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Old 06-15-2009, 11:59 AM   #1
Bigblue29
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235 Valve adjustment snowballs to swap

Hey guys.

I have been tinkering with my '50 3100. I had a bad water pump that I just replaced. I thought it was the cause of ticking noise. Well with the new pump installed, it was sort of. The fan was tweaked and hitting on the crank pully and the WP housing.



The ticking I hear now is slight, but still noticeable. I am thinking its the valves that need adjustment. I have a couple of buddies that are willing to help me do it- but I was hoping someone could walk me through how its done...
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Old 06-15-2009, 07:23 PM   #2
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Might try the stovebolt.com site, they probably have a FAQ for it. I can't remember its been over 25 years since I did it, can't even remember if it had hydralic lifters or old solids that ran some clearance!
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:10 PM   #3
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Try to adjust them as best you can but you may never get rid of theticking. If the rocker and the shaft are worn then its almost impossible to get it completely quiet. Stovebolt as mentioned above will be the place for tips and tricks to get it quieter.
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:29 PM   #4
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

yep i adjusted mine in my 53 and there is still a slight clicking from them. old pushrods aren't quiet hehe.

it is pretty simple to do. remove the valve cover first.
you will need a meaty flat head screwdriver and the box end of a wrench and a set of feeler gauges.

it would be handy to have a friend there with you for this next part.

try to move the rocker arms of all the valves. if you can rock them a teeny bit with your hand the valve is closed. only adjust valves that are closed.

loosen the lock nut on top of the rocker arm and adjust the screw with the flat head using the feeler gauge between the valve stem and the rocker arm. intake valves should be about .008" and exhaust valves should be about .015". tighten down the lock nut when you have it at the right spot. have your friend tighten it down while you hold the flathead to keep it from changing adjustment when you tighten it down.

keep track of which valves you have already adjusted.

have your friend hop in the truck and turn the engine over a little bit to get some of the other valves to close. repeat adjustment process till all valves are adjusted. make sure your gasket on the valve cover is in good shape. if not, replace the gasket.

if you have any questions just post em up! good luck.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:34 PM   #5
Fred T
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Here's the link. http://www.stovebolt.com/faq.html#valves

Looks like you have a 235, which probably has mechanical (solid) lifters. The click never goes away completely, but the valves do need regular adjustment, just like the brakes.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:27 PM   #6
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Thanks for the info guys! Not only is looking at all your cool trucks awesome, but the help found here is priceless!

I appreciate it.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:23 AM   #7
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Thought I would chime in and let you guys know what I found! My buddy came over last night and we warmed up the truck to 180. Popped the hood, pulled the valve covers, and the plugs. From there we could not get the crank to turn the motor over by hand to get the #1 cylinder to TDC. So we bumped the starter until it was in position.

To make a long story short, we managed to adjust the #1 and #2 before we found a bent rod So, we checked the rest of them and found 2 more bent rods. Funny how small projects always seem to grow. I called the parts shop and I should be getting my set of new ones this afternoon if I am lucky.

Anyone have any ideas why we couldnt get the crank to turn? the truck was in neutral, park brake on, plugs pulled? could not even push it by hand while in gear w/ brake off to get the crank to move... but the starter would do it?! I'm a little puzzled.
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Old 06-18-2009, 12:15 PM   #8
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Park brake off, in gear, plugs out, and it wont push? i am puzzled with you.

i did mine by bumping the starter as well. sucks about your bent rods though. i got lucky and mine were straight.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:03 PM   #9
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

back when i had the 235 in the 53 i installed hydraulic lifters in the engine so i wouldn't have to adjust the lifters. it actually worked, unless you let the truck sit for long. Since the engine doesn't send a lot of oil there the lifters would run out and the clatter would be loud. if you could figure a way to get more oil there it might actually work!!!
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Old 06-18-2009, 06:24 PM   #10
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Bent rod = bent crank too??? An old hot rod trick was to get V8 aluminum pistons because you could get a little more power and rpm for better crusing speed. Can't remember if you had to change out the rods too. I have a 58 235 sitting out in the recycle pile in case you need any parts, it was running when taken out in 85 but was loosing oil pressure so I swapped in a sbc. I believe its an original engine with about 150K on it. I've tried selling it and decided to scrap it this year, tired of tripping over it.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:37 AM   #11
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

