Show Your Welds

[SCOTI]

I'm going blind . .....

When I try & lay down a continuous bead, I'm all over the place. I just cannot seem to consistently find the gap I need to fill unless I pulse weld & take a slower, more methodic pace. I've tried pulling, pushing..... it doesn't matter (actually it does it's just worse one way vs the other). My best weld bead is the pulse weld pulling toward me R to L (I'm left handed).

I took a welding course in college which required passing a bend test for a passing grade; I did ok there. I keep thinking it's because I haven't welded anything big in a while but I've been practicing on test pieces w/o much (any) improvement. I've done some online searching & it would seem the pulse weld is a good strong weld. But instead of a tight stack of nickels, I've got them spread a little w i d e r & my bead is a little higher than I would like.

Anyone else have this issue when welding? It's getting harder to read my magazines but I figure the gap in the steel isn't quite the same .

[dave38]

First off go get your eyes checked. Try a lighter shade lens so you can see what you are doing and it will probably help with the straight line tremendously, I assume your using a mig welder, as for not penetrating turn the heat up and the speed down, the slower you go the better penetration you will get. Practice makes perfect and if you weld enough you are bound to get your rhythm back.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dave38

First off go get your eyes checked. Try a lighter shade lens so you can see what you are doing and it will probably help with the straight line tremendously, I assume your using a mig welder, as for not penetrating turn the heat up and the speed down, the slower you go the better penetration you will get. Practice makes perfect and if you weld enough you are bound to get your rhythm back.

Yes, I'm using a mig (Hobart/Miller 210). My first task will be additional practice w/a lighter lens tomorrow. I realized after consulting w/a friend that he also had this issue as his eyesight started to weaken & the lighter shade helped him.

I have been playing w/the speed & heat. I typically use the recommended settings & adjust the speed to where it 'sounds' best & doesn't splatter. Yet another friend (a pro) suggested using the recommended settings 'plus-one' on the heat for the .187" & greater stuff I'll be welding. With that, I was definitely fusing well when things were aligned.

I feel improving the ability to actually see WTF is going on will help a bunch cause I can zig/zag w/o getting off center of my gap. Thanks for the suggestions.

[72lb4x4]

Don't fry your eyes w/ a lighter lense. Not sure what's good, but isn't a 10 normal?

Not sure if it helps (I'm a not good (edited swear word) welder) but it was explained to me (and makes some sense) that wire speed controls current, the "heat" adjustment controls voltage (which impacts current).

Since the wire burns away, stopping current flow, then it makes sense that the faster the wire is pushed out, the more current, therefore the more heat, and the more potential for blow through.

I just try to think pf the physical operation to get an idea of what's going on...

Maybe a stitch or side to side motion is needed if you have larger gaps to fill?

[jlaird]

Scoti, what are we talking about here? Sheetmetal or heavy stuff? I'm assuming its sheetmetal because you mentioned pulse welding. But then you start the thread talking about trying to lay a continuous bead. If you clear this up, maybe I can help.

[crazy longhorn]

Scoti, I agree with Dave on lense selection. I have always run a #9 lense(bear in mind that I dont run a welder for 8 hrs a day tho....). Another option would be to run a gold lense, as they seem to show your work area as a little brighter. I run a 200 amp Lincoln for my hobby stuff, & can do some pretty nice work on the heavier stuff(1/8" up), but the tin work is a spot at a time.....its pretty damn hard to run a continual bead on the tin, without warping or burning through. Also, I am near sited, & the bi-focals jack with me! By reccomendation of the eye doc, I do better welding without the glasses(just wear safetys), as 1 1/2 -2 ft in front of my face I can still see/focus. Same with my puter.....I can read better @ that distance without the glasses best of luck,crazyL

[SCOTI]

Sorry for the confusion. I'm welding 3/16" & up (attempting). I do fine on sheet metal ( I checked a couple of nights ago just to make sure I wasn't going crazy).

