Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

69chevy1 · 07-03-2009, 02:46 AM

Hey fellas i have ran into a little problem with my rear set up. I am in the middle of the process of bagging my 66' swb fleetside. I have a kp step notch with a 4" block under my rear end to fill in the gap. I made my own adjustable pan hard bar longer then stock to compensate for the drop but when i lift the truck up my rear end moves almost 6". I made it long so it wouldn't do that but i don't know if maybe because i used stock mounting location's it's causing to kick over. So, my question here is if i used like a early classic's deluxe track bar that relocates it from on top of the diff. down to the passenger side trailing arm will this prevent so much swing versus it going to the center of the rear end?

daverod · 07-03-2009, 08:48 AM

I'm no expert, but I think the bar has to be centered on the diff. if you want the rear end to stay centered while you move it up and down. You're most likely going to have to fork out $500 for a Watts link.

Or a 4 link. I could be wrong. It would be the first time though.

Search Watts link .

**ChiefRocka** · 07-03-2009, 08:59 AM

Well, you want the bar to be level at about half travel....but like he said Watts is the ONLY way to go !!

Check out the simple one I built for Richs '67...link in my signature...Not sure what page though...

protrash64 · 07-03-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69chevy1

Hey fellas i have ran into a little problem with my rear set up. I am in the middle of the process of bagging my 66' swb fleetside. I have a kp step notch with a 4" block under my rear end to fill in the gap. I made my own adjustable pan hard bar longer then stock to compensate for the drop but when i lift the truck up my rear end moves almost 6". I made it long so it wouldn't do that but i don't know if maybe because i used stock mounting location's it's causing to kick over. So, my question here is if i used like a early classic's deluxe track bar that relocates it from on top of the diff. down to the passenger side trailing arm will this prevent so much swing versus it going to the center of the rear end?

On my bagged 'burb, I used a roughly 3' panhard.....it was adjustable and I ended up turning it all the way down (shortest it could go). My truck is not notched, so it does not have the extreme angles that you are dealing with. The Early Classic bar is longer making a larger radius and therefore reducing the side to side movement.

Another suggestion is if your ride hite is extremely low, you mite try to raise/fab a new panhard mount higher on your frame. The object being to get the bar close to level at mid-travel, for instance, or ride hite. This would help your issue also.

The Watt's will cure your problem for sure.

SCOTI · 07-03-2009, 11:14 AM

The longer the bar, the less noticeable the side shift will be on extreme rear suspension travel.

You need a long bar that runs from the drivers side OE frame mount over to the pass side trailing arm. Set it so that the rear housing is centered @ ride height. If you want it centered all the time, go w/a Watts.

69chevy1 · 07-03-2009, 02:39 PM

Right on thanks fellas for all the info. I think i'm gonna end up making a wish bone 3 link set up tho. I can't afford spending $500.00 on a watts sets up right now this is kinda of a budget build fro me, the rest of my money goes to my baby my chopped 54 coupe.

daverod · 07-03-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69chevy1

Right on thanks fellas for all the info. I think i'm gonna end up making a wish bone 3 link set up tho. I can't afford spending $500.00 on a watts sets up right now this is kinda of a budget build fro me, the rest of my money goes to my baby my chopped 54 coupe.

Got any pics? Of the wishbone not the baby. I know how you new fathers are.

Ok some of the baby would be ok too.

Strodder · 07-03-2009, 10:10 PM

Install a triangle 4-link. No need for a pan hard bar, or watts link.
is one is from KP Components About $399

Or this one is from Airbagit.com. It's a little cheaper than KP's

ruffrida2005 · 07-04-2009, 12:24 AM

With a pan hard your always going to have the axle move from one side to the other. Only way around is to use a Watts link, 4 Link or 3 link using a wishbone!

protrash64 · 07-05-2009, 12:17 AM

I'm adding to this thread for info. If you dont have a Speedway catalog, get one....or visit their site. They do mostly rod stuff, but have tons of things that could be fabbed on and modded to work on our trucks.

How about a simple Watts Link for 70 dollars?

