Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket

[Captainfab]

Here is the power brake booster adapter bracket that I've been making since 1993. This bracket fits 1963-66 Chevy and GMC Pickups, Suburbans and panels and is 100% bolt on using holes already in your firewall. The booster side of the bracket has a 3 3/8" x 3 1/2" hole pattern. Boosters with this pattern are commonly found on S10's and full size pickups, Suburbans, Blazers and Tahoes from 1988 to at least 1998. Of course you will have to join the booster pushrod to your stock MC pushrod that attaches to your brake pedal. This can be done by either threading both ends and using a coupling nut, or by just welding them together once you determine the correct length.

I have had the first of these brackets on my '66 Suburban and have driven over 120,00 miles with no issues. I have also installed these on a couple of local pickups with good results as well. If you are wanting to add hydroboost to your pickup, Suburban or Panel I have the mounting plates that will mount a hydroboost unit to this bracket as well HERE

The price on the bare steel brackets is $57.50 plus a flat $16.25 shipping in the US. If you are located elsewhere contact me for shipping charges. You can also get this bracket in a satin black powder coat for an additional $9.00. This pricing not current and up to date. Mounting hardware is included. To place an order post in this thread, send me a PM or send an email to captainfab454@hotmail.com, and I will give you the ordering and payment instructions and current lead time.

[Captainfab]

Here are some installed pics.

[BSB1965]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Here are some installed pics.

Hi, I'm a new member to the forum. I have a 1965 chevy truck that is mostly stock but I would like to make some upgrades. I have seen your Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket and would be interested in purchasing one. How would I go about buying one and what booster master cylinder combination would you recommend? Thanks!

[Captainfab]

What booster and master depends on what braking system you have. Is it drum/drum or disc/drum or disc/disc? There is a short list of compatable boosters in post#1 and a more complete list in post #183 on page 8.

I'll send you a PM with purchase details.

Originally Posted by BSB1965

Hi, I'm a new member to the forum. I have a 1965 chevy truck that is mostly stock but I would like to make some upgrades. I have seen your Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket and would be interested in purchasing one. How would I go about buying one and what booster master cylinder combination would you recommend? Thanks!

[my5chev]

Hey Capt, I'm needing a booster bracket for a 65 lwb fleet.

Thanks

[Captainfab]

I replied to your PM

[Roadsterkid]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Here are some installed pics.

I need to get one of the brake booster brackets. What is the easiest way to do this.

[Captainfab]

I will send you a PM with ordering and payment info.

Originally Posted by Roadsterkid

I need to get one of the brake booster brackets. What is the easiest way to do this.

[Salmon Slayer]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Here are some installed pics.

I hava a 65 c10 4x4. ,,need a power brake booster assy with adapter ,,and a power steering conversion plate to mount a 79 Blazer power steering unit on this truck,,,
Jim 406 596 7277

[Captainfab]

Sorry but I simply do not have time for phone calls, nor can I take your payment over the phone. Purchasing instructions are in post #1 of every one of my for sale threads. Send me a PM or an email and I will be happy to get you take care of. I went ahead and sent you a PM.

Originally Posted by Salmon Slayer

I hava a 65 c10 4x4. ,,need a power brake booster assy with adapter ,,and a power steering conversion plate to mount a 79 Blazer power steering unit on this truck,,,
Jim 406 596 7277

[Captainfab]

I am officially notifying everyone that I will be on vacation from 02-05-18 thru 02-13-18. I will do my best to get all orders built and shipped before I leave, if placed by 01-31-18. Orders placed while I am gone will be built and shipped in order of receipt of payment once I return. Thanks for understanding.

[ljackson]

I have a 64 C-10. Is this setup for a disc/drum? Can I use it for drum/drum until I upgrade the front.
Eugene

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by ljackson

I have a 64 C-10. Is this setup for a disc/drum? Can I use it for drum/drum until I upgrade the front.
Eugene

Yes you can use it for a drum/drum brake setup. Use of this bracket has no direct effect on your braking system. This bracket simply allows you to add a power brake booster to your truck using a factory brake booster and without drilling more holes in your firewall. My '66 Suburban currently has drums all around with this same bracket. You'll just need to use the correct master cylinder.

Thanks for asking, let me know when you would like to get one.

[love trucks]

want to add power brakes to my 62 don't like the bearing that are used in 62 can I use 64/66 hubs, spindels even A arms if nessary don't want to change complete crossmember. and then add the power brake booster?
Thank you.

[Captainfab]

I believe you can use the '63-'70 hubs, but that would be all you could use. I am not that familiar with the '60-'62 front suspension since I am not a fan of them. You might post this question in the '60-'66 discussion forum.

Will you need the booster bracket for use with an auto trans or the one with the hydraulic clutch? And in bare steel or satin black powder coat?

Originally Posted by love trucks

want to add power brakes to my 62 don't like the bearing that are used in 62 can I use 64/66 hubs, spindels even A arms if nessary don't want to change complete crossmember. and then add the power brake booster?
Thank you.

[joe231]

very cool John!

in the first 2 pics...what master is that?

do you know what older masters are compatible with the 88-98 boosters?

[Captainfab]

The first two pics are of my Suburban. That booster was off of a '70-'72 Impala, but that is basically the same as the '88-'98 pickup one. I haven't tried any of the older masters on the '88-'98 boosters, but I would imagine it wouldn't be anymore difficult than possibly modifying or changing the pushrod. I have one of those boosters at the shop. I'll see if I can find time tomorrow to pull the MC off and take a look.

