Building a dually my way....

[Tx Firefighter]

Well fellas, I'm doing a bit of a project and thought due to the depth of it all I would go ahead and post a build thread.

Basically, I have always wanted a dually truck to use as my work truck. I looked at length and couldn't really find a decent truck to build. I've been watching the buildup thread of 67 C30 and his truck with hips and it's not exactly what I need. I wanted the final product to be a cab and chassis, or a narrow rear truck.

Ultimately I decided that the 3/4 ton truck that I have now offered enough positive attributes that I decided it was worth the trouble of converting it to a dually.

To start with, its a highly optioned Super Cheyenne with a big block, TH400, Dana 60, tilt column, air conditioning, and leaf spring rear end.



In my research, I was told that converting the rear end was simply a matter of bolting on the wheels and making room for them to fit under the bed.

So my first purchase was 4 dually wheels. When I went to fit them, the inner wheel would not clear the brake drum. It fell about 7/16 of an inch short of seating onto the hub.

I am pretty attached to the rearend I have currently since it has a 300 dollar cover on it and new internals, including carrier, ring and pinion, and all bearings. I wanted to make this work without having to swap out the entire rear differential for a wider one.



So, what I did was order a set of 1/2 inch thick spacers off ebay. These would of course, coupled with dual wheels, require longer wheel studs.

I studied Dorman's website at great length and found a part number that is the same as my current Dana 60 studs, but greatly longer. So, off to the parts store I go, armed with my number. It took him 2 days and a lot of phone calls, but he came through.



(contd)

[Tx Firefighter]

(contd).

This is the desired part number:



Comparison old to new:



Pressing them in place. They fit perfectly !



The final hub with new, longer studs :



More tomorrow night...

[Boog]

It all starts with a bolt doesn't it? I've had this idea in the back of my mind all along that you might be ending up going this route. I mean you've already got the truck so why not? I wonder what's the deal with the wheels NOT mounting up as said?

[Tx Firefighter]

As I get older I don't believe much second hand information anymore and only half of what I see.

That's why I'm documenting this thing so explicitly. When someone asks a question in the future, I can say for sure, and offer picture proof of what it takes to do this job.

[Rokcrln]

What size rim was it you picked up? Would a larger diameter have cleared?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Tx Firefighter]

Normal 16 inch late 70s dually wheels. Actually made by Accuride.

A larger wheel would definitely have made the difference. If I would have committed to later model 17 inch dually wheels, this would not have been an issue whatsoever.

[krue]

Looks like another FAQ when you're done.

[Palf70Step]

Always like watching your projects TX, so I am here to see what goes too. I like your idea. I have thought about it at times also.

[Tx Firefighter]

Slight delay on this project.

I ordered a blast cabinet and am ordering a powdercoating gun today.

I want this stuff pretty nice, so I will wait a week or so for the new tools to arrive. Next parts you see should be powdercoated instead of painting.

I should have progress pictures after this weekend though.

I have a good bit of parts arriving every day, so progress shouldn't be held up waiting too much.

Springing for those 6 new tires is gonna sting the old pocketbook though.

[custom72c20]

Nice truck and build. Can you tell me where you got that Dana 60 cover. Thanks and good luck on the build.

[Tx Firefighter]

The cover is from Maghytec.

It uses an o ring for seal rather than a gasket or silicone.

It also has a built in dipstick to measure the fluid level whenever you want.

[Rokcrln]

Tx I saw this truck on a Job site Monday and popped a few pic's for you (sorry Camera Phone) but it was a perfect example of a nice dually/work/daily driver. I would like one of these one day

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[custom72c20]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The cover is from Maghytec.

It uses an o ring for seal rather than a gasket or silicone.

It also has a built in dipstick to measure the fluid level whenever you want.

Thanks and nice progress.

[Tx Firefighter]

Kevin,

I sure hope I can figure out where to get the cash for a set of Alcoas like that guy is running. I'm currently more on a paint my stockers or run simulators kind of budget, that is, about 900 short of Alcoas.

I'm bracing myself for buying six tires for this truck already. Tires and Alcoas would run about 2000 bucks total.

Today's progress was getting the back side done.

