1954 3100 sleeper chassis parts identification help!

[hdhracerx]

I love crawling under my truck and getting to know it. IDing the components so I can get the right part and plan my mods properly seems to be the next logical next step.

PO says Pinto front end and 12 bolt rear. Front has relatively small discs and rear has big finned drums. Master cylinder is stock and the same # apparently used on 1 tons until 59 or 60. Seems solid - had some gunk in it but I stripped it and cleaned it well. I also picked up the last rebuild kit from the local parts supplier and plan to do my first rebuild of a master cylinder. Broke a line too that had corroded, so I've got a section of new line to bend as well. Looking forward to the satisfaction of a firm brake pedal!

I have no experience with ID for a pinto/M2 front end or a 12 bolt rear. Did a few searches on a variety of sites, but came up empty so far. On the other hand I know there's folks here who know all this stuff cold. Did a search on the rear and after much brushing and cleaning last night came away with no #s on the tube as I was directed I would find, not to mention the fact that it appears to be a 10 bolt to my untrained eye. If it is a 10 bolt, is there a simple way to determine ratio? I'll be pulling the cover and refreshing the fluid and gasket, so I (think) can check gear ratio with a bit of counting and math, but would be helpful to have an idea as to what it actually is.


Also, have this 150$ "running good" 283 I plan to refresh with mild thumpr cam, valve job, and timing cover/oil pump. Plan is to pull the 305 and replace it. Engine came with carb riser and Holley of unknown size and origin. Would be nice to use it if appropriate as it worked well before supposedly. Any help id'ing these pieces would be very welcome too! Can I just measure the valve diameter to determine size?

[hdhracerx]

Engine / Head pics

heads have # 37958966 and 1244 on them. Big GM17 also.

[Atomsplitter]

Without seeing the crossmember and upper a-arm it's hard to tell if this is an original Pinto/Mustang front end or an earlier aftermarket IFS. Do you have 4 or 5 bolts hubs?
Your lower a-arms are the early narrow style with the strut rod connecting it to the frame. I too have an early model aftermarket IFS (I still don't know the make) and the only difference between mine and yours is the strut rod on mine bolts to the lower control arm and the other end is mounted to the frame with a bushing but my bushing is inline with the frame. Any original MII IFS's I've seen do not have the bushing at the frame, they use a rubber grommet at the frame to mount the strut rod. There are a few Mustang II sites on the internet that may have some information on these early suspensions.
I can take some pictures of mine but I don't think they'll help identify where yours is from.

[Bob@ProAuto]

I can verify that it is a stock factory 74'-78' Mustang II or 74'-80' Pinto/Bobcat. All of the suspension, brakes and sway bar look stock. It appears to have the stock sized 9" rotors, but I obviously can't tell if they are the original 4-lug or the aftermarket 5-lug.

[bretcopsey]

A quick glance at that rear looks like a 8.5 ten bolt. Not quite as strong as a 12 bolt, but close enough for the big price difference. Many guys will upgrade from the smaller 8.2 10 bolts in first gen Camaros etc. to the later 8.5 ten bolt rearend.

Click here for probably more than you ever wanted to know:

http://www.novaresource.org/axle.htm

[sn33kyp3t3]

Agreed w/ bretcopsey.

Without any other info, that looks exactly like my '79 Firebird 10 bolt. The serial number would help you identify the ratio, but that doesn't guarantee what might actually be in it.

A sure fire way to check is: Jack up the rear, put it in neutral, mark the drive shaft at some point and turn the tire while you count the number of times the drive shaft turns to turn the wheel one full revolution.

Ex: If the shaft turns approx. 3 1/3 turns you probably have a 3:42 gear set.

But if you are going to open it up, you should find an etched ratio on the side of the ring gear, or you could count the pinion teeth (would be harder to keep track of) and the ring teeth then divide.

[hdhracerx]

Thanks, guys!!

Appreciate the info and the link. Front wheels are 5 lug. I should be close enough now to get some service parts for it as needed.

On the rear, ditto! I'll see what the ring gear says if anything, and I really like the driveshaft to wheel rotation benchmark. Cool.

Itchin to drive it. Hopefully my master rebuild kit'll show up today.

hdh

[Atomsplitter]

I haven't run into this yet but what do you ask for if you want new front brake pads or rotors? Are they a common Chevy part like shoes/rotors off a Caprice or Impala? I have a similar MII IFS that I don't know who fabricated with 5 bolt spindles (I was told it may be an older Fatman Fabrications unit).

[sn33kyp3t3]

Originally Posted by Atomsplitter

I haven't run into this yet but what do you ask for if you want new front brake pads or rotors? Are they a common Chevy part like shoes/rotors off a Caprice or Impala? I have a similar MII IFS that I don't know who fabricated with 5 bolt spindles (I was told it may be an older Fatman Fabrications unit).

Depends on your kit, most full size GM cars use standard pads, measure your rotors, then find a car with the same size rotors, again 11" rotors are pretty common.

Take your pads to the parts counter and ask to see the pads for a Caprice, Monte Carlo etc they should be the same.