Drive Shaft for 700R4 swap - 1 piece or 2 piece? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dual quad · 05-17-2002, 04:57 PM

I'm about to bolt a modified 700R4 in my '72 SWB. I've measured the exiting 350TH vs the 700R4 and will need to shorten my overall drive shaft length by 3". My existing D/S is a split type with hanger bearing.

Should I have the existing primary shaft shortened and keep the 2 piece setup? Or should I have a single shaft made up and remove the hanger bracket?

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'72 SWB Cheyenne, L-31 Vortec 350, 350TH, COMP 260H Roller cam, Edelbrock RPM intake and 1405 carb, 3.73 posi diff.

sam's 72 · 05-17-2002, 05:03 PM

Remove the carrier bearing and go with a one piece drive shaft. It will be less maintance in the long run, those carrier bearings are junk, and you don't get that many miles out of one, plus you only have to deal with two u joints once you change it out to a one piece! my 2 cents worth on this any how
Sam

Low68 · 05-17-2002, 05:31 PM

I have a one piece and have never had any problems with it. It was on the truck when I bought it 2 1/2 years ago.

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http://www.geocities.com/a68rod

Big69C20 Toy · 05-17-2002, 06:22 PM

I talked with a driveshaft guy about having a 1 piece made. He said you need to have a 4" driveshaft made for this sort of length so that it can handle the twist and such. He said i should stick with my 2 piece if/when i convert. The other thing i've heard is that if you have the rear loaded that 1 piece can bump on the upper part of the carrier. Hope you can figure it out. Good luck.

------------------
69 Custom 20, 396BB,Longbed fleetside.
New Oak Bed With SS strips.

Edelbrock performer RPM-O, Edelbrock 750Carb, Headers, HEI, 2 40" glasspacks.
Stereo: Classic-style tape deck/radio, 2 6x9 Cerwin Vega's in doors, 2 10" Neo subs under seats, 1 900 Watt amp.

SN= Ares220 on AIM.

Located in Beautiful Southern Cali or Michigan when i'm at school.

Rabid · 05-17-2002, 07:44 PM

Been there, done both. When I first put in the 700 I opted to swap to a one piece. Damn thing rubbed on the bracket that used to hold the center support bearing. So I removed the bracket and all was cool for a few years. I did notice that I went thru u-joints about 1 or 2 per year though. Something about that angle at the pinion gear and the driveshaft. GM Engineers made it a 2 piece driveshaft for a reason is my opinion. I switched back to a two piece driveshaft and I havnt busted a u-joint since. Plus the onepiece had a vibration at certain speeds. Could have been a poorly balanced driveshaft, who knows. All I know is the two piece worked better for me in the long run.

------------------
72 C-10 Custom Deluxe
LWB, 2WD, 350
700r4, Holley 600
UNITED STATES ARMY - ALASKA

"Rangers lead the way!, Medics bring them back!"

1-PU70 · 05-17-2002, 11:42 PM

I used the 2 pice when I did my swap. Never had any problems. If its not broke dont fix it.

Cheyenne71 · 05-18-2002, 04:15 AM

I would stick with the 2 piece. You do know you have to move the crossmember back to don't you.

Dual quad · 05-18-2002, 09:32 AM

Thanks for the feedback guys. That's 2 for a one piece and 4 for a two piece. I’m leaning toward the 2 piece since it’s the cheapest and easiest at this point. I’d like to keep the original D/S as is (primary shaft at least) incase I want to go back to the 350TH someday. We’ll, I’m off my old truck parts supplier to see what kind of shaft I can scrounge.

HvyChevy454 · 05-18-2002, 12:24 PM

i've also heard of 1 pieces cuasing vibration and some shops won't do a i piece that long. but if your having any kind of high torque applications id go w/a 1 piece. ive heard that the carrier bearings have been known to rip off. Ive gone through to bearings in 3 yrs w/ my setup. soon as i get soem money im going to a 1 piece.

