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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 707
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Novice Questions
Hello,
My 61 3/4 ton is needing more work done to her than I thought. I'm kinda in a guessing game as to what I should do so I thought I would check in here first before I mess something up. 1st question: My tail lights, brake lights don't work. They were working at one time, but has stopped. I've checked the bulbs and they're fine. I pulled the fuse, it broke when I pulled it out but it wasn't bad (as far as I could tell). What do you think the chances are that the wiring is bad? Is there some kind of a wiring kit that can replace the old wiring? 2nd question: I notice my driver's side bed is really bad with dents, holes, and rust. To fix this problem I'm thinking about replacing the outer skin of the bed. How do I take that off? Would I be better off taking the entire bed off and then working on it? Or do you think I should do something else? 3rd question: My floor pans, rocker panels, etc are pretty bad. Would it be necessary to support the cab when I go to cutting it up or can I cut out, say, the driver's side floor pan, weld it up and then proceed to the passenger's side without the need to support it? That's it for now. Thanks again for everyone's help. I wouldn't even have dared to fix up a classic truck if it wasn't for this site. Joe |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,144
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Re: Novice Questions
#1: Check the wiring 'harness' for the rear lights. It runs out of the cab firewall along the inside of the drivers side frame rail. These typically get burned by less than precision work when cutting/torching out old exhaust systems or just general use & abuse over the years. There's likely a bare spot in the wiring that's grounding out against the metal frame.
#2: Look for another bedside. Work it (body-work/paint) so that your happy w/the fit & finish. Then just swap it for your current one. #3: Cut out only what's necessary for the repair & keep the repairs in 'manageable' amounts. Too often, novices will cut alot out & become over-whelmed & wind up abandoning the project. Start small & as your confidence grows, so can the complexity (size) of the tasks. Floor supports should only be done an area @ a time.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 11-04-2008 at 12:06 AM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Jose
Posts: 847
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Re: Novice Questions
#1-Just like Scoti said, but there is also a plug at the rear of the bed that attached to the tail light harness. Make sure it is plugged in, and you can also use a test light to check it at the connection.
#2 ditto, just replace the whole bedside, they unbolt if I remember correctly #3 I'd do a piece at a time, and bracing almost always helps if you can do it. If bracing is not possible, I'd support the truck on a flat level surface to try to keep anything from moving while performing the repair. Last edited by PrerunnerRob; 11-04-2008 at 01:46 AM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 707
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Re: Novice Questions
Thanks. That was where the problem was at. It was the yellow wire came undone. I have taillights and break lights now, but the light is very weak. I'm wondering if I have the wrong bulbs in there. How would I find out what bulb # I need for the front and back?
Thanks again, Joe |
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#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,144
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Re: Novice Questions
Quote:
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 11-04-2008 at 05:13 PM. |
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#6 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 3,906
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Re: Novice Questions
Quote:
#1157 is the correct lamp for the tail lights and the front park lights and they are available at your favorite local auto parts store (FLAPS). |
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#7 |
Resistance is Futile
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mesa,Arizona
Posts: 3,520
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Re: Novice Questions
If you remove a bedside be prepared to cut one small weld at the bottom of the square post at the bac of the bed near the tailgate.
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64 CHEVY PICK-UP > http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...otrash+re-hash 64 CARRYALL >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1964+suburban 66 LB >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427852 STRENGTH/DETERMINATION/MERCILESS/FOREVER .......posted via stationary device |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 707
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Re: Novice Questions
Can you tell me if the bucket is where the bulb is at? I took the lens off and saw two screws that I could attach one end of the ground wire to. Do I then have to drill a hole through the back of it to run my wire to the frame?
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 707
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Re: Novice Questions
Thank you!
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#10 |
Its Deja Vu time again
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Marysville, North of Seattle WA
Posts: 815
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Re: Novice Questions
Yep I second and Im sure others will as well that a bad ground will give you weak tail lights.
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