1982 6.2 diesel into a 1967 C10?

[wancosc356]

Hey guys. I've done a little research on this swap. Just wanting to get a few opinions and suggestions. I haven't bought either truck yet. Im looking at a 1982 Chevy 1500 with a 6.2 diesel motor with just over 100k miles. I am also looking at a 1967 Chevy C10. I am wanting to swap the 6.2 diesel into the C10. Here we go:
From what I understand, the diesel should drop right in with big block mounts and mate to a 700r4 without any issues. Is this correct?

I know I have read somewhere that I should be looking for the "J" model 1988 or newer engine, but aside from the horsepower/torque, is there any other differences in the motors?

I also understand that, the front suspension/brakes could be swapped out very easily by just bolting up the entire front suspension to the C10 frame?

One more thing, how hard would it be to get the a/c from the 82 diesel hooked up with the C10 cab?

Any info would be great. I hate to drop money on a complete diesel truck now and then find out later I should have gone with something else. Or is it just as easy to just buy a motor alone and do the swap. I wanna do the diesel swap and run Straight Vegetable Oil. Not a lot of info about this on this forum but I thought I would ask. Everyone on here has alot of great advice. Thanks.

Michael

[Average Joe]

Seems like I saw someone doin a swap like this in the project/build section. Interesting idea, maximum mileage and minimal cash outlay. Good luck to ya.

[The Big Green]

Sounds like you did your research. Sounds like a cool plan! You can use the front discs from up to 87, that's easy and you simply unbolt and knock the balljoints loose and use everything, calipers, spindle and rotor. Just remember when you buy everything balljoints outward, you are buying 73-87. The 71-72 Balljoints are different. AC stuff will work but of course your blower motor and vents are 67, and your AC compressor and components are 82 lime your deisel engine. Not sure about the mounts though. The 73-87 mounts fit our frame if spacers are used on the bottom at the crossmember. My 67 has 73 mounts I think but the deisels mounts may be a lot different, I'm not sure on that. I'll add this though, anything is possible.

[wancosc356]

The Big Green

I am trying to do my research. It gets a little tiring. But Im getting there. Thanks for the approval. I thought you could swap over the entire front suspension? control arms and all. What do u mean by "lime your diesel engine"???? Thanks

[wancosc356]

Thank you. It should be fun.

[thirdstreettito]

There are a few people doing that swap. All you said is right, but the A/C part. You'll need a 67-72 A/c kit or system, then you might be able to use the 6.2 A/C compressor etc. The difference between J and C code 6.2's are that the J code has a slightly thicker block, and yes more hp/tq. Get the 8th digit in the VIN of the 82, it will be C or J. J is best, but not necessary.

[wancosc356]

thirdstreettito

oh ok. i wasn't sure about the ac. thanks for the clarification. I also appreciate the code/VIN check. I will have to check that out. Thanks.

[texanidiot25]

You'll also need the tie rods, drag link, etc from the donor truck, or use conversion tie rod sleeves (CPP). 73-87 trucks have different tie rod ends than the 67-72s

[wancosc356]

texanidiot25

ok. the donor truck is complete and running. so i will have all parts. thanks for the heads up.

[special-K]

The difference in J and C code is simply in the emmissions equipment,which can be eliminated and is all but nil anyway.The`82 block is a stand alone block,introductory year.Is this one red?If it`s an original motor it will be red.The have a higher nickle content and are way better than the rest.You`ll find more running`82s than any other year.The military units were spec`d to retain the higher nickle content.They weren`t goung to let GM play the same game GM played on the general public.cracked main webs are far less likely in these blocks,but not still a concern.

[BluTrukker]

I assume you are wanting to do this for fuel mileage, and the ability to run bio diesel or veggie oil, right? Not trying to flame you for being different, but I work on the 6.2 and 6.5 in military hummers all day long and IMHO they are way under powered and have too many maintenance issues to put it in a driver. I have 11 years in and have yet to see one that made it over 40,000 miles. Granted there are probably some differences in the civilian version that make it more reliable. Also you probably won't drive it like a soldier does. And there are things you can do in the aftermarket that we can't do in the military. There, rant over! Ultimately its your ride, roll what you like and good luck with the swap. If you need any questions answered, drop me a line, I may be able to help.

