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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 97
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I have a 1969 K20 with a Dana 44 HD front axle with enclosed knuckles. It has been making a squeaking noise and clunking every once in a while for about a week now. The other night it finally broke. I was going around a right hand curve in the road and it went BANG and started pulling to the left really hard. I got it home but haven't torn it apart yet. I think it was the u-joint on the left side that broke. Has anyone ever had this happen? How hard are they to fix? What special tools are required? I'm hoping nothing major is screwed up in there.
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1969 3/4 ton 4x4 33's with no lift, gotta love it! A man and his truck, it's a beautiful thing. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: St. Johns, Arizona
Posts: 2,660
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I know that they do break. I assume you had the hubs locked in and maybe the t-case in?
They aren't majorly hard to pull and swap. Not much harder than changing out wheel bearings - once you get all the stuff off you would need to change wheel bearings, all that's left is the spindle (6 bolts) and then you can pull out the axle shaft. I don't think there's a c-clip in the diff housing. I have seen companies that sell beefed up u-joints, but I can't remember if they have them for D44's. Look in Four Wheeler maybe. It might not be a bad idea to change them both. Do you have large tires? If you do, I'd definately search for beefed up joints.
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my 2¢ - t.i.o.l.i. Bowen 1968 K20 fleet 1969 K10 swb fleet 1972 K10 Suburban 1972 C10 lwb step 1992 K1500 'burb 1995 K2500 'burb 1997 C1500 'burb 1999 K1500 2000 K1500 'burb Why do I own so many Suburbans? |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: grand bay, new brunswick , Canada
Posts: 648
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Sometimes when the U-joint lets go and it was in four wheel drive the ears on the the axle shafts can take a beating and now are useless. I am not familiar with closed knuckle trucks but I replaced the shafts in my 70 open knuckle 44 with new shaft from a 78 because the used u-joints with larger caps, and I assume larger ujoint overall. I cannot remeber when they started using the larger ones I think it may have been in 71. but getting the old shafts is not usually hard, sometimes the spindle is hard to get loose, but there is no c-clips like on a rear end. Good Luck
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Displaced Canadian in Monterey California 1970 K10, 350 HEI, 4spd. 3.73's NP205 33"BFG Mud Terrains Edelbrock Intake and carb. 12 bolt rear,dana 44 front with disk brakes |
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#4 |
Member since 2000
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico
Posts: 7,874
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happem to me......kinda
well i drove on the fron taxle for a while, i drove alot too so i dont doudt the beating a dana44 can take well i found out it was the spider gears. i thought it was the hub but nope it was the spider gears.....
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#5 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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I don't think there's many options for upgrading the u-joint in a closed knuckle 44. If you did tear up the u-joint and ears on the axle shafts probably be better to find a 44 from a 73 or newer and get the larger 297x u-joint and disc brakes. Fairly straight forward to take apart, no special tools needed, no c-clips. If you have Moses Ludel's GM Light Truck Owner's Bible he has a step by step rebuild for a closed knuckle 44 w/ pictures.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() Last edited by JIMs70GMC; 12-26-2002 at 08:40 PM. |
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