I talked to the guys at my local engine shop. They are pretty sure the crank is ok. Just poorly adjusted valves by who ever did it last.?! Anyways, my new rods wont be available until monday. Bummer too cause there is a local car show this weekend, not to mention the Huge MSRA back to the 50's show Next year it will surely be ready.
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:29 AM   #12
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigblue29 View Post
I talked to the guys at my local engine shop. They are pretty sure the crank is ok. Just poorly adjusted valves by who ever did it last.?! Anyways, my new rods wont be available until monday. Bummer too cause there is a local car show this weekend, not to mention the Huge MSRA back to the 50's show Next year it will surely be ready.
OK, I'm a little confused, are you talking about connecting rods or pushrods. when you said you were adjusting valves and found bent "rods" I thought you meant pusrods. Then, later on, I thought you were talking about connecting rods.

someone please explain!!!!
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Old 06-19-2009, 01:41 PM   #13
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Me too, usually the valve bends and piston gets beat up before the piston rod bends unless the valves get broken off in the cylinder.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:12 PM   #14
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

I didnt mean to be confusing. I was still talking about bent push rods. My local engine shop was the only people I could find that could order the push rods and get them in a reasonable amount of time.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:45 AM   #15
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Well I have been fighting with my 235 and so far the truck is winning. Got the new pushrods installed and adjusted. But after some careful investigating I have discovered that I have a blown head gasket between cylinders 4 and 5. So now it goes back into the garage for more work...
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:47 PM   #16
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

aww bummer.
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:26 PM   #17
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

I think I am going insane. There is some blow by in the cylinders and the motor is going to have to be re-built. The head was also cracked. WTF. I cant see dropping $4k to rebuild this 235 straight 6.

Anyone have any ideas on a cost effective v8 swap that doesnt involve a subframe swap?
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:54 PM   #18
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Dropping a SBC is about the easiest thing imaginable using popular available mounts, e.g:

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=ECM4759

and the matching tranny mount:

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=TCM4759

But it then all boils down to how cheaply you can find a SBC with a 700R4 (or a TH350) where you are and a suitable rearend assuming you're still running around with a torque tube.

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Old 10-11-2009, 11:19 PM   #19
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Well thought I would update with some progress. I've found another 235 and I dont have far to go to pick it up. Its only about an hour and a half south of me. I'll have it next saturday and if all goes well. I also have the old motor pulled and I am working on cleaning and repainting the engine bay.

We removed the hood and left the radiator shroud when my brother and I pulled it out. It was a squeeze to get it out while it was in the garage. We pulled the shroud after we got it out because there is no way we'll be able to put the new motor back in with the head on it!

Its starting to get cold around here again so we try to keep things in the garage while we're working if possible. Sometimes Minnesota weather blows

Here are some pics.




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Old 10-12-2009, 12:17 AM   #20
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

How can I so easily understand going from fixing a ticking water pump to new engine? While on the other hand, my loving wife never can.

Way to keep at it. Just imagine how nice it'll feel when you can finally ride again with no worries.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:06 AM   #21
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Funny how things snow ball. I guess I could have just put it back together, but I can stand it when things dont run right. Good news is I have a brand new water pump for my new engine! lol
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Old 11-23-2009, 01:45 PM   #22
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

I had good weather this weekend and my brother came over to help out. So we got the oil pan cleaned up and gasketed, and then we put the motor into the truck and got it bolted to the trans and motor mounts.

What a great feeling. I know this isnt as hard as some of the work other guys have been doing, but I figured someone may want to see the progress.
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Old 11-23-2009, 02:26 PM   #23
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

Looking good.
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:38 PM   #24
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

very nice indeed! has this 235 you are putting in been rebuilt already?
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:49 PM   #25
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Re: 235 I6 Valve adjustment

I'm not sure but I would say that it hasnt. It was just a good runner from a '61 chevy pickup.
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