Budget disc brake conversion

[panhead57]

I'm looking to convert the fron't brakes on my 69, GMC 2500. Can any body tell me exactly what parts I need to get and if I can find them on another truck at the pick a part or what???
P.S. when I say budget I mean like under 200 dollars in my pocket right now.

[N2TRUX]

Can we assume that you want to stay with 8 lug? Besides an economical conversion, what are your goals?

[project 67 sub]

you could always get the whole front suspension setup from a 73-87 c20-30

[LONGHAIR]

I agree with project 67 sub, do some junk-yardin' for a total front suspension from a later model truck or 'burb. You may still need to deal with the brakes themselves as far as pads and rotors, but it is the simplest way. The entire crossmember is a bolt in situation and then you don't have any "adapting" going on. Every part is from the same year truck and that simplifies later maintenance.

[fixit-p]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I agree with project 67 sub, do some junk-yardin' for a total front suspension from a later model truck or 'burb. You may still need to deal with the brakes themselves as far as pads and rotors, but it is the simplest way. The entire crossmember is a bolt in situation and then you don't have any "adapting" going on. Every part is from the same year truck and that simplifies later maintenance.

Would he need to change the xmember or could he get away with changing the upper and lower control arms and all related parts or is the xmember physically different?

[LilTruckMan'69]

Originally Posted by project 67 sub

you could always get the whole front suspension setup from a 73-87 c20-30

73-87??????

I am new to all of this so correct me if I'm wrong.

Isn't 71-72 front disc w/ x-member our only option for full front end unbolt/pull/rebolt??

I also have a 69' c20, and wish to keep 8 lug. A friend has a 76-78 (he wasn't sure exact year) 3/4T 2wd front end I can get from him. Is this front also a full x-member swap for disc brakes??

If not, what is usable and what needs to be done to swap it in?

[joe231]

I have heard the holes in the cross member won't line up with the newer style cups that hold the lower arm on...although I don't have specific experience with it....yet

[panhead57]

I'm pretty sure I'm going to stick with the 8 lug but I eventually want to lower the front end with the use of drop spindles and possably al light set of bags when I'm able to afford it. I really want to see If I can do this conversion with out to much modification. I'd like to be able to get it working properly in a few hours.

[fixit-p]

I think project 67 has the right idea get the complete front end hub to hub if I read pick your parts price list correctly they have drum to drum listed at $159.99 plus $20 core.. best part is they are having a half price sale this weekend I'm hitting them up for c10 front end (can't beat the price if it's right)

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by panhead57

I'm pretty sure I'm going to stick with the 8 lug but I eventually want to lower the front end with the use of drop spindles and possably al light set of bags when I'm able to afford it......

Before you make you final decision, research your options for 8 lug lowering components. Right now the options are very limited.

[joe231]

1/2 ton and 3/4 ton 73-87 pickups, 73-91 burbs and crew cabs cross members will bolt in...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by joe231

1/2 ton and 3/4 ton 73-87 pickups, 73-91 burbs and crew cabs cross members will bolt in...

Correct...2wd only.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Correct...2wd only.

yeah cause 4wd's don't have cross members

[LilTruckMan'69]

Ok, this is GREAT news. What's the catch??

Nothing I do is ever this simple so there has to be more to it than this.

No other parts or anything else needed??

A brake line or two would be expected.

Would the 76-78 master cylinder / booster be a required swap?? OR possible bolt in upgrade??

Ok, hope I'm not hi-jacking here. I think me and original poster or on same page so I'd like to think I'm helping

Thanks already for all the good info.

And thanks to the original poster for starting this thread.

[joe231]

here is a thread specific to the 60-66 frames, but the 67-70 frames are nearly identical...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=disc+brake

[70rs/ss]

It is easier than a whole crossmember swap. The upper A-arm and ball joint are the same 1/2 or 3/4 and disk or drum, so you really only need the spindle and rotor, calipers and the spindles should bolt up to the A-arms, maybe new balljoints since you are taking it apart anyways, but yeah that simple and if you watch the board, most guys swap 8-lug for 5 or 6-lug and toss the 8-lug stuff, so free is possible!?

[Steve-W]

any updates on this topic?

[LostMy65]

I've been reading, and searching.
Yes, there are many threads on this subject.

My question is specific to a 66 2WD 3/4 Ton and using a 73-87 3/4 Ton doner.
I've read differing answers regarding how the 3/4 Ton swaps.

Do I just unbolt everything and move it over to the 66 Frame?

[Clyde65]

My experience has been for the 63-66 swaps to 71-72 and also 73-87 1/2 ton, however the 3/4 will be the same.

I would get the upper and lower a-arms ( rebuildable shafts, opp to paint/clean), the spindles and rotors and calipers from the donor

replace the worn parts as needed and bolt them up to your 63-66.

If you swap the whole crossmember, you will have to enlarge a couple holes and if memory serves, the 63-66 have 12 bolts and the 73-87 have 14 for mounting the cross member.

If I am mistaken on the last someone please correct me but I think that is right.

[raycow]

One other issue with a 73-up crossmember swap is that the engine mounts are different. This isn't necessarily bad if you want the later type mounts, but it's just something else to keep in mind.

When I swapped 73-up control arms and shafts to get the rubber bushings I had to enlarge the holes for the U-bolts. This was on a 1/2 ton, so I don't know if it is necessary on the 3/4 ton too.

Ray

[LostMy65]

This had some interesting reading:
http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...t.htm#testprop

[jimmydean]

I found a whole crossmember on Craigs List for $100 for a 1/2 ton. I decided there wasn't enough options for the 3/4 ton, so I am converting the whole thing over to 1/2.

There is a little bit of work, but it's a pretty clean swap. Pull a junk unit, rebuild it while it's out, then slide it in. You will have to support the motor somehow if it isn't pulled to get it in/out.

[peglegs]

joe 231 i have a 67 with p/s you say the swap is nearly identical (comment # 15 ) for the 67.....what are the problems and will reconnecting my p/s bring any addtional problems & what has to be done with my motor mounts to fit thanks

[joe231]

I'm not familiar with the '67 power steering gear box.
You should be able to keep your inner tie rods and center link and just swap outer tie rods to fit the newer spindles.....but I'm not 100% sure
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[peglegs]

thank you joe but its beginning to look like the 67 , w/ps , has a few unsolved areas with most of these disc brake swaps i guess and justly so as many different years come into play sounds like the weekend warrior should be looking at a bolt on kit for the 67's and its just not any fun that way lol, thanks again