[The Big Green]

My Fire Cheif has an old K5 military version 6.2. It's a little bigger than a truck, not sure the weight differences though. He loves the mileage, claims like 21ish, not bad for a bigger ride. My 85 K5's window sticker shows, 13city/15hwy with the 350 and 4wd, his of course is 4wd too, so a 2wd even better. His however is cold natured and underpowered when we need it on fires but it's never anything that terrible. I don't think he has replaced anything on that old Blazer, maybe it's the military version in it, or maybe he's lucky and got a good one.

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by BluTrukker

I assume you are wanting to do this for fuel mileage, and the ability to run bio diesel or veggie oil, right? Not trying to flame you for being different, but I work on the 6.2 and 6.5 in military hummers all day long and IMHO they are way under powered and have too many maintenance issues to put it in a driver. I have 11 years in and have yet to see one that made it over 40,000 miles. Granted there are probably some differences in the civilian version that make it more reliable. Also you probably won't drive it like a soldier does. And there are things you can do in the aftermarket that we can't do in the military. There, rant over! Ultimately its your ride, roll what you like and good luck with the swap. If you need any questions answered, drop me a line, I may be able to help.

I had two 6.2's, an 84 pick-up, and an 85 Conversion van (160,000 mi. when sold)...never had any problems with either that was not my fault. As far as power, I pulled vehicles on trailers with the van (79 Bronco) and had plenty of tourqe, I have owned 3 Turbo diesels since, and no they do not run like a new diesel, but for what you can get one for I would not hesitate to do that swap, I would save up for a Turbo kit if I did it though

[special-K]

My`92 K3500 6.5TD that I factory ordered is still my new vehicle that I operate my business out of.I got 215,000 trouble-free miles until I figured I should replace the original glow-plugs,inj.pump,and injectors.I put a hi-performance marine 6.5TD in from a custom `95 truck I built,then totalled after 15,000 miles.It blew up in January,so flat broke and not working,I swapped the old motor in with another pump I had and the injectors & glow-plugs.At 265,000 miles it purs like a kitten,has great torque,and is plenty quick.The truck never has weighed less than 7,000# since new.Then,I hook up the trailer,load the ladder racks with scaffold and squeeze what else will it in the bed to move from job to job.That motor doesn`t owe me a dime.It has saved me nearly it`s purchase price just in fuel savings.I don`t believe I`d ever pump one up again.

I contracted from a multi-millionaire builder that bought an`82 Blazer when the 6.2 came out.He would lend it to his superintendants to take up to Canada and out west for big game hunting or whatever.It just ran and ran.This guy has a huge beach house at Dewey Beach,DE and a ski lodge In Sun Valley,ID.Both with vehicles and all the toys stashed and waiting.Not to mention his home here in MD with an olympic size indoor pool,among it`s many features.He built and owns professional centers,a whole street of homes he built and rents,as well as an entire rental garage town home community,both in Columbia Maryland.Yet,the guy is down to earth.He has a down syndrom son and is a huge contributor to the Special Olympics.In the late-90s I met up with him and he was still running that Blazer with faded paint and God knows how many miles.I asked him if that thing ever gave him any aggrevation.His answer was,"Do you think I`d still have it if it did?"

My family SUV is this`91 6.2 powered Suburban:


Is there any other rig like this that gets 22 mpg?They aren`t too bad IMO.

[charlie diaz]

I've always wanted to do a swap like this, and I still may after my other projects are done. I also wanted to run straight vegetable oil in mine. I was going to set up a "lab" in my shop in the back yard and start making my own biodiesel. Then I started doing to research on how to go about it. I jumped on an "all-diesel" forum, and started to ask a lot of questions about what I need to do to get started. Almost every guy who was doing it full time was making his own bio-diesel for around .40 a gallon, but they said that the time and effort involved to do it made it almost worth it. You have to have a committed, plentiful source of veggie oil, and to make bio-fuel the right way, that is clean enough to run your truck on, it takes around a day and a half to three days per batch. You can't run just straight veggie oil through your injectors for very long without having to replace them from being clogged. A buddy of mine does it on his '90 cummings and he has to replace he's had to replace his injectors twice. He feels as though it's worth it for what he's saving in fuel costs.
I'm not trying to burst your bubble, I love the idea. I just want to make sure that you are well informed.

