-2008, 09:33 AM

Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me)

Turned out it was something in the dis. I bought a brand new one, dropped it in and it started right up. Something inside the dis is bad. Don't know what. Try a dis from a junk yard or something. If you or someone has one laying around. I bet it will work.

There are a bunch of different parts inside the dis. I am drawing a blank and can't tell you the names.

ChevLoRay · 01-08-2009, 07:13 AM

[QUOTE=LOW DOUGH;2918357]Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me)QUOTE]

I got a kick of this comment.

It wasn't my wife but another woman who made the suggestion to me when my HEI took a powder, one New Year's Day. After my truck died and she began honking at me to move out of her way (after all, we were in the turn lane to go to WalMart), I got out and offered to blow her horn while SHE started my truck. Dang, she got an attitude!! Whassup with that?

The wiring to the pickup coil, within the distributor housing, is a possible culprit. All the modules, coils, caps and rotors aren't going to make it work. In my case, the wire that came from the pickup coil developed a break that would cause an open circuit when I let off of the gas and the breaker plate would move. Until I replaced the vacuum advance, it hadn't happened at all....yet.

**WIDESIDE72** · 10-06-2008, 09:41 AM

I had a probelm like this a while back on an HEI. I replaced the pick up, coil, cap, rotor (everything but the housing) and it STILL wouldn't fire. I bought a rebuilt dist and it started right up. I took all the new parts off the old dist and tossed the housing in the junk pile. I run an MSD 6A now since it replaced the sometimes troublesome HEI module. (IMO and experience, 90% of HEI problems are caused by "offshore" cheapo modules and/ or not having the right heat sink grease under the module.

nbroady · 10-06-2008, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

(IMO and experience, 90% of HEI problems are caused by "offshore" cheapo modules and/ or not having the right heat sink grease under the module.

same thing happened to mine and we replaced the inigition module with a OEM one and it fixed the problem

67ChevyRedneck · 10-06-2008, 10:47 AM

I had a control module that tested "good" and truck still wouldn't start. Got tired of screwing with it, so I bought a new module anyway... started right up

**WIDESIDE72** · 10-06-2008, 09:43 AM

You probably haven't cussed at it enough or bled on it enough. Call me and hold it up to the phone and I will give it a good talking to for you. Make sure you cover your ears and no children are within shouting distance. It may get rough. HAHA

LOW DOUGH · 10-06-2008, 10:23 AM

YEP.... you got to talk mean to it.

70rs/ss · 10-06-2008, 04:07 PM

Yeah, a module is a cheap way to fix an otherwise tested good module! I like the accel or other name brand modules compared to the autozone/checker cheapies. I also carry a spare module as they fail from time to time. Summit sells a complete perf upgrade kit with a cap, rotor, coil, and module for fairly cheap and it is $$$ well spent!!

Here Ya Go, $70 for the Summit version or $170 for the MSD version, I'd go with Summit since thier stuff is name brand stuff with thier name on it (Summit aluminum heads are Brodx IK for about $300 less, same head though, so the HEI stuff may be ACCEL or the like, just in a Summit box)!

SUM-850030 Summit® GM HEI Ignition Tune-Up Kits
HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Red, Kit
Today $69.95

MSD-8501 MSD Ultimate HEI Kits
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HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Black, Kit
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straitnate14 · 10-06-2008, 04:46 PM

ya I bought a summit dizzy and it and it had a bad modual, took it in to test it and it passed, tapped it and tested and it faild put the old crusty gm one back in and what do you know no problems

c10chevy69 · 12-16-2008, 05:27 AM

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

JHART · 12-16-2008, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c10chevy69

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

Did you change the entire distributor or just the cap? Not sure if this applies but i had a similar issue and it ended up being a Control Module. It sat directly under the rotor in the dizzy. Cost me 5 bucks after i spent over 100 on other parts. Go figure ..lol It looks like a little flat black plastic thingy ... sorry wish i could help ya more!

-Hart

cdowns · 01-01-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c10chevy69

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

try a different newer better battery

LOW DOUGH · 12-16-2008, 10:43 AM

Hmmm, so the new dis is in the right place. (TDC #1 cyl) Not 180 out. Had to ask... I used to do it every time.

