Anyone ever had brake drag after changing rotors and pads???

[kxnomore]

I finally saved up for new rotors and pads, but now the brakes are dragging when the wheels are jacked up. You can't feel it while driving, but when I jack up the front tires, there is definitely brake drag. The kind where the wheel stops the instant you let go after spinning it.

Anyone ever had this problem? They are Summit extreme performance drilled rotors and Hawk Performance pads. Oh, and it's a 72 C-20.

Thanks for any input in advance.

[Sammy]

Some say internal failure of the rubber brake hoses will cause this. If the calipers are good, next would be the rubber lines theroy says the internal failure doesn't allow the fluid flow for the cailpers to release completely.

[kxnomore]

That is definitely possible, as those were less than perfect for sure! When you are driving and release the brake they definitely back off though?

plus they were spinning freely with the old pads, and also, the rotors spun great before I put the caliper on. Now that I think of it, I did have to bottom the piston in the caliper, as the pads were SOOOO much thicker than what I had.

Maybe it's the piston sticking since I had to push it in so far? I really don't want to have to take it in so please keep the ideas coming.

[truckdude239]

changing calipers is not hard to do pretty easy job i would say replace the calipers and call ti a day

[mclairmo]

Check to be sure you did not twist the rubber brake hose when you reinstalled the caliper. If you twisted it, it will act like a one way check valve and will let fluid flow into the caliper when you step on the brakes but will not allow fluid to flow out of the caliper and back into the master cylinder when you release your foot. Also, if the caliper went on easily, then I don't see how the pads could be dragging unless the above happened. Maybe check to be sure that the new pads are not too thick compared to other new pads? However, if that was the case, I would assume you would have had trouble getting them over the rotor. Also, check to make sure your wheel bearings are not too tight. There is a specific procedure for setting the wheel bearings. It just also may be that you have to just give it some time and wait for the pads to wear a little, thereby clearancing themselves.

[kxnomore]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

Check to be sure you did not twist the rubber brake hose when you reinstalled the caliper. If you twisted it, it will act like a one way check valve and will let fluid flow into the caliper when you step on the brakes but will not allow fluid to flow out of the caliper and back into the master cylinder when you release your foot. Also, if the caliper went on easily, then I don't see how the pads could be dragging unless the above happened. Maybe check to be sure that the new pads are not too thick compared to other new pads? However, if that was the case, I would assume you would have had trouble getting them over the rotor. Also, check to make sure your wheel bearings are not too tight. There is a specific procedure for setting the wheel bearings. It just also may be that you have to just give it some time and wait for the pads to wear a little, thereby clearancing themselves.

All good suggestions. The rotors spun great before I put the pads on. I tried to follow the directions exactly with the bearings and everything, so I really hope that's not it.

The pads did not go on easily at all though. they were very tight, and I had to use a clamp to push the piston as far into the caliper as they would go. They were at least twice as thick as my old (very old) pads. And even then I had to hit them onto the rotor with my hand. So maybe they are just too thick, especially with the new rotor, which also was thicker than the one I had.

I just drove it around for about a half hour, and tried to barely use the brakes. When I got back they were not even warm to the touch, which to me says they can't be dragging that bad? so I will check them again tomorrow and if they still are dragging with the wheels in the air, I'll probably get new hoses and calipers, as that seems to be the only things that could cause a sudden drag. Searching on line they are not all that expensive, and are probably worth it for the safety if nothing else.

Thanks for all your help!!

[68C10withA396]

When the wheels are in the air and causing drag, is the truck running or off? Vacuum from power booster or small amount of air in the brake lines. Hell it could just need to be "broken in".

[prostreetC-10]

correct me if I'm wrong but when you put new pads in an old caliper, you have to compress the caliper piston so the new, thicker pad will fit in. When you are moving the piston back, you are hitting a bad or corroded part of the piston cylinder which is why you usually should replace calipers when doing a new brake job. I have re-used calipers many times but it is a roll of the dice because you HAVE to compress the piston back into the caliper to get the new, thicker pads in. 95% sure if you replace the calipers, the problem will go away.

[mclairmo]

I have never had a problem with calipers after compressing the pistons all thew way back into their bores. Also, if the bores are so corroded that the pistons stick, then you will likely get leaks, too. If the rotors do not get overly hot and you do not see any bluing, discoloration or scorching of the rotor face, then I would leave it as is and just wait for the pads to get worn down a tiny bit, thereby reducing the drag to a normal amount. Also, make sure the pads are seated all the way into the calipers and don't use any shims. It sounds like the rotor/pad installation is fine, you just have a tighter fit now because of the new rotors and pads. I don't see a safety issue unless the calipers are leaking.