------------------
Lutz, Fl
My Team Website
The Heavy Chevy Website
------------------

72 Cheyenne 10 LWB GM 12-bolt 3.08 w/ Auburn Posi
91 454 Edel Intake 850 cfm carb Comp Cam 268/.500 Hedman Headers Dual 3'' Exhaust
71 Cheyenne 20 4x4 Fact. A/C PS PB Tilt Currently in the works...
Put it to the floor...

Project1970 · 05-18-2002, 02:18 PM

I've had a one-piece in my '70 ever since I had a TH400 installed, zero problems whatsoever. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work if installed correctly...

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Project 1970 - soon to be seen at http://milhouse.treylis.org:81/

Dual quad · 05-18-2002, 06:12 PM

OK, I found a primary shaft from a long box truck. I need to shorten it 3" for the 700R4 (350TH was 6" tail) and ??" for the change for long to short box.

What is the D/S length difference from long to short box? The wheel base difference is 12" while the box length difference is 18".

Chevyman69 · 05-18-2002, 08:57 PM

Well the way I see it the 402/T400 parts truck had a one peice shaft in it from the factory( its a long box). And for the record all 88 up lwb 2 wheel drives have a one piece shaft. If someone can't build a driveshaft for one of these older trucks for a 700R4, find a better driveshaft builder. The rearend can be shimmed for pinion angle if need be and the carrier bearing support removed, hell I might throw on the crossmember out of that factory one piece truck, then there is no holes for the support. 2 pieces are just asking for trouble, 2 more sets of U joints and a failure prone bearing. Get a reputable shop to build a one piece shaft.

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69 CST 10, 402, steel crank, heavy rods, Federal Mogul Forged Pistons, 9.9:1 compression, polished ported 781 heads 2.19/1.88 manley stainless valves, Crane Powermax Hydraulic roller 288/296 and .587,.610 lift, hardened pushrods, Crane Roller Rockers, Weiand Action Plus, 750CFM Rochester QJET, MSD HEI, MSD 8MM Wires, Dynomax Ceramic coated headers, should be about 500 H.P. 700R4 2500 stall, pretty nasty shift kit, 373 Auburn Pro Series Posi, buckets/console air/tilt/tach 4wheel discs

Daily Driver: 92 Chev Reg Cab LWB Silverado 4x4, loaded, 350 Accel filter/cap/rotor/coil/AC Delco wires/AC Delco RapidFire plugs, Edelbrock intake and headers, 180 degree thermostat, Hypertech Thermomaster Chip, true duals 700R4 with B@M Shift Kit for now!

Littles72 · 05-18-2002, 09:13 PM

One piece here when I went to a 700. No vibrations and I commute about 400mi a week from freeway to rural roads. Mine is all new, balanced, new yoke, and u joints for 180.00. Im glad i went that route. Oh and mine does not rub but I don't have a carrier bearing bracket either.

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1972 short fleet and soon interchangable short stepside beds 2wd with 68 front clip
350/700r4/3.73s 15x8 Truck rallys with 235/275 60s
Orange and Black soon to be all Orange

Longhorn Man · 05-18-2002, 09:32 PM

On these responses, y'all need to remember he has a SHORT wheel base. Some of these came stock with a 1 pc shaft.
I say go for it, do the one pc deal...just do it right.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
E-mail longhornmail@yahoo.com
My name is Andy...not Randy...I'm in Ohio...Not Illinois...close enough?
Columbus Ohio

Andy4639 · 05-18-2002, 11:11 PM

I agree with longhornmail, what ever you do, if you do it right then you shouldn't have any problems. One or two either way is right, if you just take your time and check everything good before you put it back on the road.I installed the 700-R4 and had it cut and I kept the two peice and carrier bearing and had it all rebuilt with new bearings,u-joints and have over 100,000 on it and have never even thought about it. I keep it greased and I check the bolts when ever I change the oil.

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Andy
71's Are for ever!!! or 67,68,69,70,72
71,factory tach,tilt for straight drive,gauges,ac,speed warning,clock,305 HO TPI with 700-R4, lowered 2" & 3" ,and 17" Chrome Stealth wheels, Pioneer reciever,100 watt amp, 6 disc changer, 2-10" subs (behind seat) 2-6x9 in doors, 2-3ways mounted under seat, and 2 tweaters on door panels

<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/chevy71tpi/main[/URL" TARGET=_blank>

[URL=http://www.picturetrail.com/Andy4639</A>

[This message has been edited by Andy4639 (edited May 18, 2002).]

