What to expect from xmember chop.

[jmedero]

I have dropped my xmember off today to get it sectioned 1.5 inches. I am getting 3 inch drop spindles and dominator 2600 bags up front. 29 inch tall tire and wheel combo...... How low should I be? I know o will find out when I put it back together just wondering.
Thanks

[jlaird]

the bottom of your crossmember will be an inch or two off the ground. Be prepared to have interference issues with your inner tie rod ends.

[Frizzle Fry]

So can't you just notch the frame for the inner tie-rods? Or do they interfere with something else?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

So can't you just notch the frame for the inner tie-rods? Or do they interfere with something else?

The interference is @ the c.member near the lower a-arm u-bolts so you can only 'shave' so much.

[jmedero]

I was talking to a guy who builds circle track frames and susp parts. He said to put a rack on it and flip the ends. I don't know if it will work but he said it would, duno I am not a fabber. Any ideas?

[jmedero]

I mean plenty of people have done this. Is the 3 inch drop spindle the problem?

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by jmedero

I mean plenty of people have done this. Is the 3 inch drop spindle the problem?

No, we told you what the problem is. If you don't want any interference problems, only do a 1 1/8 section and you will be home free. Good luck with it. Let us know if you have any other questions.

[NZSquare]

theres psots on here somewhere where the Twisted Minis guy says you can machine the bore in the spindle to flip the tie rods onto the bottom side of the spindle, so it should clear. This is what I was planning on doing.
You'd have to sleeve the spindle to retain the taper but it makes sense.

[Frizzle Fry]

I'm having a hard time picturing this problem. Since everything moves up the same amount... I know you guys have done this so I don't doubt, just need help visualizing it (read: pics ).

[jlaird]

Originally Posted by NZSquare

theres psots on here somewhere where the Twisted Minis guy says you can machine the bore in the spindle to flip the tie rods onto the bottom side of the spindle, so it should clear. This is what I was planning on doing.
You'd have to sleeve the spindle to retain the taper but it makes sense.

The outer tie rod end is not the problem, its the inner.

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I'm having a hard time picturing this problem. Since everything moves up the same amount... I know you guys have done this so I don't doubt, just need help visualizing it (read: pics ).

Frizzle, look at it this way, the steering linkage is in a fix position as it bolts to the frame and the steering box. So all that stays in its factory position as you raise the crossmember relative to the frame.

[NZSquare]

Originally Posted by jlaird

The outer tie rod end is not the problem, its the inner.



Frizzle, look at it this way, the steering linkage is in a fix position as it bolts to the frame and the steering box. So all that stays in its factory position as you raise the crossmember relative to the frame.

Could the inner tie rod mount bore be machined so it sat on the forward side ? Maybe thats what was meant initially and I misread it.

[N2TRUX]

Who has the pics? I know someone posted pics of the interference issue. Anyone remember the post, or save the pics?

[jmedero]

Thanks for the help. I rember the twisted mini post just could not remember who had posted it. Part of my confussion is that alot of diff amounts have been taken off of the xmember. I have seen post with one to five inches. Thanks again for the kind and positive replys.

[Frizzle Fry]

Ah, I thought the idea was to move them up on the frame the same amount as the xmember chop.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Ah, I thought the idea was to move them up on the frame the same amount as the xmember chop.

If you want to do it right, then yes.

[SCOTI]

I had put pics up before of where (how much) material I had to remove. I'm @ work @ the moment so I'll look later tonight & see if I still have them on the home computer.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Ah, I thought the idea was to move them up on the frame the same amount as the xmember chop.

If you're using the CaptKaos method, you're actually pancaking the xmember... so just sectioning 1.nn" out of the middle. This keeps the engine mounts at their original location, but allows the bottom and outboard components to move up by that amount. However, since we're dealing with a center link that's tied to the frame at both the Pittman and idler arm locations, some geometry changes naturally occur. The effect is that the tie rod assembly moves much closer to the leading edge of the xmember. While my CaptKaos-made 1.5" xmember did not experience significant clearance issues, several others have indicated real problems with this much of a cut, and have recommended 1.25" or even 1" as the max.

[XXL]

CaptKaos method step-by-step...

[XXL]

and all ART'd up...

[XXL]

And the clearance issue area...

[SCOTI]

That's also how mine was done. I was suprised that XXL's didn't need as much material removed as mine. I wound up 'shimming' mine back up for a total of 1 1/8" notch. I just wasn't comfortable removing any more material.

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks for the pics XXL. It still seems like moving the the box and idler up the same mount would avoid that issue. Might need to notch the frame though...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks for the pics XXL. It still seems like moving the the box and idler up the same mount would avoid that issue. Might need to notch the frame though...

Yes, moving up the box and idler would solve this problem (not sure what new problems it might create).

[smashingchuck]

Here's a pic of my steering. Everything is raised 1.5".

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

Here's a pic of my steering. Everything is raised 1.5".

That's what I'm talkin 'bout