It's just that for some reason when I'm trying to run a continuous bead, my eyes can't detect where the tip needs to be & I start wandering all over the place. My auto darkening hood is @ 13 & I'm not sure what my other is (I was going to check today). I'm going to get some varying lenses @ lunch & go from there & will see if they have the gold lens.

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Sorry for the confusion. I'm welding 3/16" & up (attempting). I do fine on sheet metal ( I checked a couple of nights ago just to make sure I wasn't going crazy).

It's just that for some reason when I'm trying to run a continuous bead, my eyes can't detect where the tip needs to be & I start wandering all over the place. My auto darkening hood is @ 13 & I'm not sure what my other is (I was going to check today). I'm going to get some varying lenses @ lunch & go from there & will see if they have the gold lens.

I've had this very issue and until recently I think it has improved. What I've started to do is shine one of those heavy duty portable lights(I think they are the halogen ones) at the work area. It helps out tremendously at brightening the area when your helmet is on and you are welding. For 3/16 and up, I always use a back and forth motion mainly to establish a timing rhythm to produce consistent looking beads. What I usually do C motion, pause, C motion, pause, etc, etc. Hope this helps.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jlaird

I've had this very issue and until recently I think it has improved. What I've started to do is shine one of those heavy duty portable lights(I think they are the halogen ones) at the work area. It helps out tremendously at brightening the area when your helmet is on and you are welding. For 3/16 and up, I always use a back and forth motion mainly to establish a timing rhythm to produce consistent looking beads. What I usually do C motion, pause, C motion, pause, etc, etc. Hope this helps.

As I was thinking of this, I was wondering what had changed in my procedures that would cause such an impact.

Let's see what the problem might be (pun intended ). Same welder, same machine, same hood, different location. Hhmm.... what's different? Dumb-a me didn't consider that my usual work environment is my driveway w/the ultimate of light sources provided courtesy of ma' nature. I'm now in a shop environment w/shop lighting which would explain the sudden loss in the ability to see the weld environment.

[FnLow69]

wow 13 is kinda dark, i use a 9-10 and im only 23 and i cant see what im doing with anything higher than a 10...

[meansting04]

If your helmet is adjustable turn up the sheild to a higher setting so u can just see the bead and hot metal. i had eye surgery and this is what i had 2 do.

[grayw0lf]

I run from #9 to 11 shade. #9 seems sufficient for typical automotive sheetmetal.

The best way to balance your wire speed & heat is to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I know my Lincoln (& I'm sure others) have a chart inside the door where you replace the spool.

After that check to make sure your polarity is correct & I'd recommend www.hobartwelders.com. They have a great welding message board w/ a decent number of professional welders whose work you'd swear was done by robots.

John O>.

[SCOTI]

Thanks again for the suggestions. Sometimes the simple stuff can be overlooked.

I do use the recommended settings inside the cabinet (Hobart/Miller). I then adjust the speed per the material. I just returned from purchasing a new exterior lens. The original was old & pitted (old enough it was actually glass). I got a #9 tinted lens (the current looked to be a 13 according to the guy @ the counter) & a 1.5 magnifying lens too. I just might be able to see now. I also got some new batteries for my Jackson auto-dim helmet so I can change the settings on it as well.

I'll post up a pic of the exterior lens for giggles..... it was way past time for replacement. I guess the sunlight just helped me see through the mess .

[BuiltByBrooks]

I use a 14 shade with everything.. When i first started, It was even hard see through 10 but you get used to it after awhile

[b_gate13]

i have allways used a #10 lens, but in some lighting conditions you just cant see the line. so I will take my soapstone and run it through where the bead is going to be. your eyes can fix on the white line pretty easy evem w/ the darker lenses. and the soapstone doesnt affect the weld, or burn off like a paint pen or sharpie marker

[SCOTI]

I went back out to the shop after work & played around a little. The new lenses definitely made the difference. I can't see everything now & laid down some decent clean looking beads w/good penetration on scrap metal.

Tomorrow I'll actually fuse a couple of pcs. together w/the proper beveled edges & stuff. I'm confident it will be business as usual. Thanks again.....