[mclairmo]

I have never had a problem with calipers after compressing the pistons all thew way back into their bores. Also, if the bores are so corroded that the pistons stick, then you will likely get leaks, too. If the rotors do not get overly hot and you do not see any bluing, discoloration or scorching of the rotor face, then I would leave it as is and just wait for the pads to get worn down a tiny bit, thereby reducing the drag to a normal amount. Also, make sure the pads are seated all the way into the calipers and don't use any shims. It sounds like the rotor/pad installation is fine, you just have a tighter fit now because of the new rotors and pads. I don't see a safety issue unless the calipers are leaking. Also, replacing the calipers will not solve this problem. Most backyard mechanics do not replace calipers on every brake job. Shops sometimes do this just to make more money. Whether the caliper is new or old, you will still have a hard time getting the caliper over the rotor with those new thick pads and they will still drag as they do now. The only reasonable way to reduce the drag is to just use the brakes and wait.

[kxnomore]

Thanks Mclairmo, pro street, and 68 C-10.

The wheels drag with the engine off, but I didn't try to start it while jacked up, but I really think the MC and Booster are fine. They are both relatively new, and were good "Made in USA" stuff. Same with the bearings and seals. i only buy USA parts when safety is involved. Not to rant, but I absolutely despise Chinese metal.

I called Summit, by the way, and they swore up and down this is normal until I get a few miles on the brakes. So at this point knowing that the lines aren't twisted, the discs aren't getting hot, and the caliper pistons aren't scored, stuck, or leaking, I am going to drive it and enjoy my new brakes for a few weeks, and test it again later.

The brakes work awesome by the way. I would highly recommend these drilled rotors and pads. They're very progressive, and when you lean on the pedal even just a little bit, the truck stops on a dime. You could easily lock them up at any speed, too, if you needed to.

[68gmsee]

First thing you need to check is to make sure that every part that would restrict movement in and out is free of burrs and lubed properly. I'm talking about the mounting bolts and sliding surfaces of the brake pad mounts. I've even sanded these parts smooth because of surface rust.

The compressing of the pistons to bottom is perfectly normal. I use a large C-clamp for that. And, as mentioned above, unless the calipers are really old and are pitted due to moisture in the brake fluid or leaks, there's no need to replace them every pad replacement.

Lastly, the disc pads are designed to slightly rub along the surface of the rotors. What retracts them so they are not in contact is the vibration of the rotors when actually driving on the road. That's why the mounting sliding surfaces have to be smooth and lubed properly. And, as mentioned by 68c10 they may also need to be broken in and rough higher surfaces worn down. What you need to make sure is that the pads are not sticking and overheating the rotors.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I have never had a problem with calipers after compressing the pistons all thew way back into their bores. .

Then you haven't done brakes for a living. Granted, it's not that common but caliper pistons don't move like a motor. They inch there way forward so you can get stuff going on behind the piston that is not going to cause them to leak. Another thing that causes pistons to move back slightly is quite simply the lack of hydraulic pressure when your foot is off the brake. The pads do need to break in and will usually create their own clearance. You will know if you have a problem because it will continue to drag. Sounds like you are pretty much okay though.

[BluTrukker]

One other thing to mention is the pins/bolts that the caliper slides on. With your old pads they were only sliding on a small portion of the pin, the rest of the pin usually rusts. So when you put thicker pads on it now slides on the rusted part causing it to hang up. I drive little old beater cars to work, and I have had this issue several times. Now I just pull the pins out and shine them up and put plenty of lube on them.

[johnechi]

Change out your front lines, rebleed the system, your caliper pistons should retract back fine. You should not have the type of brake pad drag you are experiencing. The brake rotors will get excessively hot and your pedal will get mushy.

[chipflyer]

Very common for the brake hose to swell shut on one side. I had one once that I couldn't get the right side to bleed. I unhooked the line from the caliper, stomped the brake and no fluid would come out, totally plugged. That was the cause of the truck darting to the left when the brakes were applied as the left front was doing all the work.

Jeff

[Shyguy]

A lot of fine people have given good respones.

A slight drag is normal.

If the hoses have not been changed I would replace them.

Cleaning and lubing all the moving parts of the caliper attachment is important also.

Danny

[14U2NV]

X2 on the hoses. Had a 87 Grand National that we ahd major problems with brakes. We replaced everything and still had the issue until we changed the hoses.

Chad