*Fast68Chevy* · 05-18-2002, 11:19 PM

and also keep in mind that no 67-72 ever came with a tranny as long as the 700r4/6" tail th350

putting in longer tranny and cutting out 3" of shaft will also change driveline angle too

and 77-78" long shafts were installed factory in the 73-up trucks with auto tranny(6" tail th350)

there is a limit to length that can be used depending on tube diameter, doesnt mean that you cannot use a factory original 70"-some long shaft

i tihnk a two piece in a swb no matter the tranny length is overkill, doesnt make sense, that sahft is gonna be DAMN short in a SWB truck with 3" loger tranny like that...

good luck

------------------
Randy- Lincoln, IL
randy@ccaonline.com 2177353230
*many GM parts bought, traded, or sold -am parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme and 84 SE Firebird T5 3.73

current fleet: -71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07- assembling currently
-90 Cavalier/2.2/sky blue, driver #2
-84 Z28 5.0L/700R4/3.73 daily driver #1
-'90 Corsica 3.1L and '82 purple Trans Am- storing *Paint is overrated* © RSS Enterprises 2000

05-17-2002, 05:31 PM	#3
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	I have a one piece and have never had any problems with it. It was on the truck when I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. ------------------ http://www.geocities.com/a68rod __________________ Build Thread

05-17-2002, 06:22 PM	#4
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	I talked with a driveshaft guy about having a 1 piece made. He said you need to have a 4" driveshaft made for this sort of length so that it can handle the twist and such. He said i should stick with my 2 piece if/when i convert. The other thing i've heard is that if you have the rear loaded that 1 piece can bump on the upper part of the carrier. Hope you can figure it out. Good luck. ------------------ 69 Custom 20, 396BB,Longbed fleetside. New Oak Bed With SS strips. Edelbrock performer RPM-O, Edelbrock 750Carb, Headers, HEI, 2 40" glasspacks. Stereo: Classic-style tape deck/radio, 2 6x9 Cerwin Vega's in doors, 2 10" Neo subs under seats, 1 900 Watt amp. SN= Ares220 on AIM. Located in Beautiful Southern Cali or Michigan when i'm at school. __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

05-17-2002, 11:42 PM	#6
1-PU70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 1,036	I used the 2 pice when I did my swap. Never had any problems. If its not broke dont fix it. __________________ 1970 CST/10 402,700R4,3:73 posi,AC,PS,PB,TLT,PW,Buckets with heaters

05-18-2002, 12:24 PM	#9
HvyChevy454 Slowly getting CRSS... Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Lutz, Florida Posts: 656	i've also heard of 1 pieces cuasing vibration and some shops won't do a i piece that long. but if your having any kind of high torque applications id go w/a 1 piece. ive heard that the carrier bearings have been known to rip off. Ive gone through to bearings in 3 yrs w/ my setup. soon as i get soem money im going to a 1 piece. ------------------ Lutz, Fl My Team Website The Heavy Chevy Website ------------------ 72 Cheyenne 10 LWB GM 12-bolt 3.08 w/ Auburn Posi 91 454 Edel Intake 850 cfm carb Comp Cam 268/.500 Hedman Headers Dual 3'' Exhaust 71 Cheyenne 20 4x4 Fact. A/C PS PB Tilt Currently in the works... Put it to the floor... __________________ -Nic Lutz, Fl My Team Website The Heavy Chevy Website ------------------ 72 Cheyenne 10 LWB GM 12-bolt 3.08 w/ Auburn Posi 91 454 Edel Performer RPM Intake 750 cfm carb Comp Cam 268/.495 Hedman Headers Dual 3'' Exhaust 71 Cheyenne 20 4x4 Fact. A/C PS PB Tilt Currently in the works... Speak Softly and Carry A Big Block... There is No replacement for Displacement... "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti

