Tips on how to get rusted u-bolts out of trailing arms needed

[MT71c-10]

I tried a search about this but came up with nothing. I'm in the process of adding a lowering block to my 71, and ran across one side of the u- bolt is rust-welded to my trailing arm. Does any body have any ideas on how to get this stubborn boy out? I've already messed up the threads on the u-bolt too much so I can't try the double nut and big cheater bar meathod. It's been soaking in penatrating oil for 24 hours now, and my bonehead put some visegrips on it and smacked it with a deadblow and got nothing.Any ideas are welcome. Thanks!

[pcmcobra]

try a nutbreaker. Has worked well for me in the past, about $12 at local auto parts store

[cparman]

I had a similar problem that I cured with a torch. Heated up the control are, and made the rust unhappy. I had put the nuts back on, and smacked the nuts with a BFH. IF you do not have access to a torch, might cut the ubolts off, remove the control arms and take the arms to someones torch.

[MT71c-10]

Originally Posted by cparman

I had a similar problem that I cured with a torch. Heated up the control are, and made the rust unhappy. I had put the nuts back on, and smacked the nuts with a BFH. IF you do not have access to a torch, might cut the ubolts off, remove the control arms and take the arms to someones torch.

I'd be a little nervous to torch the trailing arms, I do have a torch, I'd think about heating the u-bolt (whats left of it) but that doesn't sound like my first idea. Don't take this wrong, I don't want to sound like an **s, but i will put it on the list of to try, it just might be # 4 or 5. Thanks for the help!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by MT71c-10

I'd be a little nervous to torch the trailing arms, I do have a torch, I'd think about heating the u-bolt (whats left of it) but that doesn't sound like my first idea. Don't take this wrong, I don't want to sound like an **s, but i will put it on the list of to try, it just might be # 4 or 5. Thanks for the help!

Why? There is nothing critical on that end of the arm that heat would damage.

If you heat the arm good and warm and thump the stub of the u bolt, it will eventually move.

[MT71c-10]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Why? There is nothing critical on that end of the arm that heat would damage.

If you heat the arm good and warm and thump the stub of the u bolt, it will eventually move.

FYI, I am armed with enough info to make me dangerous. I don't know everything about anything. I follow what I have learned, and that usually doesn't work out for me. I've always been told not to heat suspension parts, I guess there is the exception to the rule.

I can learn, thanks for your expertice!!

[MT71c-10]

Im not sure what a nut breaker is exactly. I do have the bolts off, if thats what it does, it's the shaft of the u-bolt that is stuck.

I just went and had a delicious , and a cold one and thought that my next plan of action is to take the trailing arm off and maybe, just maybe, I could get a little better angle on the little and ??????????? I'm thinking BFH, Stop me if I'm wrong, somebody already needs to take my visegrips away from me.

My darn "easy button" never seems to work.

[cparman]

if the threaded ends of the ubolts are already buggered up, and you have the torch hot. heat up the control arm, get it nice and red, and the get the BFH, and hit it like it like ya mean it. Try and drive it out a bit, and then drive it back in as a means to loosen up the rust

OH YEA buggered up is a southern term. kinda like FUBAR

[thirdstreettito]

I used a grinder and a hammer and WD-40.

[Irishpilot]

I just went through this last week. I used a cold chisel to spread apart the trailing arm to loosen the pressure on the u-bolt. I then used a sledge to hit on the trailing arm around the u-bolt. Take care to not hit too hard as you will dent the trailing arm. use force as you deem fit, but be careful! Then use the cold chisel around the u-bolt and you should be able to get it to break free. took me and a buddy about an hour of manipulating to get it to pop out.

[pissonNOS]

have u tried a floor jack under the portion that is still coming thru and using the weight of the truck to help?? i used to do it all the time on forklifts and it worked great

[cdowns]

instead of oil trying to squirt vinegar down the remnant of the ubolt will help disolve the rust

[MT71c-10]

Originally Posted by pissonNOS

have u tried a floor jack under the portion that is still coming thru and using the weight of the truck to help?? i used to do it all the time on forklifts and it worked great

Yep, this is the 1st thing I tried, I will try the vinegar this morning and then retry.

Irishpilot, I think thats my next plan, remove the trailing arm and give it a go!

Thanks.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

heat it mildly a few times and quench with a good penetrating oil. If that doesnt get it... you will need to get the dude hot hot and throw the smack down with a good deadblow ( regular framing hammers need not apply). If you get it red hot... do not quench it. That will harden the steel and make it brittle. If you heat it to much you will anneal the metal but in order to do that with a propane torch you will be there for a long time

[kizer]

I just cut the U-bolt on both sides of the axle removeing the arch. Give the bolt a good drink of PB blaster or your favorite penatrating oil. Try and twist the remaining bolt turning on the nut back and forth some the remove the front bolts from the cross member so you can remove the control arm with bolts in tact.



Flip the control arm over so the top of the bolt is pointing down to the ground. Give it a few wacks try and turn with the nut again and give it a few more wacks and the bolt will push it self through.

[MickMc]

Heat up the bolt and pour brake fluid on it. Works everytime.

I've also used candle wax instead of brake fluid.


Mick

[pooz911]

i keep a bottle of Iodine in my toolbox. its cheap from rite aid and works better than penetrating oil.

[scotts62]

Originally Posted by MickMc

Heat up the bolt and pour brake fluid on it. Works everytime.

I've also used candle wax instead of brake fluid.


Mick

Yep candle works really good especially on broken engine bolts

[MT71c-10]

Thanks for all the tips guys! Finally got it out out on Tuesday. I"m not sure what exactly worked the best, I had it sitting in penatrating oil for a while, tried heating and dumping brake fluid on it, poured vineger on it. I was at the parts store, getting rags and a new 1/2" ratchet (broke it trying to get the u-bolt nuts off) so i bought a new bigger BFH, and saw a pipe wrench there and a light came on! So I clamped my 18" pipe wrench on it, gave it the size 11 and it slowly started to turn!!! Finally progress, so I broke out the new BFH and wala, one stubborn 1/2 of a u-bolt in my hand!

So now my question is. Can a u-bolt feel pain? I think i'm going to get midevil on this thing! Payback is priceless.