Lift Question #3,278

[special-K]

I can`t keep some things straight in my mind to save my sole.I have a`91 Suburban w/4" Tuff Country springs.It needs a motor and the body is 1/2 rough.I liked it ok when it ran,but looking at it sitting there I`m not motivated (gotta be picky where my money goes these days) to get into it.I could buy another one with a nice body and running motor for what the bodywork would run me.I could just swap all the lift stuff over and instant cool Suburban.And,it`s got the 4L80E w/stand-alone computer.That`s what I`d really like to do,but I haven`t had the money to pick up another Suburban.
I have my`72 K2500 that needs tires and I want to lift it 4".So,the 35s I have won`t fit until I lift the truck.I keep considering yanking the t-case & trans from the Suburban,along with the springs,axles,and hydro-boost system(doors/tilt...),and scraping it.

My question is...If I use those springs on my`72 I know both the front and rear are longer.The rears are 56".In the rear I`d need to relocate both the front & rear spring hangers to stay centered,right?So,how much more will the truck be lifted over the 4"?Will it be a noticable difference?The rear wouldn`t affect it because the frame is straight there.The ront continues down,but moving 2" forward doesn`t bring it that much lower and being only one end of the spring the lift will be 1/2 the total difference,right? The same on the front.By the time I move the rear mount it will only raise the truck 1/2 the amount of the lower mounting point.So,I`m thinking I may have just a healthy 4" lift.The high side of 4",more like 5".Am I right?I`m asking because I really don`t want it to big to still mount 285/75s or 255/85 tall skinnies.Or,even 12.50/33s without getting too lanky.My other truck will be about 7"...6" springs w/zero-rates...and will run 35s as well as an occassional 37.I want interchangability between the trucks.Yet,run a bit larger on the second(shortbed K/30)/more travel room and run a bit smaller on the first(K2500)/more travel room with under 35s/healthy stocker look when I want(and/or can`t afford big rubber).

If the `72 will come out around 6" lifted I`d just as well take the 6" front springs I already have,get rear springs,leave the Suburban alone until I can get another w/good body & running,and just get other springs for the shortbed when I get there.If I do part out the Suburban I`ll probably swap the whole running gear:4.10 axles,4L80E,NP241,hydro-boost.It`s the semi-floating 14-bolt w/Gov-Loc and I have another 4.10 14-bolt full-floater for spare as needed.The`72 has:3.54 axles,TH350,NP205,vacuum-assist.I`m just thinking I like the 4.10 w/overdrive and 3.54s may not pack enough power for hauling in o/d with the 35s.

[Chevy1TonFun]

Sounds like a lot of work for a 4in lift kit.

[Eturnit3]

My question is...If I use those springs on my`72 I know both the front and rear are longer.The rears are 56".In the rear I`d need to relocate both the front & rear spring hangers to stay centered,right?

where would this put the wheel as far as center of wheelwell?

[Eturnit3]

Originally Posted by Eturnit3

where would this put the wheel as far as center of wheelwell?

Sorry just reread after some coffee and Im an idiot...

[special-K]

It`s not much work to save the cost of EZ-Ride springs,braided brake hoses,and 9000RSXs.I use anti-seize.
All the trans & rear work would be optional.

It`s also about fix or part-out the Suburban.I`m tired of looking at it as it is.

[Mike C]

This is one of those "if you have to ask questions".

The front I wouldn't even think about. The rear might not be too bad. Chances are the leaf pin is not centered. You need to measure from the front spring eye to the pin on both trucks and figure what you have. IMO, the rear needs to move back relative to stock anyhow. The drawback to this is you will most likely need a longer driveshaft. But if your 72 is a 1/2 ton, the longer housing of one of the 14's might take care of the driveshaft problem!

I had to move my SF 14 back in the Jimmy because my aftermarket shaft was too long with it centered on the perch. I re-drilled the perch moving the axle back about 3/4" which has the added benefit of centering the axle in the wheel well. I have also trimmed a 1/2" piece of sheet metal "pie" about 4 inches long out of my wheel well getting rid of the "hook" at the front.

[special-K]

Thanks for all the help,Mike.Who knows what I`ll do.I`m thinking different already...
I want to leave the Suburban be and,hopefully,get it back in shape.That thing was just so ideal for me.I really liked it.It just needs a motor and could use body work to be nice.
I think I`ll use the 6" front springs I have on the`72 K2500 and end up putting the 4.10 k/30 axles in.That will be my beefy 1t workhouse.I`ll just buy the rest of the stuff I need.
I think I`ll use 4" springs on the`71 shortbed and end up putting the 3.54 K2500 axles in from the`72.I don`t think I`ll build it into a trail rig and have it more for getting away with some off road.