SpeedwayMotors.com

Strodder · 07-05-2009, 10:18 AM

That's a good price. I order from them all the time.

protrash64 · 07-05-2009, 11:26 AM

Thats what I thought, too. Seems like people arent afraid to innovate so you could add some pieces and have a workable solution for some of the suspension issues people get into.

69chevy1 · 07-05-2009, 12:53 PM

Thanks alot guys for this great info. I think i might just have to fork out some chip's and do away with the stock trailing arm set up and just 4 link it.

ruffrida2005 · 07-05-2009, 08:58 PM

Does this Watts link fit our frames?

Strodder · 07-05-2009, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Does this Watts link fit our frames?

It should.

protrash64 · 07-05-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Does this Watts link fit our frames?

It's a generic kit.......catalog says good for frames '46'' or less'. They show it attached to the top of the pumpkin in their illustration, but it would'nt be too hard to make a different mount. See if K/P Components sells their mount seperately?

Just thought it mite get some brainstorming ideas going.....I wouldnt buy a 500 dollar Watts link.

Strodder · 07-05-2009, 09:16 PM

I think you guys should use a triangle 4 link. It will end all your problems. Screw that Watts link. I put 20" wheels on a lot of truck, and used the triangle 4 link,s Wheels never rubbed on the sides and still laid frame, plus blew sparks while driving. Keep it simple.

daverod · 07-06-2009, 09:07 AM

"Screw that Watts link". That's what I like about you Strodder you're just so damn down the earth.

I'm thinking that's the way to go.

Thanks for the link Trash.

SCOTI · 07-06-2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strodder

I think you guys should use a triangle 4 link. It will end all your problems. Screw that Watts link..... Keep it simple.

While it might be a better choice than incorporating a Watts set-up, I'm not so sure installing a Triangulated 4-bar from scratch is easier than correctly installing a PHB where there was one already installed.

Keeping it simple is just that: Figure out why there's an issue w/the current set-up. There's a bunch of rides running around w/a PHB that aren't experiencing "almost 6" of movement".

Strodder · 07-06-2009, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

While it might be a better choice than incorporating a Watts set-up, I'm not so sure installing a Triangulated 4-bar from scratch is easier than correctly installing a PHB where there was one already installed.

Keeping it simple is just that: Figure out why there's an issue w/the current set-up. There's a bunch of rides running around w/a PHB that aren't experiencing "almost 6" of movement".

I agree if you already have a 4 link, and want to fix the problem. The Watts Link is the way to go. But only if your going to have a lot of travel. For 6" of travel (up & Down) the pan hard bar works OK. If set up correctly. Wheel back spacing is also an important factor.

ruffrida2005 · 07-09-2009, 10:31 PM

Check out this link I found today. http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/watts.html real good price and diffrent styles to look through!

70 Suburban · 07-09-2009, 10:48 PM

for the time and money just go watts. you can build it or buy a simple version with little fab. and have no problems with future plans

ruffrida2005 · 07-09-2009, 10:53 PM

Hey guys sorry about the link, but i was just told by twistedminis that the company screwed a lot of people and their watts link isn't designed correctly! Check him out if you haven't he's building on now but needs the lenght of the cast on the axle so he knows how long to make the axle link for it!

SCOTI · 07-09-2009, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Hey guys sorry about the link, but i was just told by twistedminis that the company screwed a lot of people and their watts link isn't designed correctly! Check him out if you haven't he's building on now but needs the lenght of the cast on the axle so he knows how long to make the axle link for it!

I've read about past problems @ BarnYardCustoms . . .....

70 Suburban · 07-09-2009, 11:00 PM

i made my own for the 31 model a. most of the stuff can be had from jeggs

07-03-2009, 02:46 AM	#1
69chevy1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Perris Ca Posts: 71	Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Hey fellas i have ran into a little problem with my rear set up. I am in the middle of the process of bagging my 66' swb fleetside. I have a kp step notch with a 4" block under my rear end to fill in the gap. I made my own adjustable pan hard bar longer then stock to compensate for the drop but when i lift the truck up my rear end moves almost 6". I made it long so it wouldn't do that but i don't know if maybe because i used stock mounting location's it's causing to kick over. So, my question here is if i used like a early classic's deluxe track bar that relocates it from on top of the diff. down to the passenger side trailing arm will this prevent so much swing versus it going to the center of the rear end?