Everything went smoothly after I got all the parts here. GM Dana 60 brake parts are getting very hard to come by nowdays. The hub seals were particularly elusive.

Pardon the masking tape, the paint on the axles was still drying, so I wanted to make sure no dust got inside the rear before I put them back in place.

Brakes done :

Brake drum installed:



Spacer in place :



Tomorrow starts cleaning and rebuilding the front spindles, brakes, and rotors. They are a greasy mess right now. But, since they are 84 vintage, I expect the brake parts to be easy to source.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Kevin,


Tomorrow starts cleaning and rebuilding the front spindles, brakes, and rotors. They are a greasy mess right now. But, since they are 84 vintage, I expect the brake parts to be easy to source.

When you get the factory rotors off your truck, let us know if the spindles are the same. I have been told by 2 people that you can just put 1 ton rotors on '71 - '87 3/4 ton spindles, but I don't know that for fact. They say you can just swap rotors and go, and I'm curious if they that is true. Thanks!

[texanidiot25]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

When you get the factory rotors off your truck, let us know if the spindles are the same. I have been told by 2 people that you can just put 1 ton rotors on '71 - '87 3/4 ton spindles, but I don't know that for fact. They say you can just swap rotors and go, and I'm curious if they that is true. Thanks!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317654

Here you go, this will help the both of you.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by texanidiot25

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317654

Here you go, this will help the both of you.

I had been following that thread. I know how the 5 and 6 lug rotors interchange and how to use 73-87 parts and all of that. What we're talking about is removing a 3/4 ton rotor and replacing it with a 1 ton rotor on the same spindle. Some guys say it can be done, but no one has ever proven it one way or the other.

As you can see here, the 1 ton dually rotor is truly massive compared to any other rotor.

[fbird68]

Hey TX. Duallies are cool. I really like em when they are tucked in under the fleetsides.
I will be following along on your mods.
I have some spacers that are about two inches thick for my Dana 80 and they bolt on to shorter studs on the hub.
I may use them to keep the 4' between the tubs if the wheels don't stick out too far for my liking.
Keep the updates coming.

Richard

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by fbird68

Hey TX. Duallies are cool. I really like em when they are tucked in under the fleetsides.
I will be following along on your mods.
I have some spacers that are about two inches thick for my Dana 80 and they bolt on to shorter studs on the hub.
I may use them to keep the 4' between the tubs if the wheels don't stick out too far for my liking.
Keep the updates coming.

Richard

To maintain the 4' between the tubs means the outside tire sticking all the way out of the fender. I found when building mine that they either have to be tubbed or have outside flares/fenders to look right.

[67_C-30]

How far is the inner wheel from the wheel tub on it? Even with my wide rearend there's not much distance between the inner wheel tub and inner wheel. My hub sticks out past the bedside. I was almost certain you would have to run bigger spacers (like 2" or more) to have enough workable clearance with 3/4 ton rearend. The pic below was mine was just the inside wheel mounted.

I only mention this to save you some heartache when you get to that point. I didn't see if you said you were going to widen the inner tubs like 72Freak did on his truck. If you didn't have tires on the rims when you mocked it up, you may want to double check it.

[Tx Firefighter]

Will do on the rotor swap info. I was told that too.

The only reason I'm doing it like this is that the 84 front brakes are much larger pads and calipers than the 72 stuff is. I'm hoping for good stopping power, as this truck will be worked a lot and I need good brakes.

[Tx Firefighter]

And, by the way, 67 C30, I can't help but notice that your build thread has fallen pretty far off the front page. You're not sitting on the couch watching TV lately are you ? We need a progress fix !

[ERASER5]

Tx Firefighter, looking at your last picture, when you got those front spindles, did you uh, scalp them?

Is this a hatchet job?

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

And, by the way, 67 C30, I can't help but notice that your build thread has fallen pretty far off the front page. You're not sitting on the couch watching TV lately are you ? We need a progress fix !

Well, kind of. I've been spending a lot of my weekends watching the Tide on TV and in Tuscaloosa several times (I still can't believe we lost to Utah! )Now that football season is over, I can get back on it!

[Tx Firefighter]

It takes some serious muscle to hack through a frame rail with that little hatchet. You should feel my handshake though. Lumberjacks got nothing on me.