[struggles]

I'm interested in two of the power steering plates. Will paypal when I have a total, w/ shipping.
Steve

[Captainfab]

Steve I sent you a PM

Thanks
John

[duallyjams]

Will this bracket work with a hydro boost system ?

[Captainfab]

It will with another plate that I will be offering that will be a direct bolt on to this bracket. This way you can use most any GM hydroboost unit just by changing the mounting bracket on the hydroboost itself. The cost on that bracket will be $20.00, and if purchased with this adapter bracket the shipping will be free. The hydroboost units have a 1 5/8" threaded center that attaches them to whatever bracket was needed for the vehicle application. This takes a special socket, which I will provide to customers for a refundable $20 deposit. You will just have to pay the return shipping which can typically be done for ~$5.

An option would be to use a hydroboost from a '88-'98 truck which has the correct mounting pattern, but the hydroboost unit is offset towards the bottom. This would require you to elongate the hole in your firewall and drill a new hole in your brake pedal to attach the pushrod.

[Captainfab]

Here are some pics of one powder coated satin black. I also forgot to mention in my first post (really wish we could edit for more than 5 mins) is that these come with grade 5 hardware.

[Chuck78]

Absolutely! The 60-62 uses the combo brake/clutch master, with the holes in the firewall 2.5" apart from each other for the pedal pushrods. To ditch the factory master and upgrade to a dual reservoir brake master and seperate clutch master, you basically have two options that cost $450-$500 - which include a firewall plate, booster bracket, booster, brake master, and seperate clutch master. The other type abandons the factory clutch linkage (factory puts clutch linkage over top of steering column and out the firewall to the engine side of the brake pedal rod), and adds a small Wilwood clutch master directly in front of the clutch pedal and sorta tucked behind the booster on the fender side of the brake setup.

Slepysal just posted about his setup installing the latter, the small compact remote reservoir type, but for those of us who would like to continue using the existing hole in the firewall and corresponding clutch linkage, you basically need to spend the $500 or else use a custom fabricated booster bracket and space your power booster about 4.5" off the firewall, and probably allow a notch in the booster bracket's firewall mounting flange to allow the clutch master to bolt on.

If you use the WIlwood clutch master with integral aluminum reservoir like on soba_03's new setup, the mounting holes are top and bottom, so theres minimal interference. I'm using a 1962 single reservoir brake master (for auto trans trucks) with the 1-1/8" bore, and removing the residual check valve in the master to use as a clutch master, This costs half of the Wilwood unit ($30), and I can order rebuild parts for it at any store. This factory master is the same size as the Wilwood, but the mounting Bolt pattern where it mounts to the firewall is a diagonal one. This might require a larger notch in the bracket, where the bracket flanges out 90 degrees and is flat on the firewall.
The factory master I'm talking about is the one with the rectangular reservoir, not the round ones used on some later models. The round ones were a 1" bore and also put the lines out the wrong side (into the booster if used as clutch). The A1 Cardone # 1034403 that I'm using has the line going straight out the bottom of the front.
Best bet is to use an 8" dual diaphragm booster for this, and they seem to have a 3.5" square bolt pattern. the 67-70 1 tons use a smaller dual diaphragm, but lots of aftermarket hot rod stuff is available, like the one I plan to get from Pirate Jack's.

Here's some pictures:





this is the other option if you want to abandon the factory clutch linkage, and block off the hole in the firewall:
[img]http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/BOOSTER/BM1750.JPG


You can see the dimensions of the Wilwood unit on their website.

[Chuck78]

Here's a closeup of the factory single shared reservoir clutch and brake master in case you weren't familiar with the 60-62 clutch setups.



You'd basically have to just space the booster off the firewall about 4.5" or so (depends somewhat on the profile of the back of the booster that is being used, some will allow more clearance), and then notch out the engine side of the bracket's firewall mounting flange, and then all that's left is to extend the brake pedal pushrod. Pirate Jack's sells several pieces that are pushrods and pushrod extenders, and most people could probably just make up a threaded piece that would work, depending on the configuration of the booster's pushrod.

I'm going to use probably the 8" dual diaphragm adjustable pushrod unit from Pirate Jack's for $130. Same thing without an adjustable pushrod is $99. This was just so that I can keep the drums up front for now and use a deep pushrod bore master, and then later readjust it and run a standard shallow pushrod bore master for front disc applications - for when I actually have time to do the crossmember swap.

The 67-70 3/4 and 1 ton trucks used what I believe is an 8" dual diaphragm booster, and it has the correct master cylinder (1-1/8" bore drum/drum) for our trucks if retaining all drums and switching to a safer dual reservoir setup, so I thought about just using that.
part number is A1 Cardone #5471011 w/o master, #501011 w/master. No bracket.
The 1/2 ton 63-66 booster w/vertical bracket almost looks like it'd work just with some spacers, but I think it's a single diaphragm, and without a master, it costs almost as much as the 67-69 dual diaph. w/master. Both of these would need some more pushrod modifications, as they have a socket type and not threaded as far as what I can tell from the pictures. THe Pirate Jack's unit has a threaded pushrod. This would be best.

[Captainfab]

Yes I am familar with the clutch and brake masters on the '60-'62's. I don't have a running driving truck, but I have a couple of cabs here. Years ago I contemplated making a booster bracket for these, but for auto trans applications. I'll take a look at the manual trans application and see what I can come up with.