05-18-2002, 02:18 PM	#10
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I've had a one-piece in my '70 ever since I had a TH400 installed, zero problems whatsoever. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work if installed correctly... ------------------ Project 1970 - soon to be seen at http://milhouse.treylis.org:81/ __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

05-17-2002, 04:57 PM	#1
Dual quad Smell that burnin' rubber Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Ontario Posts: 171	Drive Shaft for 700R4 swap - 1 piece or 2 piece? I'm about to bolt a modified 700R4 in my '72 SWB. I've measured the exiting 350TH vs the 700R4 and will need to shorten my overall drive shaft length by 3". My existing D/S is a split type with hanger bearing. Should I have the existing primary shaft shortened and keep the 2 piece setup? Or should I have a single shaft made up and remove the hanger bracket? ------------------ '72 SWB Cheyenne, L-31 Vortec 350, 350TH, COMP 260H Roller cam, Edelbrock RPM intake and 1405 carb, 3.73 posi diff.

05-17-2002, 05:03 PM	#2
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	Remove the carrier bearing and go with a one piece drive shaft. It will be less maintance in the long run, those carrier bearings are junk, and you don't get that many miles out of one, plus you only have to deal with two u joints once you change it out to a one piece! my 2 cents worth on this any how Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

05-17-2002, 07:44 PM	#5
Rabid Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI Posts: 1,237	Been there, done both. When I first put in the 700 I opted to swap to a one piece. Damn thing rubbed on the bracket that used to hold the center support bearing. So I removed the bracket and all was cool for a few years. I did notice that I went thru u-joints about 1 or 2 per year though. Something about that angle at the pinion gear and the driveshaft. GM Engineers made it a 2 piece driveshaft for a reason is my opinion. I switched back to a two piece driveshaft and I havnt busted a u-joint since. Plus the onepiece had a vibration at certain speeds. Could have been a poorly balanced driveshaft, who knows. All I know is the two piece worked better for me in the long run. ------------------ 72 C-10 Custom Deluxe LWB, 2WD, 350 700r4, Holley 600 UNITED STATES ARMY - ALASKA "Rangers lead the way!, Medics bring them back!"

05-18-2002, 04:15 AM	#7
Cheyenne71 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Spokane WA. Posts: 34	I would stick with the 2 piece. You do know you have to move the crossmember back to don't you.

05-18-2002, 09:32 AM	#8
Dual quad Smell that burnin' rubber Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Ontario Posts: 171	Thanks for the feedback guys. That's 2 for a one piece and 4 for a two piece. I’m leaning toward the 2 piece since it’s the cheapest and easiest at this point. I’d like to keep the original D/S as is (primary shaft at least) incase I want to go back to the 350TH someday. We’ll, I’m off my old truck parts supplier to see what kind of shaft I can scrounge.

05-18-2002, 06:12 PM	#11
Dual quad Smell that burnin' rubber Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Ontario Posts: 171	OK, I found a primary shaft from a long box truck. I need to shorten it 3" for the 700R4 (350TH was 6" tail) and ??" for the change for long to short box. What is the D/S length difference from long to short box? The wheel base difference is 12" while the box length difference is 18".

05-18-2002, 08:57 PM	#12
Chevyman69 Vortec 350's Suck Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Pickardville Alberta Canada Posts: 544	Well the way I see it the 402/T400 parts truck had a one peice shaft in it from the factory( its a long box). And for the record all 88 up lwb 2 wheel drives have a one piece shaft. If someone can't build a driveshaft for one of these older trucks for a 700R4, find a better driveshaft builder. The rearend can be shimmed for pinion angle if need be and the carrier bearing support removed, hell I might throw on the crossmember out of that factory one piece truck, then there is no holes for the support. 2 pieces are just asking for trouble, 2 more sets of U joints and a failure prone bearing. Get a reputable shop to build a one piece shaft. ------------------ 69 CST 10, 402, steel crank, heavy rods, Federal Mogul Forged Pistons, 9.9:1 compression, polished ported 781 heads 2.19/1.88 manley stainless valves, Crane Powermax Hydraulic roller 288/296 and .587,.610 lift, hardened pushrods, Crane Roller Rockers, Weiand Action Plus, 750CFM Rochester QJET, MSD HEI, MSD 8MM Wires, Dynomax Ceramic coated headers, should be about 500 H.P. 700R4 2500 stall, pretty nasty shift kit, 373 Auburn Pro Series Posi, buckets/console air/tilt/tach 4wheel discs Daily Driver: 92 Chev Reg Cab LWB Silverado 4x4, loaded, 350 Accel filter/cap/rotor/coil/AC Delco wires/AC Delco RapidFire plugs, Edelbrock intake and headers, 180 degree thermostat, Hypertech Thermomaster Chip, true duals 700R4 with B@M Shift Kit for now! __________________ 69 Chev CST 10 reg cab lwb Daily Driver: 92 Chev Reg Cab LWB Silverado 4x4, K.I.A 7:51 AM 04/22/03 Will be resurrected

