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06-09-2009, 12:28 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Corbin, Ky
Posts: 21
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Frame
What is the best way to paint a frame so it will hold up and not chip off. And what would be the best paint and non expensive? Thanks
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06-09-2009, 01:12 AM | #2 |
resident oilfield trash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lubbock TX
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Re: Frame
Powder coating is the best way to go
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1967 SWB C10 396/400 factory air factory tach (sadly had to send to a new home) 1986 Honda 70 Fourtrax 1991 Chevrolet K5 blazer 2wd 1982 Mastercraft Pro Star 190 Stars and Stripes 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 2011 Nissan Armada |
06-09-2009, 05:36 AM | #3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Frame
POR is a bit better than powedercoat as far as chip resistance and when it comes to rust prevention, POR hands down.
Neither powercoating nor POR is cheap though. |
06-09-2009, 04:08 PM | #4 |
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Location: Corbin, Ky
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Re: Frame
I went to my local paint store today and they had a product called chassis saver that you could either brush or spray on. Has anyone heard of it?
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06-09-2009, 06:44 PM | #5 |
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Re: Frame
Anyone ever try KBS rust seal? Says on they're website its better than POR 15. Of course that is THEIR website. I'm just wondering if its any good
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1978 Chevrolet Silverado 3/4 ton 400 small block. 2000 F-250 Powerstroke 2002 GMC Yukon Denali XL |
06-09-2009, 09:25 PM | #6 |
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Location: Strathroy, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Frame
I got POR15 on my frame and I love it, its a great product, would recomend it to anyone doin a restoration
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06-09-2009, 11:24 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Frame
i agree 100% J
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06-09-2009, 11:28 PM | #8 |
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Location: Connecticut
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Re: Frame
POR 15 over blasted metal is hard to beat.
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"I'll Procrastinate Tomorrow" quote by LEEVON 71 K10 long fleet (sons truck) new 370hp 355, sm465 np205, 3.73's 33's 70 K20 long fleet 98 G3500 work van |
06-10-2009, 02:00 PM | #9 |
resident oilfield trash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lubbock TX
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Re: Frame
WOW I feel behind what is POR
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1967 SWB C10 396/400 factory air factory tach (sadly had to send to a new home) 1986 Honda 70 Fourtrax 1991 Chevrolet K5 blazer 2wd 1982 Mastercraft Pro Star 190 Stars and Stripes 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 2011 Nissan Armada |
06-10-2009, 03:57 PM | #10 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Frame
you could try www.por15.com
or a google on it... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...POR+15&aqi=g10 |
06-10-2009, 06:45 PM | #11 |
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Re: Frame
I had mine powdercoated 15 years ago and not one chip.
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06-10-2009, 07:13 PM | #12 |
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Location: Graham, NC
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Re: Frame
Can anyone give a round about figure on how much POR it would take to do a SWB frame, front and rear suspension including rear end?
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06-10-2009, 07:53 PM | #13 |
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Re: Frame
It would probably depend on whether you spray or brush, you lose product when spraying. I think you may be able to get by with a gallon or so if you brush it on, but I would buy it in small containers unless you plan on having a commercial blaster do the prep and paint it all immediately as it will harden in an opened container if used a bit at a time. Although I have read it can be refrigerated to reduce this.
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"I'll Procrastinate Tomorrow" quote by LEEVON 71 K10 long fleet (sons truck) new 370hp 355, sm465 np205, 3.73's 33's 70 K20 long fleet 98 G3500 work van |
06-10-2009, 07:50 PM | #14 |
wanna be 67
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 696
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Re: Frame
doing this right now...I have used almost 3/4 of a gallon so far and always seems to be more that you want to spray...I say about a gallon, to be safe and to have some left over. I also put three to four coats on too. Rob
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06-10-2009, 08:02 PM | #15 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Re: Frame
how many miles have you driven it?