07-03-2009, 08:48 AM	#2
daverod SSN 706 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Pocatello Idaho Posts: 3,821	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! I'm no expert, but I think the bar has to be centered on the diff. if you want the rear end to stay centered while you move it up and down. You're most likely going to have to fork out $500 for a Watts link. Or a 4 link. I could be wrong. It would be the first time though. Search Watts link . Last edited by daverod; 07-03-2009 at 03:43 PM.

07-03-2009, 08:59 AM	#3
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,150	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Well, you want the bar to be level at about half travel....but like he said Watts is the ONLY way to go !! Check out the simple one I built for Richs '67...link in my signature...Not sure what page though... __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

07-03-2009, 11:14 AM	#5
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,072	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! The longer the bar, the less noticeable the side shift will be on extreme rear suspension travel. You need a long bar that runs from the drivers side OE frame mount over to the pass side trailing arm. Set it so that the rear housing is centered @ ride height. If you want it centered all the time, go w/a Watts. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

07-03-2009, 02:39 PM	#6
69chevy1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Perris Ca Posts: 71	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Right on thanks fellas for all the info. I think i'm gonna end up making a wish bone 3 link set up tho. I can't afford spending $500.00 on a watts sets up right now this is kinda of a budget build fro me, the rest of my money goes to my baby my chopped 54 coupe.

07-03-2009, 10:10 PM	#8
Strodder Daring to be Different Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Hesperia, Ca Posts: 4,499	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Install a triangle 4-link. No need for a pan hard bar, or watts link. is one is from KP Components About $399 Or this one is from Airbagit.com. It's a little cheaper than KP's __________________ *Dennis* Check out my 65/73 Cheap Build Thread. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=327644 *KUSTOM RIDES* FACE BOOK PAGE: https://www.facebook.com/groups/291198124258863/ 1965 C-10 Short Bed 350/700r4 2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 2016 Honda Accord w/ 18" rims 2007 Honda Goldwing Trike w/ NAVI 2001 Yamaha Roadstar Indian look alike "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "...WOW!...what an amazing ride!" Live Life Passionately!!! [/COLOR] *I AM WE TODD IT, I AM SOFA KING WE TODD IT* Last edited by Strodder; 07-03-2009 at 10:12 PM.

07-04-2009, 12:24 AM	#9
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! With a pan hard your always going to have the axle move from one side to the other. Only way around is to use a Watts link, 4 Link or 3 link using a wishbone! __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-05-2009, 12:17 AM	#10
protrash64 Resistance is Futile Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Mesa,Arizona Posts: 3,520	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! I'm adding to this thread for info. If you dont have a Speedway catalog, get one....or visit their site. They do mostly rod stuff, but have tons of things that could be fabbed on and modded to work on our trucks. How about a simple Watts Link for 70 dollars? SpeedwayMotors.com __________________ 64 CHEVY PICK-UP > http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...otrash+re-hash 64 CARRYALL >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1964+suburban 66 LB >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427852 STRENGTH/DETERMINATION/MERCILESS/FOREVER .......posted via stationary device

07-05-2009, 10:18 AM	#11
Strodder Daring to be Different Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Hesperia, Ca Posts: 4,499	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! That's a good price. I order from them all the time. __________________ *Dennis* Check out my 65/73 Cheap Build Thread. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=327644 *KUSTOM RIDES* FACE BOOK PAGE: https://www.facebook.com/groups/291198124258863/ 1965 C-10 Short Bed 350/700r4 2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 2016 Honda Accord w/ 18" rims 2007 Honda Goldwing Trike w/ NAVI 2001 Yamaha Roadstar Indian look alike "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "...WOW!...what an amazing ride!" Live Life Passionately!!! [/COLOR] *I AM WE TODD IT, I AM SOFA KING WE TODD IT* Last edited by Strodder; 07-05-2009 at 10:19 AM.