[charlie diaz]

sorry, I should have revised my post. The guys who were making their own biofuel said that it almost wasn't worth it. One of the only guys that was all about it said that he was heating and powering his whole home on it AND was powering all of his vehicles with it (diesel chevy, diesel jetta, diesel passat). Needless to say he was making something like 200 gallons a week.

[wancosc356]

Wow! I appreciate all the opinions and suggestions. I plan on running straight veggie oil with a conversion kit. Im not interested in making my own bio diesel, its too time consuming and don't have the room for a lab. So it sounds like the 1982 6.2 is a good candidate. I know there are alot of pros and cons. Im looking for the easiest swap...time and electrical wise. With the most reliability and power is a plus. Anyways, thank you all again.

[BluTrukker]

Like I said before there are differences between civilian and military versions of these motors. All my experience is with the military versions, and all they are good for is a boat anchor. 150HP when new. They are horribly de-tuned. A civilian version with proper maintenance and care would last as long as any other diesel. Also the military didn't change oil at all. They would test it on a regular basis and only change it if necessary. The Army finally wised up and started changing oil again. That and poor fuel, and abusive driving, are most likely the cause for premature failure in those engines. Like I said, in 11 yrs I haven't seen one with more than 40k on.

[69GMCLonghorn]

It will be an interesting swap. My personal opinion is: Put a blown 572 crate motor in it.

[westofb]

[QUOTE=

One more thing, how hard would it be to get the a/c from the 82 diesel hooked up with the C10 cab?


Michael[/QUOTE]

cut off the entire firewall from the donor and graft it on the 67! good luck!

[LONGHAIR]

If you are buying an entire "donor" vehicle anyway, why not just swap the whole front crossmember? As long as it is in good shape, you don't even have to take anything apart, and there is no "adapting" to deal with. You have to elongate 2 holes, but the others line right up. Then you know that all of the mounts are going to fit.

[wancosc356]

BluTrukker

I believe you. I appreciate the input. Thank you. I will definitely keep you in mind if I have any questions. You obviously know them inside and out.

69GMCLonghorn

It will be. I would love to put a blown 572 crate motor in it. If only I could afford the motor and the gas it would drink.

westofb

I actually considered that. But I decided it would be easier to just buy an A/C kit. Plus the grafting would take too much time. hahahaha

LONGHAIR

Thank you. Thats what I was asking. I thought that I could do that. If you say that is true. Ill take your word. It would make it easier for me. Do u know if the wheel width would be the same and/or if the wheels would be in the same position in the fender well? Also, what two holes will have to be elongated and how would that be best done? Sweet!!! Thanks

[thirdstreettito]

Originally Posted by wancosc356

BluTrukker

I believe you. I appreciate the input. Thank you. I will definitely keep you in mind if I have any questions. You obviously know them inside and out.

Sorry but, if someone actually knows 6.2's inside and out they would never say they are boat anchors. I have a 6.2 my dad has had em, my uncle has had em. No problems ever. There are thousands of people who love and cherish 6.2's and "know" that they are NOT boat anchors. The only reason someone call one that is because either they are confusing it with the 5.7 or they mistreated the 6.2's VERY badly, which the military didnt do. I could call a 350 a boat anchor if all the ones I've had died, but I didnt put oil in it, that doesnt mean that 350's are boat anchors though. Get my drift. Sorry if that sounded harsh or anything. I just cant stand people calling things names that they clearly are not.

[wancosc356]

Oh....I "got" my truck. Its a 1967 Chevy short bed step side 2wd. Its got a I6 with a 4 speed I believe. Starts and drives but not too well. Its a little rough, but I think she has a lot of potential. I would post pics but I don't have her yet. The guy I got it from is gonna deliver it on Wednesday. I can't wait.

[texanidiot25]

Experience > Opinion.

Read how he mentions that he's going on the Military version, not the civilian engine. Pipe down amigo.