What kind of driving has it gotten? Look on the rear half of the frame on any big rig. If the truck is over 2 years old, you'll see much of the powder is missing, replaced with a thick layer of rust. Powdercoat is great stuff, but I wouldn't do the frame of anything that is intended for normal street use. with a brush, I would say a lot less than a gallon. I did everything from the cab to the end of the frame on my longhorn... springs, frame, and big ass eaton rear end with about a quart. Before; spent about an hr with the scraper getting the chunks of crap and grease off... then an hr or so with the steam cleaner, let it dry, and went to town painting my arms black with POR... After; this was done in march of 06 if memory serves, and it still looks awesome. Last edited by Longhorn Man; 06-10-2009 at 08:48 PM. |
06-15-2009, 01:41 PM | #16 |
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Re: Frame
Well the big brown delivery wagon just stopped by today and brought me a present. KBS frame coater kit. Reviews I've ready say people like it better than POR. I've never used either before so I thought I'd give it a try. $55 plus shipping and their customer service says it will do the whole chassis of my shortbed.
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1978 Chevrolet Silverado 3/4 ton 400 small block. 2000 F-250 Powerstroke 2002 GMC Yukon Denali XL |
06-15-2009, 03:45 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Frame
Quote:
Thanks!
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
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06-15-2009, 05:48 PM | #18 |
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aloha, OR
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Re: Frame
POR15 is awesome!
Also, Sherwin Williams has a paint called Machine Enamel and is $15 a gallon. After having my frame (of another project) blasted, I sprayed it and it has held up amazingly well over the last four years. Mind you, it probably isn't nearly as tough as POR15, but significantly cheaper. Also, I believe POR15 should be applied to rough surfaces for good bonding, whereas the machine enamel should most likely be applied to a more smooth surface. |
06-15-2009, 06:09 PM | #19 | |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Re: Frame
Quote:
nothing special on how to use it, point the wand and pull the trigger. Once it's oil/grease free... move on to the next area. |
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06-15-2009, 01:53 PM | #20 |
Tot Roddin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 24,461
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Re: Frame
Keep us posted on how the frame turns out. I see a FAQ coming soon.
Take plenty of pictures and walk us through the process.
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-Nate 1969 CST SWB - Project Blank Slate (4.5/6" ECE Static Drop, 6-lug disc brake upgrade (manual), Billet Specialties Vintec 20x8.5 255/40 (F) 20x10 295/40 (R), 250 I-6) 1960 AMF Skylark - Tot Roddin' (Lowered with custom frame; soon to include custom push bar and interior) 2008 Silverado CrewCab 1LT (5.3L, 3:73, 4x4, LT1, Z-71, Towing Package) |
06-15-2009, 03:22 PM | #21 |
Loving the Jimmster
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Emmett, idaho
Posts: 575
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Re: Frame
I just did the front of my frame with PMI and i am very pleased!!!
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06-16-2009, 08:59 AM | #22 |
Hey ya'll, Watch this!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 117
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Re: Frame
I used POR on my frame. If I had to do it over again I would probably use Eastwood's Chassis Black. Just a personal preference. I have not had a problem with either product.
I like the look of the Eastwood paint better because it is not as glossy. I think it cost less also. The Eastwood paint is probably not as durable as the POR (or powder coating) but then the environment is not really extreme here in North Alabama. I blasted my frame, applied Metal Prep, and then POR-15 using a foam brush over clean metal. A gentleman nearby had done the same and the results are incredible though using a brush was rather time consuming. And you absolutely MUST wear a minimum of a mask with a cartridge filter or you will get the worst headache of your life from the fumes. Warning: If you do use POR-15, do not leave it out in the sun for an extended period of time. The color will fade and become chalky. Shouldn't be a problem once you have the body back on the frame though. I have painted quite a few pieces (diff, springs, spindles, trans x-member, brackets, etc) with Eastwood's Chassis Black. They have all turned out very nicely. I have been using a detail gun from HF that was only $10. It always provides a nice finish. Cleanup is much easier also. Good luck with whatever you choose.
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06-17-2009, 10:17 AM | #23 | |
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Re: Frame
Quote:
Also, could someone comment on the merits of spraying versus using a brush or sponge brush? I have read on here that you need to have excellent breathing protection to spray POR-15, like a fresh-air system because the fumes are so bad. Does brushing lose you anything other than looks?
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
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06-17-2009, 04:07 PM | #24 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Re: Frame
if you brush it properly then you won't even lose the looks.
The only real advatage to spraying it, is time saved. |
06-17-2009, 05:02 PM | #25 |
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Re: Frame
Thanks for all the great advice! Hotrod, I am sorry about hogging your thread...
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
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