05-18-2002, 09:13 PM	#13
Littles72 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Pioneer,CA,USA Posts: 61	One piece here when I went to a 700. No vibrations and I commute about 400mi a week from freeway to rural roads. Mine is all new, balanced, new yoke, and u joints for 180.00. Im glad i went that route. Oh and mine does not rub but I don't have a carrier bearing bracket either. ------------------ 1972 short fleet and soon interchangable short stepside beds 2wd with 68 front clip 350/700r4/3.73s 15x8 Truck rallys with 235/275 60s Orange and Black soon to be all Orange __________________ 1972 short fleet and soon interchangable short stepside beds 2wd with 68 front clip 350/700r4/3.73s 15x8 Truck rallys with 235/275 60s Orange and Black soon to be all Orange

05-18-2002, 09:32 PM	#14
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	On these responses, y'all need to remember he has a SHORT wheel base. Some of these came stock with a 1 pc shaft. I say go for it, do the one pc deal...just do it right. ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite. E-mail longhornmail@yahoo.com My name is Andy...not Randy...I'm in Ohio...Not Illinois...close enough? Columbus Ohio

05-18-2002, 11:11 PM	#15
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	I agree with longhornmail, what ever you do, if you do it right then you shouldn't have any problems. One or two either way is right, if you just take your time and check everything good before you put it back on the road.I installed the 700-R4 and had it cut and I kept the two peice and carrier bearing and had it all rebuilt with new bearings,u-joints and have over 100,000 on it and have never even thought about it. I keep it greased and I check the bolts when ever I change the oil. ------------------ Andy 71's Are for ever!!! or 67,68,69,70,72 71,factory tach,tilt for straight drive,gauges,ac,speed warning,clock,305 HO TPI with 700-R4, lowered 2" & 3" ,and 17" Chrome Stealth wheels, Pioneer reciever,100 watt amp, 6 disc changer, 2-10" subs (behind seat) 2-6x9 in doors, 2-3ways mounted under seat, and 2 tweaters on door panels <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/chevy71tpi/main[/URL" TARGET=_blank> [URL=http://www.picturetrail.com/Andy4639</A> [This message has been edited by Andy4639 (edited May 18, 2002).] __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.



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05-18-2002, 11:19 PM	#16
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	and also keep in mind that no 67-72 ever came with a tranny as long as the 700r4/6" tail th350 putting in longer tranny and cutting out 3" of shaft will also change driveline angle too and 77-78" long shafts were installed factory in the 73-up trucks with auto tranny(6" tail th350) there is a limit to length that can be used depending on tube diameter, doesnt mean that you cannot use a factory original 70"-some long shaft i tihnk a two piece in a swb no matter the tranny length is overkill, doesnt make sense, that sahft is gonna be DAMN short in a SWB truck with 3" loger tranny like that... good luck ------------------ Randy- Lincoln, IL randy@ccaonline.com 2177353230 many GM parts bought, traded, or sold -am parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme and 84 SE Firebird T5 3.73 current fleet: -71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07- assembling currently -90 Cavalier/2.2/sky blue, driver #2 -84 Z28 5.0L/700R4/3.73 daily driver #1 -'90 Corsica 3.1L and '82 purple Trans Am- storing Paint is overrated* © RSS Enterprises 2000

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