Do you have the dis power wire in the right place? If you are standing over the driver fender looking at the dis. Is the wire in the right side of the plug? Or closest to the fire wall? Cuase the one on the left would be for the tack.

I don't know.... just thinking

good luck

MDC · 12-16-2008, 01:19 PM

Is the distributor turning as you crank the engine? Just a thought

70rs/ss · 12-16-2008, 03:09 PM

You need to swap the power wire, 9 volts isn't enough to fire the hei, and it'll burn the module up. Pull the old power wire (white wire with a fiberglass insulation wrap on it) from the firewall harness plug and replace the wire with a heavy guage wire, that way it gets 12+ volts at crank and in Accessory. Many years ago I wired one into the fuse box and it wouldn't fire, had 12v with the key on but nothing at crank, so I had it on a accesory terminal which is only powered when the key is in the ON position, not the crank position, which is why I always just replace the resistance wire so the power feed functions as it should and the dist always gets the proper amount of voltage, when it is supposed to!

JHART · 12-17-2008, 04:08 PM

So what happened with this? Did you get her runing? Just curious. This is a good thread to have for others in case they run into your problem.

-Hart

c10chevy69 · 01-01-2009, 07:52 PM

update #2: Still no luck here folks. Added new cap and rotor still no fire. Tested voltage at the firewall connection and got 12v at acc. but only got 8.5v at crank. Now here's the strange thing this truck used to run at one point because I do remember driving it home when I bought it. I sure am glad I don't actually need this truck right now because I really am beginning to think that this truck does not like me. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated.

LONGHAIR · 01-01-2009, 08:11 PM

Just to get it going....By-pass the BS and make a "jumper wire" ...run a "new" wire directly from the distributor to the positive side of the battery. If this voltage thing is your problem, it will start right up. You have to remove it to shut the engine off, the key won't do it.
This is of-course just a testing/diagnosis thing, but if it works we can steer you to the perminant fix.

LOW DOUGH · 01-07-2009, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Just to get it going....By-pass the BS and make a "jumper wire" ...run a "new" wire directly from the distributor to the positive side of the battery. If this voltage thing is your problem, it will start right up. You have to remove it to shut the engine off, the key won't do it.
This is of-course just a testing/diagnosis thing, but if it works we can steer you to the perminant fix.

Great idea.

hilandr452 · 01-07-2009, 11:42 PM

Almost sounds like someone replaced a points distributor with an HEI and used the original power wire, which would have a ballast resistor in the line to reduce the voltage to not burn the points.

If you tried the battery jump idea that would say whether it is or not.

Dan

kulturekat · 01-08-2009, 12:53 AM

hey c10 i noticed you are in okc where about in okc are you at if you need parts or whatever let me know i went through the exact same stuff a while back.

Kayotic · 01-08-2009, 11:43 AM

I'd agree with the resister wire. Mine did the same. Seems you can't just splice into it anywhere either.

If your hard wire testing gets you running then that is the porblem.

Get rid of that wire(the one with the insulating sleeve.. I think my wire was yellow, may be corrected though)

Anyway I tried splicing into that wire at the firewall with no success.

Ended up cutting the resister wire at the block, leaving an inch or so then made the splice. She's purring now.(Runs better then my daily).

Atleast your voltage is right on, both at hot and crank.

10-06-2008, 09:33 AM	#3
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Truck will not start Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me) Turned out it was something in the dis. I bought a brand new one, dropped it in and it started right up. Something inside the dis is bad. Don't know what. Try a dis from a junk yard or something. If you or someone has one laying around. I bet it will work. There are a bunch of different parts inside the dis. I am drawing a blank and can't tell you the names.

