Sway bar info

[C-10volvo]

As this "season" is coming to a close and a prepare the truck for fall and winter sitting on jack stands I want to get a few things done on the front end.

I will be rebuilding the entire front end all the way till the A arm bushings. During that process, I will be putting on Belltech drop spindles with the possibility of a 1" drop coil if its not low enough.

My Question: What swaybars are you all using? (I would like to go to a thicker aftermarket option to match the rear)

Does lowing require any special drop links or bushings for the sway bar? (I know a spindle doesn't change the geometry, but will the spring cause any interference?)

Other than drilling some holes, nothing too radical needs to be done right? (This is a original no front sway bar truck)

Thanks for the info guys!
Ken Morgan

[N2TRUX]

You can run aftermarket, or cheap out like me and get a factory 3/4 ton bar. I bought a used bar and went with new hardware and bushing for about half the price of an aftermarket bar.

The factory "stands" on the frame are riveted on. You don't really need them since you are lowering the truck. You have two options there. You can use the ECE lowered stands (link) or you can bolt the clamps directly to the frame.

Since you are going with a mild drop, I would think the lowered stands would give you the best alignment and possibly prevent binding. That's just opinion though as there are several that have mounted them to frame with no stands and haven't had a problem.

[dooce]

ECE only shows an application up to '72. Will they still fit on the 73-87 frames?

[S10Fan]

I don't have a picture to post but I bolted my clamps directly to the frame. No issues at all. Drop spindles and cut 1 coil.

[smashingchuck]

Here's mine. It's a Bell Tech bar from Summit. Very thick, and good quality, comes with all the mounting hardware.

[C-10volvo]

Thanks for the info guys.
I'll see if I can save some cash and try out the junkyard approach first.
Are 3/4 and 1 ton bars are the same?

Thanks again,

[LEEVON]

I believe the 3/4 and 1 ton are the same. Save your cash and get one from a junkyard. Bushings are cheap too. Even the 1/2 ton bars are a major improvement. Like N2TRUX said, you can get ECE stands or connect to the frame. Another option is to use the factory stands and flip the bar/straps to the inside.

If you get a junkyard bar, the stands are riveted to the frame. I paid them $20 extra and they just torched out sections of the frame too.

[Slonaker]

If you go with just spindles, there is no need for the dropped stands. The control arms will be in the same location with regard to the frame as they were before. I doubt 1" springs would make much of a difference either.

I bought my stands from the dealer. I think theywere about $9 apiece when I bought them 3 or 4 years ago.

Slonaker

EDIT: My truck didn't have a swaybar either. There were no holes to drill. The holes for the stands and for the swaybar ends were already there. It couldn't be easier.

I have 2.5" drop spindles, new stock springs, and stock stands for the swaybar. No problems. No binding, and they have never hit any curbs or anything.

[smashingchuck]

When my truck was static dropped (cut coils only, stock spindles) it still had the stock stands on it with about 5-6" of drop. Never had a problem with that either.