07-05-2009, 11:26 AM	#12
protrash64 Resistance is Futile Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Mesa,Arizona Posts: 3,520	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Thats what I thought, too. Seems like people arent afraid to innovate so you could add some pieces and have a workable solution for some of the suspension issues people get into. __________________ 64 CHEVY PICK-UP > http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...otrash+re-hash 64 CARRYALL >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1964+suburban 66 LB >http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427852 STRENGTH/DETERMINATION/MERCILESS/FOREVER .......posted via stationary device

07-05-2009, 12:53 PM	#13
69chevy1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Perris Ca Posts: 71	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Thanks alot guys for this great info. I think i might just have to fork out some chip's and do away with the stock trailing arm set up and just 4 link it.

07-05-2009, 08:58 PM	#14
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Does this Watts link fit our frames? __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-05-2009, 09:16 PM	#17
Strodder Daring to be Different Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Hesperia, Ca Posts: 4,499	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! I think you guys should use a triangle 4 link. It will end all your problems. Screw that Watts link. I put 20" wheels on a lot of truck, and used the triangle 4 link,s Wheels never rubbed on the sides and still laid frame, plus blew sparks while driving. Keep it simple. __________________ *Dennis* Check out my 65/73 Cheap Build Thread. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=327644 *KUSTOM RIDES* FACE BOOK PAGE: https://www.facebook.com/groups/291198124258863/ 1965 C-10 Short Bed 350/700r4 2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 2016 Honda Accord w/ 18" rims 2007 Honda Goldwing Trike w/ NAVI 2001 Yamaha Roadstar Indian look alike "Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "...WOW!...what an amazing ride!" Live Life Passionately!!! [/COLOR] *I AM WE TODD IT, I AM SOFA KING WE TODD IT* Last edited by Strodder; 07-05-2009 at 09:16 PM.

07-06-2009, 09:07 AM	#18
daverod SSN 706 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Pocatello Idaho Posts: 3,821	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! "Screw that Watts link". That's what I like about you Strodder you're just so damn down the earth. I'm thinking that's the way to go. Thanks for the link Trash. __________________ Daverods 64 C10 Daily driver 292 3 speed "Driver" Daverods 66 Build C10 Bags 350/350(On Hold) Daverods 52 Build 3100 S10 chassis,Bags, 350/700r4 "Click it" Last edited by daverod; 07-06-2009 at 09:10 AM.

07-09-2009, 10:31 PM	#21
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Check out this link I found today. http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/watts.html real good price and diffrent styles to look through! __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759



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07-09-2009, 10:48 PM	#22
70 Suburban Rods Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bryan, TX Posts: 1,398	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! for the time and money just go watts. you can build it or buy a simple version with little fab. and have no problems with future plans __________________ Just keepin it simple. 1965 C-10 Ext cab build. 350??(Does it count at 2 truck if I had to cut one up?) 1966 C-10 lwb 283 auto 1970 Suburban in pieces 1971 Blazer 4wd....restore someday. all factory CST 1972 Blazer 4wd parts truck still a roller 1972 GMC Sierra Grandee 1998 Chevy ext driver. 2005 F**D the wife drive...(cant fix women)

07-09-2009, 10:53 PM	#23
ruffrida2005 Member of the longbed union. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Killeen, Tx Posts: 2,158	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! Hey guys sorry about the link, but i was just told by twistedminis that the company screwed a lot of people and their watts link isn't designed correctly! Check him out if you haven't he's building on now but needs the lenght of the cast on the axle so he knows how long to make the axle link for it! __________________ Paul 88 GMC Crew Cab dually, 454/T400 64 LWB 400 HP 350/350T Bagged, under construction! Sold most of it! 92 S10 Iron Duke 5 speed, 5/7 drop for now. soon to be bagged. Sold http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post4637759

07-09-2009, 11:00 PM	#25
70 Suburban Rods Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Bryan, TX Posts: 1,398	Re: Need help on pan hard bar.... Please !!! i made my own for the 31 model a. most of the stuff can be had from jeggs __________________ Just keepin it simple. 1965 C-10 Ext cab build. 350??(Does it count at 2 truck if I had to cut one up?) 1966 C-10 lwb 283 auto 1970 Suburban in pieces 1971 Blazer 4wd....restore someday. all factory CST 1972 Blazer 4wd parts truck still a roller 1972 GMC Sierra Grandee 1998 Chevy ext driver. 2005 F**D the wife drive...(cant fix women)

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