01-08-2009, 07:13 AM	#4
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	Re: Truck will not start [QUOTE=LOW DOUGH;2918357]Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me)QUOTE] I got a kick of this comment. It wasn't my wife but another woman who made the suggestion to me when my HEI took a powder, one New Year's Day. After my truck died and she began honking at me to move out of her way (after all, we were in the turn lane to go to WalMart), I got out and offered to blow her horn while SHE started my truck. Dang, she got an attitude!! Whassup with that? The wiring to the pickup coil, within the distributor housing, is a possible culprit. All the modules, coils, caps and rotors aren't going to make it work. In my case, the wire that came from the pickup coil developed a break that would cause an open circuit when I let off of the gas and the breaker plate would move. Until I replaced the vacuum advance, it hadn't happened at all....yet. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

10-06-2008, 09:41 AM	#5
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,500	Re: Truck will not start I had a probelm like this a while back on an HEI. I replaced the pick up, coil, cap, rotor (everything but the housing) and it STILL wouldn't fire. I bought a rebuilt dist and it started right up. I took all the new parts off the old dist and tossed the housing in the junk pile. I run an MSD 6A now since it replaced the sometimes troublesome HEI module. (IMO and experience, 90% of HEI problems are caused by "offshore" cheapo modules and/ or not having the right heat sink grease under the module.

10-06-2008, 10:47 AM	#7
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Truck will not start I had a control module that tested "good" and truck still wouldn't start. Got tired of screwing with it, so I bought a new module anyway... started right up __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

10-06-2008, 09:43 AM	#8
WIDESIDE72 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Cedar Park, Texas Posts: 7,500	Re: Truck will not start You probably haven't cussed at it enough or bled on it enough. Call me and hold it up to the phone and I will give it a good talking to for you. Make sure you cover your ears and no children are within shouting distance. It may get rough. HAHA

10-06-2008, 05:26 AM	#1
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	Truck will not start Well this one has been driving me crazy for a little while now. It's getting fuel and 12v to the dist. but nothing to the plugs. I have tried two coils one is new and had the module checked. Cap and rotor look like new but could be the problem, what do you think? __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug

10-06-2008, 09:20 AM	#2
soba_03 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Fairdale, Kentucky Posts: 560	Re: Truck will not start I assume we are talking an HEI set up? Check for presents of the carbon button that goes between coil and rotor. Is this a new distributor to this truck? If you have volts to the distributor not much to go wrong, coil lead or rotor button. Good luck...

10-06-2008, 10:23 AM	#9
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Truck will not start YEP.... you got to talk mean to it.

10-06-2008, 04:07 PM	#10
70rs/ss Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,270	Re: Truck will not start Yeah, a module is a cheap way to fix an otherwise tested good module! I like the accel or other name brand modules compared to the autozone/checker cheapies. I also carry a spare module as they fail from time to time. Summit sells a complete perf upgrade kit with a cap, rotor, coil, and module for fairly cheap and it is $$$ well spent!! Here Ya Go, $70 for the Summit version or $170 for the MSD version, I'd go with Summit since thier stuff is name brand stuff with thier name on it (Summit aluminum heads are Brodx IK for about $300 less, same head though, so the HEI stuff may be ACCEL or the like, just in a Summit box)! SUM-850030 Summit® GM HEI Ignition Tune-Up Kits HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Red, Kit Today $69.95 MSD-8501 MSD Ultimate HEI Kits HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Ultimate, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Kit Today $169.50 SUM-850032 Summit® GM HEI Ignition Tune-Up Kits HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Black, Kit Today $69.95

10-06-2008, 04:46 PM	#11
straitnate14 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Bartonville IL Posts: 415	Re: Truck will not start ya I bought a summit dizzy and it and it had a bad modual, took it in to test it and it passed, tapped it and tested and it faild put the old crusty gm one back in and what do you know no problems __________________ ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

12-16-2008, 05:27 AM	#12
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	Re: Truck will not start Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions? __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug

12-16-2008, 10:43 AM	#15
LOW DOUGH I'M TRUCK CRAZY! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Sachse, TEXAS Posts: 1,737	Re: Truck will not start Hmmm, so the new dis is in the right place. (TDC #1 cyl) Not 180 out. Had to ask... I used to do it every time. Do you have the dis power wire in the right place? If you are standing over the driver fender looking at the dis. Is the wire in the right side of the plug? Or closest to the fire wall? Cuase the one on the left would be for the tack. I don't know.... just thinking good luck Last edited by LOW DOUGH; 12-16-2008 at 10:44 AM.

