Fuel regulator mounting

[Inverter]

Wondering if I could mount my regulator as the pics show? Would the hanging weight of the regulator,press.gauge and attached filter/braided lines cause stress on the hard line inlet fittings w/engine vibration causing leaks?
Any advice is appreciated,thank you,~T.

[ulakovic22]

With hard lines and a small regulator I wouldn't think so, but they make regulator mounts that you bolt on using the carb bolts so I don't see why you wouldn't use them.

[Inverter]

Yea, I have the carb mount for the reg.but doesnt workout w/the hard lines.My hard lines were prebent and wont reach the reg. when mounted w/the brackeacket,,,Line came w/the bracket,go figure..I might have to make something.

[fastwillie 696969]

i always put mine lower than the carbs

[Inverter]

Originally Posted by 70blowngmc

i always put mine lower than the carbs

This being my 1st real hot rod,I didnt know where to put it but saw there was these billet brackets that mounted on the carb studs.Im not sure if I even need a regulator but figured it looked cool. Anyway,,the brackets sold do place the reg. right about where my pics show it. Is there a reason for having it below the carb?

[Inverter]

couldnt sleep on it so I came up w/something. Switched to a braided inlet line and used a piece of the original bracket. I feel this will work and the look has better semetry.

[ulakovic22]

Looks nice, you using teflon tape on your threads or something else?

[Inverter]

Thanks,
Some of the AN fittings recommend you not use tape but a liquid thread sealant. I have some Jegs thread sealant in a tube for the final assembly.Ive never used anything but teflon tape before,,not sure if you squirt on the liquid sealer and tighten or use a diff. technique.

[ulakovic22]

Pretty sure it's applied to the threads and then installed. Similar to loctite or antiseize.

[Alex1]

The liquid sealer , put a nice bead all around some of the threads, thread it in and that's it.

[Alex1]

Why the 2" spacer?

[383Ram]

The only thread sealer that should be used is a paste type ( i use a permetex product, 765-1188 i believe is the NAPA number). BUT, the sealer should only be used on pipe thread connections such as those going into the regulator.
DO NOT use it on the flared connections.

The -AN fittings (37 degree flares) as well as SAE (45 degree flares--such as brake lines and such) are meant to seal on the flareing surface only. The threads only make the connection--not the seal. On -AN flared connections---especially with aluminum fittings, a light oil should be used sparingly on the threads to prevent gaulling of the threads.

If i misunderstood what you are using the sealer for, i am sorry. They way i was reading seemed like you were headed in the wrong direction. Just a little FYI, as i have seen sealer used in many places were it should not be used.

[Inverter]

Originally Posted by Alex1

Why the 2" spacer?

It was given to me some time back and I just put it in place.Im not sure what the spacers even do.Im just dry fitting everything while Im waiting to get back my trans. from the shop. Are there any performance gains to be had from a 2"spacer ? What would you sudgest instead?

Originally Posted by 383Ram

The only thread sealer that should be used is a paste type ( i use a permetex product, 765-1188 i believe is the NAPA number). BUT, the sealer should only be used on pipe thread connections such as those going into the regulator.
DO NOT use it on the flared connections.

The -AN fittings (37 degree flares) as well as SAE (45 degree flares--such as brake lines and such) are meant to seal on the flareing surface only. The threads only make the connection--not the seal. On -AN flared connections---especially with aluminum fittings, a light oil should be used sparingly on the threads to prevent gaulling of the threads.

If i misunderstood what you are using the sealer for, i am sorry. They way i was reading seemed like you were headed in the wrong direction. Just a little FYI, as i have seen sealer used in many places were it should not be used.

I was meaning to only use the thread sealant on the npt fittings. I have that one on the bottom of the reg. and 2 more on the fuel pump. I hadnt heard of using an oil on the aluminum threads.I did tear up threads on an aluminum npt fitting trying to dry fit it. Ruined the threads.
What is this oil you sudjest for a/n fitting threads?

[383Ram]

You can use a 10w30 or similar oil, even a little lighter is ok--just something on there. Something that basically wont get in the way but will stick to the surfaces.

Also, make sure you oil the threads of the fitting when assembleing -AN fittings into hoses. Pushloc stuff i just use something real light like WD40. On regular -AN stuff i use some 10w30 in a squirt can i have. It does two things, makes it easier to assemble, and later on if you need to make new hoses, it comes apart alot easier also and doesnt wreck the fittings so they can be reused.

[Inverter]

Great,
I can use tips like these.I was having a hell of a time assembling hoses w/o tearing up the fittings. I will try these things. Thanks for the advice.

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by Alex1

Why the 2" spacer?

It's a phenolic spacer. It's supposed to keep the fuel cool.

[LostMy65]

I was wondering if we could get some more routing options pics.

I found these so far:

[LostMy65]

Here's another:

Originally Posted by 78 Chevyrado

I have an edelbrock 1406 and use this regulator with it
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-803/10002/-1?CT=999

It works perfectly.
Here's how I mounted mine




I put a gauge in the bypass side or you could just plug it.
Don't mind the rubber line from the pump to the regulator. It's worked so far but when I redo the engine soon, it will have a steel line up to about the carb and then turn out and go up to the regulator with some fuel injection hose so i can still mount the filter where it is.

[Captainfab]

I don't have a pic handy, but I can get one for you tomorrow, of a regulator and gauge mounted directly to the inlet of a Edelbrock carb.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't have a pic handy, but I can get one for you tomorrow, of a regulator and gauge mounted directly to the inlet of a Edelbrock carb.

Thanks.

I'll keep an eye out for your post.

[LostMy65]

Found another pic

[LostMy65]

I do like this setup.
(Obviously, I'd only need a single line to carb)

[Captainfab]

Sorry Robert. I did take a couple pics, but I left the dang memory card at the shop when I came home I'll remember tomorrow........

[Marv D]

A couple of thnings,, first those pictures of the regulator mounted on the firewall,, TABOOO, Bad, No No NO!!!
NHRA tech says specifically the the regulator and all connections must be mounted 6" forward of the bellhousing / flywheel. No if, ans, or butts

Also an accumilitive MAXIMUM of 12" of rubber line in the entire fuel system, from tank to carb.

If your never going to the track, this means nothing. HOWEVER... rules are made because someone was hurt or killed. Good enough reason for me to not mount the regulator on the firewall.


And just a quick mention about the spacer,,, A 2" spacer like that is 'properly' used to raise the effective rpm range of the motor. (likewise hurting LOWER RPM torque)

[Captainfab]

Here are the pics of one I did not long ago. I had to make the fitting between the carb and regulator. I made up a short piece of 3/8" line with a double flare on one end and silver soldered it to a drilled out reducer bushing that fit the outlet on the regulator. This was so I could position the regulator where I wanted it while still being able to make a tight connection at the carb. I could not find a fitting like that to buy, so I made it.