12-16-2008, 01:19 PM	#16
MDC Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: N Texas Posts: 727	Re: Truck will not start Is the distributor turning as you crank the engine? Just a thought __________________ 67 C10 Shortbed 327 05 F150 4x4 NO APPOLOGIES 's 02 Xpress X19 02 Yamaha VMax 150 www.xpressboats.com Nothing says 'poor craftmanship' like wrinkles in your duct tape

12-16-2008, 03:09 PM	#17
70rs/ss Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,270	Re: Truck will not start You need to swap the power wire, 9 volts isn't enough to fire the hei, and it'll burn the module up. Pull the old power wire (white wire with a fiberglass insulation wrap on it) from the firewall harness plug and replace the wire with a heavy guage wire, that way it gets 12+ volts at crank and in Accessory. Many years ago I wired one into the fuse box and it wouldn't fire, had 12v with the key on but nothing at crank, so I had it on a accesory terminal which is only powered when the key is in the ON position, not the crank position, which is why I always just replace the resistance wire so the power feed functions as it should and the dist always gets the proper amount of voltage, when it is supposed to! Last edited by 70rs/ss; 12-16-2008 at 03:11 PM.

12-17-2008, 04:08 PM	#18
JHART 1972 Shorty Owner Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Stationed in Cali , born and raised in PHX Arizona. Posts: 796	Re: Truck will not start So what happened with this? Did you get her runing? Just curious. This is a good thread to have for others in case they run into your problem. -Hart __________________ 1972 Chevy Shorty C-10- Project In Work http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...ATT1721941.jpg- New Project



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01-01-2009, 07:52 PM	#19
c10chevy69 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 205	Re: Truck will not start update #2: Still no luck here folks. Added new cap and rotor still no fire. Tested voltage at the firewall connection and got 12v at acc. but only got 8.5v at crank. Now here's the strange thing this truck used to run at one point because I do remember driving it home when I bought it. I sure am glad I don't actually need this truck right now because I really am beginning to think that this truck does not like me. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated. __________________ 1969 chevy C10 long bed 350 4bbl auto p/disc and 5 lug

01-01-2009, 08:11 PM	#20
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Re: Truck will not start Just to get it going....By-pass the BS and make a "jumper wire" ...run a "new" wire directly from the distributor to the positive side of the battery. If this voltage thing is your problem, it will start right up. You have to remove it to shut the engine off, the key won't do it. This is of-course just a testing/diagnosis thing, but if it works we can steer you to the perminant fix.

01-07-2009, 11:42 PM	#22
hilandr452 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 357	Re: Truck will not start Almost sounds like someone replaced a points distributor with an HEI and used the original power wire, which would have a ballast resistor in the line to reduce the voltage to not burn the points. If you tried the battery jump idea that would say whether it is or not. Dan __________________ Dan Smith Colorado Springs, CO 71 GMC Custom Camper "Longhorn" 454, TH400 73 Chevy Camper Special (Yes, it's badged a camper special) Flat Bed Motorhome conversion 454, standard tranny *"DON'T TREAD ON ME !!!"* My Project: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20829244 , http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/24654442

01-08-2009, 12:53 AM	#23
kulturekat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: stillwater, oklahoma Posts: 566	Re: Truck will not start hey c10 i noticed you are in okc where about in okc are you at if you need parts or whatever let me know i went through the exact same stuff a while back.

01-08-2009, 11:43 AM	#24
Kayotic Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lawrenceville, Ga Posts: 300	Re: Truck will not start I'd agree with the resister wire. Mine did the same. Seems you can't just splice into it anywhere either. If your hard wire testing gets you running then that is the porblem. Get rid of that wire(the one with the insulating sleeve.. I think my wire was yellow, may be corrected though) Anyway I tried splicing into that wire at the firewall with no success. Ended up cutting the resister wire at the block, leaving an inch or so then made the splice. She's purring now.(Runs better then my daily). Atleast your voltage is right on, both at hot and crank.

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